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Author Topic:   What type of finish?
whalertim posted 07-09-2001 07:19 AM ET (US)   Profile for whalertim   Send Email to whalertim  
I am in the process of re-doing all the teak on my Montauk. My question is what type of finish do most people like on a Whaler? Gloss, Satin, Oil ? I am undicided as to what I want for a finished product. I am leaning toward the Varnished Glossed finish, but a soft satin is nice also. I need help on this one.
Tim NC
OutrageMan posted 07-09-2001 07:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
You will find that most are teak oiled (my preference also).
JohnT posted 07-09-2001 09:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for JohnT  Send Email to JohnT     
WhalerTim -
My teak was just refinished this past winter with Cetol (a Sikkens product). I'm not sure, but I think it's regular Cetol - not the high gloss - and it shines very nicely. I like it better than anything else I've seen. You may want to get a piece of teak and a small can of Cetol and try it out for yourself.

If not, I think you'd want to use Spar varnish in either satin or gloss. Satin is probably the better choice (IMHO) because it's still shiny but it doesn't show scratches quite as badly. Gloss is of course even shinier, but scratches are more obvious on a gloss finish. We just refinished all the wood floors in our house last year, and that's the party line from all the floor refinishing people we consulted with, as well as the consensus from the home restoration magazines. My wife still occasionally complains that the floors aren't shiny enough, however. I think they turned out great and are plenty shiny in satin.

Finally, I live in Washington, NC - if you'd like to see the wood on my Montauk for yourself, just come on over (email me in that case). I need to talk to you about cushions soon anyway... :-)


whalertim posted 07-09-2001 09:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalertim  Send Email to whalertim     
John, Thanks for the reply! I have been leaning toward a satin finish v/ a gloss anyway. Cetol I think is what I want to try. I'll let you know how it turns out. In fer to the cushions. I will start back taking orders on the 12th or I might just wait till the 15th on Monday. Anyway, If I can help you let me know.
Thanks guys for the replys.
Tim NC
Tom W Clark posted 07-09-2001 10:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
I vote for an oil finish; most traditional finish fora Montauk or Outrage. My preferred product is Daly's SeaFin Teak Oil. Nothing will produce as beautiful a finish, except perhaps varnish, but that's a completely different look.

An oil finish is high maintenance (though it does not require much skill) if you want to keep it looking like new. I never tried to do this with my boats. Weathered teak is nice too.

For more on teak refinishing check this out:

kamml posted 07-09-2001 08:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for kamml  Send Email to kamml     
I just completed a refinish of the teak on my Montauk this year. For years I have been using boiled linseed oil on my walnut gunstocks, something I consider much more fragile a wood than the weathered teak on my whaler. So I used linseed on the teak. First a thorough sanding down to unweathered grain, finished sanding with 220 grit, then three coats of linseed over three days. Nice golden brown to a deep brown finish and no problems after 4 months in the weather and salt water (so far). Linseed is a soft finish that doesn't scratch easily and is easy to reapply. I have gotten fancy in the past with gunstocks, heating the oil, using olive oil and thinners to light up finish or accent grains. But on the whaler, straight room temperature linseed was used. So far so good. Careful with application tools as linseed is self-combustible on rags, very dangerous to leave them lying around. I recommend a good water rinse and disposal outside until trash pickup.
Kim posted 07-17-2001 12:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for Kim  Send Email to Kim     
hey I like semco , sealer...
jimh posted 07-17-2001 08:16 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Before you commit to using the Sikkens finish, find a yacht that has used it and see how it looks after a few years.

I recently saw a larger trawler type yacht that had a great deal of teak trim. The owner had used Sikkens to finish it several years prior. The wood had a dull, almost painted-on finish to it, with a definite yellowish cast. It was not attractive.

whalertim posted 07-22-2001 09:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalertim  Send Email to whalertim     
Well its almost done! All wood has been striped, sanded, and sanded,and sanded somemore. refinished w/ Sikkens Cetol, satin finish. New hinges,locks,and SS screws and new BW decals. ALl the wood really looks great! I did consider not using Cetol because of the post that JimH made. After looking at several products that are on the market I decided to use Cetol and give it a try. The final results are just what I was looking. Now to see how it holds up!
Thanks for the help.
Tim NC
Hank posted 07-23-2001 01:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for Hank  Send Email to Hank     
Good choice.
I use Cetol. It works well. Oiled teak finishes in the past have lasted no more that a few months in the Florida sun. My last Cetol finish went nearly three years. You should add a fresh coat every year or so. Found that after three years some of the finish had to be resanded to bare wood and then retreated with three coats. Some of the teak was still in good enough condition to enable me to wash with a mild detergent and than treat with one coat without any sanding.

I would recommend you use Manufacturer's direction and add a fresh coat once a year. Saves sanding.

whalertim posted 07-23-2001 07:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalertim  Send Email to whalertim     
I hope to get some pics soon. The new Boston Whaler decals really made a differance. Now I really need some help. Here goes.
On the keel of my Montauk, the gelcoat is worn to the fiberglass. This is due to the front roller of the trailer. The roller was bent and it did not turn thus rubbing the gelcoat down. I really need to fix this. Any suggestions on repair and matcing the color. I know! frist replace the roller so this does not happen again.
Tim NC
Bigshot posted 07-23-2001 10:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Keel guards are an easy fix. try Overton's.
JFM posted 07-23-2001 04:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for JFM  Send Email to JFM     
My wife and I have been involved the teak furniture business for many years. I sell for Rockwood, Barlow Tyre both top of the line. For years they recomended to oil teak only, or let it go natural. The wood is oily by nature and should never be varnished according to both companies. For the first time last year Rockwood recomended a sealer from a company called Semco, I'm pretty sure, but that is the first time I ever heard of any teak company recomend anything but oil as long as I have been selling it. Regards, Jay
whalertim posted 07-24-2001 07:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalertim  Send Email to whalertim     
Has anyone ever had any expeirance with a keel guard. What about resale value with a keel guard installed?

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