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  bow bit removal on OR18

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Author Topic:   bow bit removal on OR18
Newbie18 posted 06-27-2001 02:08 PM ET (US)   Profile for Newbie18   Send Email to Newbie18  
We are about to replace the rub rail on our outrage 18 but we cant remove the old one because the bow bit covers about half of it and the screws will not budge. Has any one had this experience, is there any way to work around it?
Bigshot posted 06-27-2001 02:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
You think it is bad getting it out, Wait till you got to get it in, damn near impossible.
dburton posted 06-27-2001 03:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for dburton  Send Email to dburton     
Big shot

Boy that was a helpfull comment.

Bigshot posted 06-27-2001 04:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Just telling the truth! Did a partial rubrail on a 15 and with the new(unsquished) rubrail on the bolts are like a 1/2 inch away from the old holes. I think I drilled new ones or something cause it was not happening.
Tom W Clark posted 06-27-2001 07:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Newbie 18,

Your best friend for backing out those screws is some form of penetrating oil like WD-40 or Liquid Wrench. The trick with penetrating oil is to give it time to work. Let it sit for hours or overnight.

You should also give the screws a pop with a hammer, not directly, but by putting the screw driver in place and striking it with a hammer to try to break that bond that has developed from the corrosion. It might even be a good idea to apply oil, let it sit, then give it a rap with the hammer, apply more oil and repeat the next day. I have had success after doing this routine every day over the course of a week.

When the time comes to attempt to back out the screws be sure to remove any oil from the screw head. You don't want any lubricant to make it easier for the screw driver to slip out. This is important! Swab it out with acetone or toluene or some other solvent that will cut the oil and evaporate quickly.

It is also important to use a good screw driver sized appropriately to the screw. Another trick is to use an abrasive compound, like rubbing compound, in the screw head to help the screw driver get a good "bite".

If you have one, you can also use an impact driver which is a screw driver-like device that you strike with a hammer which converts the energy of the blow into torque. It has the advantage of also being driven into the screw head during the impact and thus can be successful when the screw has already begun to be chewed up by earlier, feeble attempts.

When the time comes, be sure you are confident the screw will come out and really put your weight into it.

If all else fails just drill heads off, remove the bow bit and there may be enough shank left over to grip with a pair of vise grips. This will usually remove the rest of the fastener.

When you replace the rub rail the bow bit may be held forward of the old screw holes. It seems like the bit is squashed into the rub rail but in fact the rub rail needs to have some cut out of it to provide some relief for the lip of the bit. I don't think this will be a problem with your Outrage but it certainly is true of the 17 and under boats with the chrome bow chock under the light.

The reason Whaler cut this relief into the rub rail is so the hardware would be somewhat more flush with the rub rail and less likely to snag any lines, docks or other boats.

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