Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
posted 07-30-2001 09:44 PM ET (US)
Will Gelcoat stick directly to "Evercoat" formula 27 all-purpose filler. Is some sort of primer required? Read the info about breaking down the top layer of epoxy with soap and water or sand paper. Did'nt see anything about the filler. I used a combination of both depending on the situation. The filler seemed to sand up better than the epoxy. Should the repairs be sanded really smooth or left a little rough to give the new layer of gel coat something to stick to?
posted 07-30-2001 09:53 PM ET (US)
Sorry for all the Rookie Queastions,
The Gelcoat looks clear in the can. What color will it dry? If it has to be colored, what color additives should be used. I am not sure if I should use a yellow, brown or something else. Where on the color spectrum is the gel coat on a 1982 13. Can it be rolled on with a foam roller and sanded smooth?
posted 07-30-2001 10:32 PM ET (US)
Not rookie questions..I've been boating for over 20 years..Going to do my first gelcoat repair and needed the same info. Most of your questions can be answered at: http://www.spectrumcolor.com Might even want to give them a call (I did and learned a lot!
posted 07-30-2001 10:33 PM ET (US)
Typically the rule is:
epoxy over poly = yes
That said, you can indeed put gelcoat over epoxy, with adequate prep.
That washing and sanding you read about was in refrence to something called "Amine blush" which is a residue that forms on the top of curred epoxy, usually when humidity is high/changing. In genneral, epoxy created a much stronger secondary bond than does poly, thus the rule above. However, if you wash your epoxy work, then dry, then sand it, the gelcoat will stick. You wash it to get rid of the amine blush film, which prevents you from sanding it back into the epoxy.
I always wipe anything I'm going to use epoxy and/or poly on with acetone about 15-30 min before applying. Keep the rag clean, exposing new surface often. Use lots of rags for a big area. Work in a well ventilated area. Make sure the temperature is good, and not on the downfall. Same for humidity.
Read the Evercoat can to see what it is. Its proably poly. As for the gelcoat being clear, I can't answer for that, as they are usually white, which provides a base for tinting. Perhaps you should stir it, the pigment might be on the bottom of the can. If it is, then check for dates on the can, as the shelf life of this stuff is not great.
Hope this helps. Larry
posted 07-31-2001 02:17 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the replies. I was wondering how to apply the new gelcoat to the hull. I repaired a lot of old screw hole where the rub rail was improperly installed, and a couple of chips on the boton are next. Could the gelcoat be rolled on with a foam roller and sanded up threw the grits?
posted 07-31-2001 10:18 AM ET (US)
You should read JimH's article on gelcoat repair in the refrence section. It really depends on how big the area is. If its many small. seperate areas, then I would saw brush. If its a single large area, then spray. I have no experience with foam rollers and gelcoat. I think that you would introduce a lot of air bubbles into the gelcoat. Note that gelcoat will not cure when exposed to air. Please read Jim's article, and contact Spectrum.
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