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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Wiring and Light switch
|Author||Topic: Wiring and Light switch|
posted 07-13-2001 10:31 AM ET (US)
I know some of this has been covered in the forum but I couldn't find any mention of the type and placement of the light switch. So here goes.
I just bought a 1965 13' Supersport (Hull #17216) and have two follow-on questions:
1. Can anyone supply a wiring diagram? I can't figure out how to wire this up on the 2 terminal block and use an Off-On-On swith to turn on the stern light only and then both the stern light/bow light. It seems like I would need a third terminal to do this?
2. My boat has no switch in place for the lights. What type of switch is used and where should it be located on the side console?
posted 07-13-2001 11:12 AM ET (US)
Use a DPDT center off switch. Wire power to
both middle terminals. Wire the bow
lights to one terminal on one side. Wire the
stern light to both terminals on the other
side. If the switch has a pilot light, wire
that like the the stern light.
Dunno what switch to use or where to mount it.
posted 07-13-2001 11:46 PM ET (US)
I don't think the smaller boats were generally wired with a separate feed to the stern light (so that it could be lighted as an anchor light).
You typically would not be anchoring a 13-foot boat overnight in an area where anchor lights are required; most often they're left at a dock.
You are correct; you will need three wires to do this.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 07-14-2001 11:10 AM ET (US)
jimh, I beg to differ. The smaler whalers were wired for anchor light and running light. (at least they were in the 70's). Of all the boat manufacturers, Boston Whaler has been especially good at providing "big" boat style hardware on smaller boats, oversized cleats, complete lighting systems, ect.
Mattall, use a three position pull off-on-on Cole-Hersee, or equivalent, switch mounted on the "dash" panel on the front of the console under the helm.
You'll need a three terminal block to make this work.
posted 07-24-2001 04:46 PM ET (US)
I got the wiring set up and I put it in just about exactly as Tom described it. Though I didn't see his message until just today, after the fact.
However, I suspect Jim may be right about not having separate anchore and bow light controls since I believe the 2 terminal block on my boat to be original. I wired it so it would require the 3 terminal block.
I used the Cole Hersee Pull Off:On1:On1 & On2 switch.
I mounted the switch on a block of salvaged original wood from my Dad's '62 Eastport (see Cetacea page 30) using a couple of L-brackets to the underside of the side console.
Everything works great, including the wiring run to the bowlight which I thought might be bad by this time.
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