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Author Topic:   Float Switches
Lewis posted 06-07-2001 04:46 PM ET (US)   Profile for Lewis   Send Email to Lewis  
Just added two 1500 rules on my 25 and found out the hard way that float switches are a pain. The floor of the bilge is angled the same as the bottom of the hull anf if you mount your float switch front to back on one side or the other it has a tendancy to want to bind because it is leaning to one side. Insteaed, mount it so it points side to side with the hinge side as close to the bottom and center as possible. To do this you need to mount the switch independent of the pump (don't use the little clip provided)but clean the mounting area with a little acetone, seat the switch base in a dab of 4200 and attatch with the one mounting srew, of course drill a pilot and coat the threads with 4200. Another thing, use the HEAVY DUTY switch that rule offers. Lewis
jimh posted 06-08-2001 09:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I am not sure I would recommend mounting the float switch using an adhesive and one mounting screw.

The design of the RULE float switch allows for two mounting screws, but you must use care in fitting the screw that is located under the float mechanism.

This screw cannot be accessed with a screwdriver when the switch is in position. The makers of the switch have created a slot instead of a hole for this screw to retain the switch.

You have to install the screw first, tighten it to the proper height, then slide the switch slot under the screw. If you try to lift the float out of the way to tighten the screw you will break the float! You have to remove the switch to make adjustment to the height of the screw, then reinstall the switch.

The other mounting hole on the float switch is available for access and you can install the second mounting screw and tighten it without a problem.

As the bottom of the boat is sloping downward to the keel at this point, I would suggest you mount the switch with the float pivot outboard, the float inboard. This will permit the switch to activate sooner, i.e., with less water in the compartment.

The axis of the switch pivot should be inline with the keel, as Lewis mentioned, as this makes the switch able to open and close without a great deal of torque on its axis. In other words, the long dimension of the switch points toward the keel.

--jimh

jimh posted 06-08-2001 11:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I was thinking about this some more...

The float switch should definitely not be mounted with the hinge on the inboard or keel side. Since the hull is sloping downward to the keel, this would have the effect of putting the switch in a raised position.
The switch operates using a mercury switch, and thus if it is mounted with the hinge on the inboard side the effect is the same as raising the switch as far as the mercury is concerned. The pump might be running all the time.

--jimh

lhg posted 06-11-2001 06:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Outrage 25 Factory Bilge Pump installation:

I checked mine and here is how it was installed. The Rule float switch is located in the forward part of the sump, but in the level floor section (closest to the keel).
The switch is oriented front-to-back, with the "flapper" facing toward the transom. The Rule 1500GPH pump is immediately aft of the switch, also in the level portion of the sump. Since the boat generally slopes down to the transom when in the water, this would correctly orient the switch float facing downhill.

The 3 wire harness from the dash switch runs under the gunnel, and is not in the tunnel, except for the short direct run from the console over to the gunnel. In a Revenge, the gunnel would be used for the entire length of the wire leads.

jimh posted 06-11-2001 11:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Larry,

You said "gunnel". Was that a combination of gunwale + tunnel = gunnel? Which did you mean? I have been wondering if some yahoo ran the leads on my boat down the tunnel when they should have been run down the gunwales.

--jimh

andygere posted 06-12-2001 11:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Wouldn't a water sensing automatic bilge pump be a better solution? Is there a downside to these type of pumps compared to the traditional float switches? I've been thinking of changing out the manual pump in my Montauk (it's a pain to keep turning it on and off), and space in the stern sump is at a premium. Any thoughts?
lhg posted 06-12-2001 03:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Jim, please excuse my improper marine vocabulary! Where I used "gunnel" it should be "gunwales".

From what I can tell, knowing the configuration of the Revenge WT, I would say that your bilge pump wires should be run under the gunwales. That's where mine are on the 25.

Andy, see the Bilge pump reference thread in this section.

Peter posted 06-12-2001 04:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
About a month ago I added a Rule automatic in the transom well in my Revenge. It works great, it eliminated the problems I was having with the old float switch, and removed some clutter in the well. Samples every 2.5 minutes and, according to Rule, only has a 0.2A per day drain in the sample mode.
The Spelling Fairy posted 06-14-2001 12:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for The Spelling Fairy  Send Email to The Spelling Fairy     
Actually, gunnel or gunwale is correct. They are both pronounced the same.

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