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  How/where do I install bilge pumps on my 82 22' outrage?

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Author Topic:   How/where do I install bilge pumps on my 82 22' outrage?
duckduckgoose posted 05-29-2001 05:29 PM ET (US)   Profile for duckduckgoose   Send Email to duckduckgoose  

I can't stay away from my "new" love. I am wondering how/where to put the pumps and run the hose and electric wires/switches. Do I need more than one? What size pump ? Manual switch or auto float switch? Also, the needle on my fuel guage goes nuts unless she is absolutely still. She has a 70 gal tank. The guage is fairly new. Is it the sending unit? How should I adree this problem?
thanks guys,
DDG
duckduckgoose posted 05-29-2001 05:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for duckduckgoose  Send Email to duckduckgoose     
Sorry, she is an 84 22' outrage
DDG
Peter posted 05-29-2001 08:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
DDG,

I would get a 1100 gph "automatic" pump by Rule. These don't require the use of a float switch. These pumps "sniff" the conditions every two and a half minutes by spinning the pump briefly and sensing the load. You could run directly to the battery with a fuse in between. However, you may want to create a circuit which includes a switch at the helm so that the pump can be operated manually. Wires can be run from the console, under the little deck to the vinyl access under the front part of the gunnel boards adjacent the console and then up under the gunnel board. On my Revenge 22, the pump is plumbed out with a flexible hose to a fitting in the gunnel. You may not have the fitting in the gunnel so you may want to run a flexible hose out over the transom. Not the most attactive way to do it but it doesn't require cutting a hole in the gunnel.

duckduckgoose posted 05-30-2001 12:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for duckduckgoose  Send Email to duckduckgoose     
Where do I install the pump? If I drill for the mounting how do I seal it? Also, can anyone help w/ the gas guage problem in my original post?
thanks,
DDG
jimh posted 05-30-2001 12:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
If you use the common RULE small centrifugal pump, you better mount the pump at the lowest point in the boat, and let it exhaust overboard with the least amount of rise.

Bilge pumps have two variables which affect their performance: lift and head.

LIFT is how high the pump is above the water, or how high the water must be sucked up to get to the pump input.

HEAD is how far the water must be raised above the pump exhaust.

The ratings you see for the small RULE pumps are all at zero lift and zero head.

I don't think those centrifugal pumps will operate at all with any lift, and they derate quickly with any head.

In the typical Whaler install, the pump sits in the bilge sump and the exhaust blows right out the side of the boat. The lift is zero and the head is about 6 inches, so the pump works pretty well.

Here is an article on bilge pump installation:
http://continuouswave.com/maintenance-logs/newBilgePump/

wildeone posted 05-30-2001 08:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for wildeone  Send Email to wildeone     
I just put a bilge pump in my 84 18 Outrage.
Used a Rule 1100 automatic, switchs on 2.5 min. to check for water. We had torrential rain last week and the boat was dry! Although the starting battery I hooked it up to was alittle weak.

Put the pump in your rear sump area, seal screw holes with silicone, run your wires from bilge pump directly to your battery with a 2.5 amp in line fuse on the pos. side.
Discharge hose can run up out of your sump over the transom, I atached mine with wire ties to the engine steering cables and it works great.
Only change I might make, would be to wire the pump to a deep cycle vs. the starting battery. I don't think the starting battery will take alot of discharges and recharges this summer.

Erick

kingfish posted 05-30-2001 09:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
ddg-

I have a '92 Outrage 22, and the bilge pump on mine is as follows:

There is a live well just forward of the cooler seat that parks in front of the center console. I believe that to be a common feature of 84's and 92's. The floor of that live well is the lowest accessable point of the boat, and in mine, there is a sump at the aft end of the livewell that was formed in with the express purpose of providing a spot for a pump. I installed a 900gph sureflo magnetic pump (impeller can lock up, and not burn the motor up)with an internal float switch, and it is plumbed with heavy duty flexible tubing to a thru-hull fitting on the starboard side above the water line, accessable from the inside of the boat by removing the cover opposite the starboard side of the console right where the hull narrows. 900 to 1100 gph pumps are where you want to be, and I understnd the smart switches work pretty well.

At the rear of the deck of my boat, right up against the motor well bulkhead, I have an in-floor bait well right behind the end of the gas tank with another pump in it. I understand that some 22's have a larger gas tank than mine (mine is about 80 gallons), and in those models the larger (longer) tank takes up the space where my bait well is. Anyway, on either side of my bait well, or either side of the rear of the gas tank on boats with the larger tank, there are two access pits (one each side) that have drain plugs in the bottom, and provide access for the cable tunnels. Those access pits drain into the bait well in my boat and so water that lands on the deck runs either into these pits and then into the bait well or directly into the baitwell, from which the secondary bilge pump can pump it out.

In either case (bait well or larger tank) the trick is to leave the drain plugs *out* of the access pits when not in use, as the flotation of the 22 is such that maybe a half-gallon or so of water is all that will come through the openings into the each of the pits and the boat stabilizes with the deck still dry. Rain water will drain out from the pits through the hull openings and the deck will remain above the water line. The 22 is truly self-bailing and self-draining so long as you keep water out of the forward live well, or pump out any that winds up there. Once you are under way, the small amount of water that has accumulated in the access pits will automatically drain out and you can re-install the plugs.

Hope this helps-

kingfish

Louie Kokinis posted 05-30-2001 10:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for Louie Kokinis    
DDG, try leaving the plug out. I've never used mine (as per the manual) and the boat never has more than a couple of inches in the bilge at rest. The boats positive floatation will drain the water on its own.

Louie

PS Great story

duckduckgoose posted 05-30-2001 11:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for duckduckgoose  Send Email to duckduckgoose     
Thanks,
I know just plead for help with my gas guage problem; if you guys read the original post it explains it. I truly appreciate this priceless information.
thanks,
DDG
lhg posted 05-30-2001 07:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I believe the factory bilge pump option for the 22 & 25's consisted of a 3 way switch at the console, (with special Whaler graphics, but basically by Rule), a Rule 1500GPH pump and a separate float switch. The standard white plastic thru hull fitting went through the side of the hull, where the foam is scooped out from the inside and a special interior recessed plastic cover installed. As an alternative to this, an extra long bronze thru hull by Perko could be used, and then the interior wall of the hull side would not have to be altered.

The Rule self contained automatic bilge pumps, with internal water level sensing instead of a float switch, have been mentioned. I have used these, and they have their good and bad points, so install one with care and knowledge of how they will work for you.

I would suggest to NEVER install one with out a switch to turn power on and off, since they cycle on every 2 minutes, then every 10 minutes, serching for water, even if the boat is in storage. Not good. With the switch you can shut off the power when pumping is not needed, or likely to be not needed.

The main drawback is that they run until the water is gone, but then won't come back on for at least 2 minutes. This is ridiculous, if water is still coming in, or your washdown is being used, cleaning fish, etc. Two minutes can be an eternity when water is coming up in the floor sump. The switch allows you to shut the cycle off, and re-start it instantly when you need it, in effect, running the pump manually. The simplicity of installation is appealing on these, cost is not, and they may not REALLY do what you need them to do. Understand how they work, then they may, or may not, make sense to you. They are better than a pure manually operated blige pump, but not as good as float switch pump, where you get instant response as needed, not every 2 1/2 minutes.

DIVE 1 posted 05-30-2001 09:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for DIVE 1    
DDG,
Your fuel gauge problem sounds like a loose wire. Check the gauge wires first since they are accessible. Next, disconnect the batteries and open the access cover for the fuel tank sending unit. Check the wires going to the unit. Then trace these wires to the next connection and make sure they are tight. Also check the wires for scuffs or abrasion that has rubbed through the insulation. If still no luck, remove the sending unit and check the wire connections. If everything checks out OK, I would replace the sending unit.
Jim

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