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Author Topic:   old screw holes
Sinclair7 posted 07-26-2001 11:16 PM ET (US)   Profile for Sinclair7   Send Email to Sinclair7  
The re-doing of my 13' is moving along more quickly than i thought. there were a couple of techniques on how to deal with the old screw holes in the replies to my posting about hull repair. both of which i think i'll use, depending on the location of the hole. Some of the old screw holes bulge up where the screw had pulled on them. What is the best way to level this raised area?
lhg posted 07-27-2001 12:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I just made this repair in mine. Use a sanding block with #320 wet paper, and sand the raised areas down flat. It's possible you may go completely through the gelcoat if the area is raised enough. Then drill out the holes, all the way through the wood backer pad, with a 3/8" drill. Fill with white Marine Tex, (Much better than the West liquid epoxy), then sand flush again when hard if necessary. If you have spider cracks, "Vee" out with a can opener, fill with gelcoat, again sand flush, and sand up through the grades, buff, etc. Re-drill the pilot holes. The re-installation of the fitting should cover the white Marine Tex hole filler. Should look like new when you're done.
JBCornwell posted 09-08-2001 11:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Howdy, Sinclair. I've recently come up with a "better" method of dealing with "soft" screw holes. The basis is a product called Whale Board currently being used by BW as a replacement for wood backing. It is expensive, but indestructible. After (or before) leveling the mound around a failed screw hole drill it out, through the wood, with a 1/2" drill. With a deep plug cutter, cut a 1/2" plug of Whale board from a 1" thick piece. Epoxy the WhalerBoard plug into the hole. Drill and tap the plug for a #10 or #12 machine screw. A little silicone sealant and your rail is there forever. For heavy stress screws, go to a 1/4-20 machine screw.

Good luck.
Red sky at night. . .
JB :)

OutrageMan posted 09-09-2001 08:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
And yet another suggestion. My technique is a bit in between the two above.

As Larry mentioned, drill out and fair the holes. However, instead of using Marine Tex (I think it is messy stuff) go to the hardware store and get some putty epoxy (aka hard epoxy). Roll some up between your fingers, and fill the hole a little at a time from the bottom up. When you get to the end, push some more in until it oozes out the top. Scrape off the excess, and then wet your finger and smothe out the surface and let cure. Then re-drill and put the screws back in.

I think that the hard epoxy is much stronger than marine tex, and because is has some expansion while curing, will fill any small voids and have a stronger bond.

There are several types of this hard epoxy. The most common is the type for plumbing. It is all generally the same except for the final color after curing. The stuff labeled marine generally will be white when cured, whereas the plumbing will be grey.

Brian

Highwater posted 09-21-2001 02:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Highwater    
JB,

I am new to Whalers, not extremely handy with tools, new to the group and this is my first post so please bear with me.

I am interested in buying some of the Whale Board you speak of. Where is the best place to buy a small amount?.

After you epoxy the 1" deep (1/2" in circumference) Whale Board into the drilled-out hole, do you let it dry then sand or chisel off the part sticking up if it is a little too high?

After that, why would you need to "drill and tap the plug for a #10 or #12 machine screw?" Is the "plug" a metal sleave that provides threads for the machine screw and makes for a better hold than a wood screw could provide? Or is the plug a piece of mahagony that is better than whale board for screws. If so, why not just use that plug to begin with.

I'm sure that is a stupid question. Thanks in advance for your patience with a novice.

David

Soho posted 09-21-2001 03:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for Soho  Send Email to Soho     
David,

The "plug" being refered to is the Whaleboard that has been inserted into the hole. Tapping it provided the holes for the screws to go into and yes I think that it provides a better hold then a wood screw. Some people recommend using a wood plug instead in which case a wood screw would make more sense I guess.

Yes you can just sand down any parts of the repair that are a bit "proud" after the epoxy sets..

Hope this helps,

Ciao,

Ron

dgp posted 09-21-2001 06:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for dgp  Send Email to dgp     
JBCornwell and Soho, where can I buy, retail, the Whale Board product you are suggesting?
JBCornwell posted 09-21-2001 06:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Email tami@richlite.com and ask for samples of Richlite, Whaleboard and Whalelite. What she will send you is adequate to make a couple dozen 3/8" plugs or at least a dozen 1/2" plugs.

Red sky at night. . .
JB :)

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