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Author Topic:   nav lights for 13 Classic
chrisc posted 06-27-2001 12:31 AM ET (US)   Profile for chrisc   Send Email to chrisc  
I recently purchased a 1960 13 and need to install bow and stern navigation lights. The existing wiring isn't evident. The holes where the wiring used to be have been filled. Does anyone have any ideas about the best way to get this little whaler lit? I'm not anticipating a lot of night whalering, but would like to have lights just in case.
Tom W Clark posted 06-27-2001 01:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
check this thread out: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000946.html
CIELO3428 posted 06-27-2001 05:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for CIELO3428  Send Email to CIELO3428     
MOUNT YOUR STERN LIGHT ON YOUR
OUTBOARD COWL NEAT CLEAN AND WIRES
OUT OF THE WAY
Gep posted 06-27-2001 10:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Chris, I'm in the middle of putting in my wiring for my bow light on my 1959 13 (as of this moment it's sitting in my backyard with the rub rail half off with the wires hanging out). I ran it under the rub rail insert. Is working great.

Tom, I looked at the thread that you posted and read that it should only penetrate the hull at the bow (which I have already done) and the terminal block at the stern. I don't have a terminal block at the stern and was going to poke the wire out at the console and put the switch on the console and run the positive and negative wires up from the back with my starter and choke wires from the solenoid on the transom, but I didn't want to have this lone wire sticking out right at the console and maybe getting in the way of my steering cables. What am I doing wrong here? Anybody??
Thanks,
Mike

Tom W Clark posted 06-27-2001 10:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Gep,

If you want to wire it like Whaler did then continue the wire to the back of the boat and install a small terminal block near the stern light hardware. This terminal block becomes the junction between the wires running to both the bow and stern lights. The power to the lights will come from the console via the light switch on the console.

L A posted 06-27-2001 11:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for L A  Send Email to L A     
Tom, my 61 13 has the original holes for the lights on bow and stern and you can see the wiring tucked in each hole. Do the bow and stern lights screw into the hooles and connect there? I don't know if the wiring is any good after all these years. Thanks Larry
Tom W Clark posted 06-27-2001 12:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
L A,

The bow light would have mounted over the hole on the bow where the wires are protruding. The terminal block would have screwed on where the wires are coming out in the back.

Chances are that the wires are no good but this is easy enough to check. If they are then you can go ahead and use them but when they fail you will probably have to retrofit the newer rub rail.

Gep posted 06-27-2001 12:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Tom, I'm still not grasping what your saying, if I run the wires to a terminal block in the back, then I'll need to run wires to get to the switch and back again to the terminal block? Is this right?
Mike
Tom W Clark posted 06-27-2001 01:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Mike,

That is essentially correct. Most Whalers with electricals (lights, electronics and other elec. accessories) have an electrical distribution "panel" at the console. There is, or should by, a larger gauge set of wires bringing power from the battery to the console.

On older boats the wiring came directly from the battery uninterrupted. On newer boats and boats that have been, wisely, updated, the power leads will have either a circuit breaker or fuse at or near the battery to protect these "main" power leads to the console. Accessories such as lights begin their wiring at this distribution point at the console.

For a boat such as yours you might consider running a red/black pair of marine grade 14, or at least 16, gauge wires from the battery to a fuse/terminal block under the console. These leads could be protected by an in-line fuse inside the battery box. The lights would get fused power from here via a three position pull switch to control them. This is just one of the simplest and least expensive ways to do this.

Of course there are fancier and perhaps better ways such as using dash mounted fuse holders or even circuit breakers, but for your purposes it should suffice.

Gep posted 06-27-2001 04:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Thanks Tom.
Appreciate the advise.
Mike
chrisc posted 06-27-2001 11:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for chrisc  Send Email to chrisc     
Gep, where'd you purchase the new rubrail and how much did it cost? I haven't checked the old wiring yet, but I'm inclined not to trust it even if it does test out ok initially.

Cielo3428 (strange name) how did you mount the stern light to the outboard cowl? Are you taking power directly from the outboard somewhere, or are there wires running to it from somewhere else? Sounds like a neat idea, but I'd have to drill holes through the cowl wouldn't I?

thanks everyone for the great input so far

LarrySherman posted 06-27-2001 11:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for LarrySherman  Send Email to LarrySherman     
I really dont think the coast guard intended your stern light to be a variable 115-155 degree light. That might cause some confusion at night to your fellow boaters.
CIELO3428 posted 06-28-2001 06:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for CIELO3428  Send Email to CIELO3428     
CHRISC
OM MY 13 BW I MOUNTED A STANDARD
STAINLESS STERN LIGHT ON THE TOP
OF THE OUTBOARD COWL THIS REQUIRED
TWO MACHINE SCREW HOLES AND ONE
WIRE HOLE YOU WILL FIND A HOT
OUTPUT FRON THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR/
RECTIFER UNDER THE COWL INTERUPT
THE CIRCUT WITH A WATERPROOF
SWITCH AND A QUICK DISCONNECT
SWITCH TO ALLOW COWL REMOVAL
THE LIGHT SHOULD COME WITH A
GASKET SEAL WITH RTV MINE IN
USE MORE THAN 5 YRS NO PROBLEM
Gep posted 06-28-2001 09:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Chris,
I bought my Rubrail kit from Twin Cities Marine. I paid $117 including shipping.
Phone # (920)793-2715 ask for Sue Lodel. (she's very helpful). I bought the Anniversary Edition White, I read a post from last year, I think, and somebody wrote that they thought the white was kind of tacky but I think with the blue interior, white exterior and mahoghany seats, the white rubrail looks classic and classy.
Mike

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