Moderated Discussion Areas
  wood re-finish semco sealer

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   wood re-finish semco sealer
bmacauto posted 06-09-2001 10:39 PM ET (US)   Profile for bmacauto   Send Email to bmacauto  
All the teak on my 18' outrage has been finished with Semco teack sealer. I'd love to get rid of this, it looks like cedar. Should i use a teak cleaner or sanding, and what would you suggest for refinishing the gunnels, i was looking into sikkens products. Thanks for the help
Tom W Clark posted 06-10-2001 12:00 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     

I know I will get in trouble with some members of this forum but, for the love of God, don't use a teak cleaner! Chemicals bad. Sand paper and carbide good. I am a woodworker by trade and have owned three Whalers with teak. I have also used Te-Ka teak cleaner (twice, long ago). The two part cleaners provide quick results but at the expense of the wood itself, especially the soft wood. Even used correctly and gently they eat the soft grain out and leave the teak with pores and valleys that harbor dirt and accelerate the dirtying and deterioration of the wood in the future.

The best way to get rid of your current finish and prepare it for a new finish is to scrape and sand it down to bare wood. I have owned an 18 Outrage myself and refinished the teak twice during my ten years of ownership. Begin by removing as much hardware as possible. Remove the louvered doors from the console. Unscrew the teak trim pieces from the base of the console. Remove the stainless rub strakes from the gunwale boards as well as the hause pipes, rod holders and cleats.

I like to use Sandvik brand carbide scrapers to remove thick finishes that would likely clog up the sand paper. These are extremely good and sharp paint scrapers that are available at better paint stores and chandleries. Get the large and medium sizes both. For the louvers on the doors, use a furniture scraper which is a piece of steel which you square and hone to create a sharp edge. You will be able to get this into the gaps at an angle and remove much of the surface finish and soiled wood.

Sand paper will finish up the job. I used one of my belt sanders on the gunwale boards but I would caution you about using a belt sander unless you are good and familiar with the specific belt sander you are using. They can run amok in the hands of the inexperienced. A random orbital sander or palm sander will suffice for the smaller parts. If you have one or can rent one I wholeheartedly recommend the Fien brand detail sanders. They are great at getting into otherwise inaccessible places.

Once all the teak is sanded to about 150 grit, I recommend an oil finish. Specifically Daly's Sea-Fin Teak Oil. I have used this product for about thirteen years in my construction business and on my boats. I have to confess that it is a local product developed here in the Wallingford neighborhood of Seattle but it is now sold nation wide by West Marine. You just wipe it on! Actually on the first few coats use a disposable foam brush to lay it on thick, let it sit about twenty minutes then wipe off the excess. You can do as many or as few coats as you like. I consider three to be a minimum with not much of an improvement after six or seven coats. It is easy to maintain and renew by just wiping on additional coats and it does not mind if it gets a little wet before the oil film is fully dry.

Daly's Sea-Fin Teak Oil, as well as any other oil finish, is a maintenance type finish. You need to keep it up or the wood will gray out. It is perfectly OK to let the teak gray out if you like and you can still add more coats of oil to weathered teak to slow down the deterioration of the wood itself, but if you like to look of brightly finished wood you need to renew the oil finish regularly or, you might consider varnishing the teak instead. I myself don't care for varnished teak on the deck of a boat but there is nothing wrong with this approach.

bmacauto posted 06-10-2001 05:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for bmacauto  Send Email to bmacauto     
Thanks for the reply,
I had a 13' and when i got it the finish was in need of bad repair. I took the easy way out, and removed all the wood, and went to a friends wood shop with a surface planer. Took all the finish off in 20min of everything, started from scratch, and put on about 6 coats of a great gloss varnish(wich i can't remember the name of), turned out great, and wasn't worried about slipping on the bench seats because i was siting most of the time. Finish lasted 5 years so far with only light sanding and 1 coat per year. I love the gloss finish, and not to fond of staining. I know on my 18' outrage i can't varnish the gunnels, as people will be standing on them. What do you think of Sikkens? I heard that it looks like a varnish but isn't slick. I've read many posts about the good quailty of Sikkens, but have trouble finding descriptions or photos of finished work.
Kim posted 06-10-2001 05:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for Kim  Send Email to Kim     
brian sorry you dont like the semco sealer . they have about three difrent colors ?
I use it on my moutauk and will never go back to oil ever.
now if you use the boat a lot, and wash it every time . the sealer will disapate (s/p) in 6 months.then a light sanding , and use oil.
the reason I like semco is the ease of useing the product wipe on wipe off, well to put it on I use a spong on a stick. and if it gets on any thing you don't want it on it's very easy to cleen up !!! not like oil (sticky) yuk!
how long has it been on ?
ps yes stripers are not good for teak, I use them but after three times it's time to replace the teak. no bigie for me as I'm a carpenter. good luck !
Hank posted 06-10-2001 10:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for Hank  Send Email to Hank     
I have used Sikkens Cetol on the teak on my Montauk. I used it after trying Teak oil and having to refinish in a couple of months.
Whatever finish you use, follow Tom Clark's advice and don't bother with teak cleaners.
Sand, scrape or do whatever it takes to get to the bare wood, mechanically.

The Sikkens Cetol comes in satin and gloss finishes. I used the satin finish. The color tends to be be a warm golden color which I felt was attractive.

I finished all the teak on my Montauk by first removing it from the boat .According to the directions on the can the finish should be renewed once a year. The teak on my console doors and the RPS is still in fine condition after two years, but require renewal.Renewal consistes of cleaning the finish and adding a fresh coat. Unfortunately, I neglected the finish on the forward fish box cover too long and the finish is deteriorating (most exposure to Florida sun and rain). I shall have to scrape and sand it to bare wood and refinish with three coats. Requires 24 hours drying time between coats.

I felt that the maintenance requirements were far less than teak oil and worth the extra effort of application.Sikkens material seems to be a compromise between oil and varnish.


jimh posted 06-11-2001 12:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
With the rotten weather we've been having this spring, refinishing some teak components was about the only thing I could do as far as "working on the boat" was concerned for the past several weeks.

I tried the AMAZON products teak finish. I'd seen the results on other Whalers from using this method, and I liked the look.

Their products come with some of the worst instructions I've ever seen. The instructions are not clearly written, simple English. I followed them as best I could. Here is what I did:

First step, wet the wood and surrounding area.

Next, apply the "One Step" CLEANER product and scrub. Use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse with water.

Repeat if necessary. Let dry overnight.

[I did notice that this tended to soften the wood. On follow up pieces I tried to limit the amount of water used to a minimum.]

[AMAZON does not mention this next step but I was advised by an old hand to add it.]

Second, sand surface with "fine" sandpaper and an orbital sander. The wood is soft and comes off rapidly. I was thinking about collecting the sawdust for use in thickening epoxy for some repairs I had to make, too.

I removed the hardware, too.

After sanding, vacuum dust off surface or wipe with tack rag.

[Now back to AMAZON's directions.]

Third, apply coat of TEAK PREP product. This is supposed to drive out any remaining moisture in the wood (the cause of dark streaks) and to neutralize any residue from the CLEANER. Let this dry overnight.

Fourth, mix TEAK PREP and TEAK OIL 1:3 and apply coat. Let dry 5-6 hours.

Repeat another application of TEAK PREP/TEAK OIL mixture. Let dry 5-6 hours.

Finally, apply coat of TEAK OIL full strength. Let dry 5-6 hours. Repeat if desired.

The results are quite nice, but I think the biggest improvement in the wood came from the sanding. Sanding really gave the wood a nice renewed surface. There was still some dark threads in the grain, but I think this might be a bit natural.

The application of the first coat of TEAK PREP really gave the wood a wonderful appearance. I was very impressed with how fine this cabinet door looked! It was furniture grade now!

Of course, as the oil is absorbed the wood loses the gloss. Each coat gets the wood a bit darker, too. I was using the GOLDEN TEAK OIL product; there are two other grades.

I have about 4-5 coats of oil on the cabinet. It looks great.

I'll let you know how the finish holds up at the end of the summer.


Chesapeake posted 06-11-2001 12:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     

Do you need to use teak prep with new teak as well? I have some Amazon cleaner and Golden oil, but not the prep.

Your thoughts?


bmacauto posted 06-11-2001 04:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for bmacauto  Send Email to bmacauto     
I think i decided to strip all the finish at the end of the season via sanding with a belt sander, then applying sikkens cetol gloss on everything, and adding a special step plate for the gunnel. I love the look of the gloss, and was told the sikkens was very easy, 2 full coats of the stain, and 1 coat of the gloss, no sanding, no prep. Thanks for all the suggestions, How hard is it to remove the gunnals, ( i noticed caulking)
whalertim posted 06-29-2001 08:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalertim  Send Email to whalertim     
Well here goes! I am in the process of re-doing all my wood on my Montauk. I Have almost all the wood off at this time. Jim and others have alot of great ideas of refinishing, so I am going to give it a try myself. If any other ideas cross the great minds of whaler owners PLEASE advise. I think I am looking for a satin finish.
Tim NC
NWflyfisher posted 06-29-2001 10:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for NWflyfisher    
Man, I'll get blasted for this.

Recently bought a '78 Montauk. Teak was in poor condition - I repeat POOR. While researching how to restore, ran into a guy with a 70-something Choy Lee Trawler who was working on his wood. Twenty questions ensued since the wood on that trawler was absolutely beautiful. His advice:

Teak cleaner first. Sand smooth second. Apply 4 to 6 coats teak oil third. Then apply Behr's Scandinavian Tung Oil once a day for 7 days, once a week for 7 weeks, once a month for 7 months, once a year thereafter. I'm now into month 2 and the teak on my Montauk is beautiful. The tung oil has a wax in it and fills the pours. The wood on my boat is something Ethan Allan sells.

dfmcintyre posted 06-30-2001 10:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
tim -

I'd follow Tom's advise to the letter. I've BTDT with the teak cleaner.

However, I prefer varnished teak, except on the gunnels, or places where someone is gonna put a shoe.

I use Interlux Clipper Clear Varnish, over their varnish prep. Follow the instructions. Sand lightly between coats. I wait 24-48 hours between coats.

This year, based on an article I read Show Boat (?), I tried buffing out the final coat.
You sand with 1500(!) grit wet/dry paper and then buff with a new foam wheel, using 3M's "Finesse-It". It turned out pretty well. I was impressed. _Very_ smoooth. I noticed that there are _very_ minute scratch marks, which slightly dulls the overall appearence. The guy who I learned varnishing from said that I needed to go one finer sandpaper grade, to 2000, then buff. Will try that over the winter and report back.

Jim can attest to the finish so far.


vdbgroup posted 06-30-2001 02:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for vdbgroup  Send Email to vdbgroup     
My experience: Completely refinished 1981 Montauk Teak as follows: 1)Sand wood with med. coarse and fine paper using finish sander to get naked wood.2) Use teak cleaner liberally and brush into wood using bronze wool pads and also use brass brush working with the grain in tough spots. 3)Rinse wood with water thoroughly and place in a mild sun to dry immediately 4) Let dry at least 24 hours then warm up wood in sun for an hour and then apply good quality teak oil using sponge brush or stiff bristle brush depending on grain 5)Apply with the grain 6) let first coat soak in and then apply 2 more coats (wood will only absorb so much oil). Let dry a couple of days before exposing to elements. My teak looks great and has lasted for three years with only one light oiling in between. Sanding is necessary to open wood grain. Cleaner, acid based or just bleach, is necessary also to kill bacteria in wood that causes greying, similar to mildew bacteria. If you don't kill bacteria your work will not last as long. Sanding is hard work! Also, keep your boat covered and clean and your work will last longer.
Hellsivin posted 05-10-2007 07:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for Hellsivin  Send Email to Hellsivin     
Hello Guys!
My new video portal
[url=]New Videos Today[/url]

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.