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Author Topic:   Loose rail
whalertim posted 05-29-2001 08:00 AM ET (US)   Profile for whalertim   Send Email to whalertim  
I know this is a subject that has been covered in the past. I have a loose rail. The screws are stripped out. What is the best way to repair this problem?
Arch Autenreith posted 05-29-2001 11:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
I just got back from the Chesapeake an horrendous weather on Saturday, at least. I took off the bow railing on the Montauk for the first time ever and I have to say I will NEVER put it back on again for my use. I don't know if you have a Montauk, as I do, but if you do try removing it first. I can now step on and off without doing the high-step over the railing, fingers can't get caught between it and anything else, doesn't rattle anymore and now the bimini top doesn't rest in front of the forward verticle rail and over the forward corner non-skid pads. Single best suggestion others' here offered on this subject. Where the existing screws were I just countersunk the heads. Good luck.
Tom W Clark posted 05-29-2001 11:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     

I heartily agree with Arch's thoughts on the Montauk bow rail. Both of my Montauks did not have bow rails. The first one I bought new and I was adamant about the lack of bow rail and screw holes, so the dealer order a bare hull and essentially built a Montauk for me at the dealership. The second one I bought used and the first thing I did was remove the rail and patch the screw holes (18 on the inside, 8 on the outside) with gelcoat patch paste. This is where I learned that skill and it is quite easy.

As to repairing stripped out screw holes I really like dfmcintyre's advice on this subject (related here in a slightly different context):

stagalv posted 05-29-2001 12:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for stagalv  Send Email to stagalv     
I third that. I just restored a Montauk and left the bow rails off because they get in the way of fishing and they rattle.
whalertim posted 05-29-2001 01:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalertim  Send Email to whalertim     
I thought about taking the rails off, however I am thinking about putting it up for sale next month. I really need to fix the rails I guess. I want to move up to an 18 outrage sometime. Selling my Montauk will be hard for me. I really enjoy it.
Arch Autenreith posted 05-29-2001 01:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
I see your point. I'm thinking the same thing about an Outrage. Can't decide if I want to give the Montauk to my son however(to destroy, basically). I have a lot of time and love into the Montauk and him and his friends don't share (or have) the ability to keep her going like I do. But who knows? He may make a lier out of me (again). Did you see that '82 18OR on ebay? $9K so far I think. With the price of gas continuing to rise though the 'ol Montauk will be easier on the wallet with a 50 4-stroke than a 150 on the Outrage. Always trade-offs I guess........
whalertim posted 05-29-2001 01:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalertim  Send Email to whalertim     
Well, I let my son take her out for the first time this past weekend. He and one of his friends went out into the ICW. I knew she would look after my son and his friend if they looked after her. About 2 hours later thay came home. All thay could talk about was the fun they had. After a while I was at the dock,(No-one around)I thanked her for looking after the boys and bringing them home safe.
(Like I said, IT will be hard to let her go)
Hank posted 05-29-2001 02:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for Hank  Send Email to Hank     
In answer to your question about stripped threads on the screws holding your rail try a larger self tapping screw. I just had a similar problem with my bow rail. A larger diameter screw did the trick.
As for solving the problem by removing the rails I should like to say that I have personally had many situations where I was thankful that I could grab the bow rail to keep me from going overboard. I often fish from the forward platform at the edges of the ICW here in Palm Coast, FL. Some of the boaters going by have no concept of the effect of their wakes on smaller boats anchored in shallow water. A sudden lift of two or three feet while standing on the forward platform is reason enough for me to have a sturdy bow rail.
andygere posted 05-29-2001 06:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
I second the idea of retaining the bow rails. More than once they have prevented me from going overboard while casting from the bow. If you singlehand the boat on a regular basis, I think they are even more valuable. I suppose it depends where you use the boat and how you use it...I'm sure others will disagree.
TightPenny posted 06-12-2001 03:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for TightPenny  Send Email to TightPenny     
The fact that there are rails completely surrounding my 2000 Montauk is a great thing. I would never consider removing them.

Having the ability to lean or grab onto them all around the boat is a safety feature that I for one could not live without.

The problem I have had with the bow rail is that three of the screws installed by the factory snapped off. They were fixed by the dealer, who told me that they had vibrated loose.

I think they could have been overtorqued at the factory. I have noticed a lot of vibration hitting the bow rail in rough water. Has anyone else had this problem?

whalerron posted 06-14-2001 12:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     
I look at the bow rails as a necessity. Without them, the front 5 feet of the hull are useless. And, they have kept me from falling overboard more than once. When I dip for crabs, I stand up on the bow with my legs wrapped around those rails.

I would be interested in getting a set of bow rails from anyone who doesn't want theirs. (They would be for my brother's Whaler).

I fix all of my stripped screw holes the same way.

1) Drill out the hole with a 1/4 inch drill bit. Go only as deep as the screw is long.

2) Cut off a piece of 1/4 hardwood dowel that is slightly shorter than the hole you just drilled.

3) Put epoxy in the hole and on the dowel.

4) Push the dowel into the hole until it is flush with the fiberglass surface.

5) Let the epoxy harden and then redrill the hole.

This works like a champ and it also works great in any wood parts that are stripped out.


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