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Author Topic:   rub rail
Angryeel posted 08-17-2001 09:45 AM ET (US)   Profile for Angryeel   Send Email to Angryeel  
I have read the recent posts concerning adhesive for a rub rail and need to ask a related question. I am about the install a new 3 piece rub rail on a '64 17'er, I got the rail from BW and it came with rivets for instalation; should I use these to install it? Is there any benifit to using screws instead of rivets, or the other way around? Also curious about and adhesive as well. Thanks for any input.
Dick posted 08-17-2001 10:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
No adhesive is required with the new rub rail kits. I like the pop rivits that come with the kit, but screws would work if you prefer. Thats a lot of ss screws to buy though.


Angryeel posted 08-17-2001 10:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for Angryeel  Send Email to Angryeel     
When you use the rivets, are you using a hand powered gun or a pnuematic one? Reason I ask is that all I have is a hand one and from my experience it does not seem to be the optimum tool for instaling lots of rivets, especially ones of that size. I have enough stainless to complete the job but am wondering which will deliver the strongest and longest lasting instalation, I do not want to do this again anytime soon. Thanks for the info so far.
Gep posted 08-17-2001 03:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
I just got done putting my new three piece rub rail on my 59 13' sport. My new rub rail also came with the ss rivets. I opted for screwing mine in, it just seemed like it would hold better, especially since my boat is so old and the rail didn't seem like it had that much meat. I went with 3" ss sheetrock screws spaced about 4-6" apart, some even closer if it wasn't grabbing as well as I thought it should. It worked out pretty well and if I need to take it off for some reason I could do it in about 15 minutes.
hardensheetmetal posted 08-17-2001 05:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for hardensheetmetal  Send Email to hardensheetmetal     
I replaced the original rub rail on my 68 13' Sport with a new all white 3 piece from the aniversary model, looks very retro. Anyway, I used the aluminum rivets that came with the kit. The area under the rub rail is where the two hulls (inner and outer) are seamed and there doesn'yt seem to be a whole lot of glass there. Because the rivets are expanding inside the glass, I felt that i got a better hold. Also, use ViseGrip quick clamps on either side of every one or two rivets as you go along, this made the difference in the job. It hold the rail for you while you drill and it keeps the rail pulled in tight ot the gunnel.


70_Katama posted 08-17-2001 08:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for 70_Katama  Send Email to 70_Katama     
Did any of you guys fill in the old holes that secured the original rub rail, or did you try to use the same ones?
Dick posted 08-17-2001 08:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
You should fill the old holes to strengthen the area. I have used Marine Tex. That way when you are drilling the rubrail and boat for the rivits you allways have solid material.

An air powered rivit gun would be great but a good hand powered one will do the job. Think I bought mine from Snap On.

Sinclair7 posted 08-19-2001 12:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sinclair7  Send Email to Sinclair7     
I just finished the install on my 83 13'. This job became a little frusrtating at times. The reciever track was difficult to flex and had a tendacy to twist on wierd angles. I used 1" ss #8 srews. Except in a few places where i used #10. The #10 screws had to be removed because they would not allow the rail to seat into the reciever track properly. Ultimately, I sawed the reciever track in half with a coping saw and sanded the seam with 600grit sand paper. The resulting joint looks pretty good. Before all this, I did seal all the old screw holes with epoxy and sanded flush.
P.S. Hind sight being 20/20. I would haved used dish washing detergant to help seat the rubrail into the reciever track.

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