Will a t- top work w/ a bimini? - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Will a t- top work w/ a bimini?

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Will a t- top work w/ a bimini?

duckduckgoose posted 06-27-2001 08:42 PM ET (US)
several questions guys!
Thinking of putting a t-top on my 22' outrage. Will the bimini be usable w/ it? Also what is a price range for a decent t top w' electronics box
=install?
I need (not really) to re-wire my console and would like to put the battery in it and also add a new fuel guage and trim guage as they both do not work. The motor is a 1999 merc offshore 200 carb. What is entailed in doing this. I am not good w/ wires and elect. What cost range am I looking at?
Last one my 77 gal tank I feel is too small. What are my options for more fuel? A broken guage is no help when I am out there. I have an hour meter but am not sure as to what I am burning. 1999 200 carb merc v6 w/ 70 hrs on it. At 4000-4200rpms? Maybe 6-7gal per hour? What about mpg?
Thanks
DDG
LarrySherman posted 06-27-2001 10:23 PM ET (US)
I dont think your bimini will be usable, but then, you wont need it if you have a T-top. High quality tops run from 2 to 3 thousand dollars. Decent quality, but designed for easy fabrication, from 1 to 2 thousand. If you want to keep your bimini, perhaps an Arch? See lhg's boat for a great example.
I just finished rewireing my whole boat, and if yours is a vintage model, I can't see the benifit of putting the battery in the console. Streaching about 10 feet from motor to battery (proably 15 in actual cable) with 2 gauge would be a pain. Dive 1 put his under the rear seat. Mine are in the side wells. I ran black and red 6 gauge, connected to the battery through a 70 amp breaker (blue sea systems) on positive, and a 500 amp shunt (heart interface link 10 battery monitor, nice unit) on negative. Then attach positive to blue sea systems waterproof panel, and neg to bus bar. Wired the outputs from the panel to another bus bar. Now to connect anything, just patch to pos and neg bus for appropriate breaker.
This is a relitvly easy job, but time consuming to do it right. You have to crimp, thne solder, then shrink wrap every connection. Be very carefull of how you run the cables: if they chafe while underway, you at a minimum will strand yourself. I dont want to think about the other extreme. My entire system took me about three days, but I was doing some other stuff as well.
Cost? Man, I dont even look anymore, but I'd guess wire = 300, terminals = 50, various crimpers = 100, link 10 = 230, blue sea systems panel = 110, and add 200 for "stuff"
Larry
Bigshot posted 06-27-2001 10:44 PM ET (US)
4000 rpm's, about 12-14 GPH. The 6-7 might be overall gph which includes trolling, etc. My 225 on a 20' Hydrasport burns about 12gph @3700 cruise. Wide open is 24 gph, Tank is getting smaller eh?

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Will a t- top work w/ a bimini?
duckduckgoose	posted 06-27-2001 08:42 PM ET (US) several questions guys! Thinking of putting a t-top on my 22' outrage. Will the bimini be usable w/ it? Also what is a price range for a decent t top w' electronics box =install? I need (not really) to re-wire my console and would like to put the battery in it and also add a new fuel guage and trim guage as they both do not work. The motor is a 1999 merc offshore 200 carb. What is entailed in doing this. I am not good w/ wires and elect. What cost range am I looking at? Last one my 77 gal tank I feel is too small. What are my options for more fuel? A broken guage is no help when I am out there. I have an hour meter but am not sure as to what I am burning. 1999 200 carb merc v6 w/ 70 hrs on it. At 4000-4200rpms? Maybe 6-7gal per hour? What about mpg? Thanks DDG
LarrySherman	posted 06-27-2001 10:23 PM ET (US) I dont think your bimini will be usable, but then, you wont need it if you have a T-top. High quality tops run from 2 to 3 thousand dollars. Decent quality, but designed for easy fabrication, from 1 to 2 thousand. If you want to keep your bimini, perhaps an Arch? See lhg's boat for a great example. I just finished rewireing my whole boat, and if yours is a vintage model, I can't see the benifit of putting the battery in the console. Streaching about 10 feet from motor to battery (proably 15 in actual cable) with 2 gauge would be a pain. Dive 1 put his under the rear seat. Mine are in the side wells. I ran black and red 6 gauge, connected to the battery through a 70 amp breaker (blue sea systems) on positive, and a 500 amp shunt (heart interface link 10 battery monitor, nice unit) on negative. Then attach positive to blue sea systems waterproof panel, and neg to bus bar. Wired the outputs from the panel to another bus bar. Now to connect anything, just patch to pos and neg bus for appropriate breaker. This is a relitvly easy job, but time consuming to do it right. You have to crimp, thne solder, then shrink wrap every connection. Be very carefull of how you run the cables: if they chafe while underway, you at a minimum will strand yourself. I dont want to think about the other extreme. My entire system took me about three days, but I was doing some other stuff as well. Cost? Man, I dont even look anymore, but I'd guess wire = 300, terminals = 50, various crimpers = 100, link 10 = 230, blue sea systems panel = 110, and add 200 for "stuff" Larry
Bigshot	posted 06-27-2001 10:44 PM ET (US) 4000 rpm's, about 12-14 GPH. The 6-7 might be overall gph which includes trolling, etc. My 225 on a 20' Hydrasport burns about 12gph @3700 cruise. Wide open is 24 gph, Tank is getting smaller eh?