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Author Topic:   Gelcoat Repair
LarrySherman posted 08-21-2001 09:18 PM ET (US)   Profile for LarrySherman   Send Email to LarrySherman  
Link to thread in General form that seems more relevant here.


LarrySherman posted 08-21-2001 09:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for LarrySherman  Send Email to LarrySherman
kingfish posted 08-22-2001 09:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Thanks, Larry-

I can feel the guilt waves lifting from my shoulders...

B Bear posted 08-22-2001 09:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for B Bear  Send Email to B Bear     
Author Topic: Gelcoat repairs
Hoop posted 03-05-2000 11:39 PM ET (US)
Whoops! I got my first gelcoat chip yesterday. I was backing out from the dock but still near the dock, and the bow swung and "clunk" out flew a chip of Whaler gelcoat. Ugh. About 1.5 inches long by 0.5 inches wide. But an article in Trailerboat Magazine gives me confidence that I can fix it myself. Any suggestions before I begin? Should I get a gelcoat repair kit from my dealer? Will they have color matched stuff?
jimh posted 03-07-2000 01:38 AM ET (US)
Recently, West Marine began selling and stocking the SPECTRUM COLORS gelcoat repair kits that are OEM Color matched to Boston Whaler colors.
You might also want to reference an article at wherein I describe my attempts at making some repairs to a Boston Whaler.

If you have never done anything like this before, and if the area to be repaired is in a prominent spot on the boat, you may want to consider making a few trials on a testpiece or getting a pro to do the actual repairs.

I started fixing scrapes in the keel and other areas of low-visibility.


bigz posted 08-22-2001 10:25 AM ET (US)     Profile for bigz    
Bear cool, however over the past two years there are tons of gelcoat "repair" scenarios posted most of which are hidden in repair topic threads with titles which give no clue on the ensuing discussion contained within!

Kingfish now don't get carried away!

Don't see any "guilt" lifting off your broad shoulders, your guilty, as all of us until DA Judge finds us innocent of the terrible deed of topic change and posting in the wrong forum --- hope the sentence is a light one --- my tan is fading --- ;-}

B Bear posted 08-22-2001 01:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for B Bear  Send Email to B Bear     
Your right Big Z there is alot of these including hole & foam repair, maybe for another thread.
I went back and picked up a couple of more threads. If anyone wants to continue, esp. those interested in gelcoat repair, just look at the date of the last thread and work towards the present. Its too nice of a day I am going out on the water. I pick up on this later later.

Author Topic: Question on cracking
Ed posted 03-20-2000 09:00 AM ET (US)
I was looking at a 1973 13' Whaler yesterday and noticed some stress type cracks in the glass in various places inside the boat.
Mostly around curves in the design. I was wondering if these cracks are nromal for this age hull and if they spell pending death for the hull. Also, can they be repaired by a handy amature?

It appears the boat has been kept under cover, so I don't think water has seeped in yet, but will the foam break down if it has? Is there a preferred way to seal the cracks?



kent posted 03-20-2000 11:16 AM ET (US)
Ed. I am working on an old 13 ft. Whaler. My boat had lots of those small cracks too. I took the boat to my local fibreglas shop to get their opinion. They told me that these small stress cracks were normal with older fibreglas and that they were cosmetic in nature. They said that only the gelcoat was crazing and the fibreglas was still structurally sound. They see it all the time on old fibreglas, boats or otherwise. The foam should be OK as the cracking would not be through to it. BW foam is supposed to non-absorbing.
This is how they told me to repair the cracks.

1. The boat must be cleaned with a solution of water and TSP to remove any old grease or oil. Then let it dry and clean it with acetone.

2. Let the boat dry for a while. It must be VERY dry before you can do any fibreglas work.

3. Sand the area with 80 grit paper, remove the dust, and wipe it again with acetone.

4. Apply a coat of resin, a layer of 6 oz. cloth, and then another layer of resin. Then sand and fair the surface.

5. Apply 2 coats of gelcoat to finish and sand/buff out.

Keep in mind that this is the procedure for those small stress cracks. Big cracks require a bit more prep work and some extra filling.

I have followed the advice and it has turned out well. Anyone with average mechanical aptitude can do the work. It is quite tedious and time consuming, which is probably why it is so expensive to have a shop do it. Shop rates in my area here in Canada run about $60.00/hr. It does not take too many hours and you have a BIG bill. The materials don't cost that much.

Hope this helps.

Author Topic: gelcoat color?
tarbaby posted 07-01-2000 02:40 PM ET (US)
I have a 77 Mauntauk and want to fix some dings in the gelcoat. I went to my local Whaler dealer and bought a premixed kit. The color matches the inside color perfectly. The problem is the outside is a lighter shade of tan. It is almost white but not realy. Is this the color it should be? The dealer said that the inside and outside should be the same color for that year. Anyone know about this? Thanks,Shay.

lpaton posted 07-03-2000 09:52 AM ET (US)
Having the same problem with my 1996 Outrage III. Kit purchased from Spectrum matches hull but is a lot whiter than interior. They sent me another kit that still does not match. Spectrum suggested I send an e-mail to Whaler with hull number and they could give me the correct colour name for Spectrum to match. Have not yet gotten around to it. Hope this helps.
lhg posted 07-05-2000 03:05 PM ET (US)
Gelcoat lightens up as it ages and weathers from ultra-violet exposure. You may have to do some custom color blending. The gelcoat from Spectrum is original factory specs and doesn't account for weathering. This is a common problem for any Classic Whaler owner.
tarbaby posted 07-05-2000 06:35 PM ET (US)
I would think that the inside would or should be lighter than the outside if anything.The color of the gel coat is uniform on the hull,just the outside is a lot lighter. Any idea why?
lhg posted 07-05-2000 07:31 PM ET (US)
Maybe the boat was stored or docked with a cover. Or maybe the exterior was re-done.
dfmcintyre posted 07-06-2000 07:19 AM ET (US)
Tarbaby -
Like Larry mentioned, a 22 year old _anything_ will fade. I also had the same problem with the reno of my 1973 Outrage. Heres what I did:

The bottom hull (floor and outside hull) came from the factory with a slightly darker finish then the upper hull skin and console. I trailered it to a local paint dealer who mixes the Pittsburgh product called Concept 2000. They "shot" the hull with a little portable analyzer. It's an interesting device that has a series of five flashtubes that you place close to the hull and fire it. It stores the info and feeds it into a computer that mixes up the paint.

The paint is a two part product that is normally sprayed (I've had good luck retouching by brush very small dings).

I picked up the paint, the hardner and reducer (reducer is needed for spraying), along with a portable spray kit (Precept?) and was all set. Tape off the area , well beyond the repaired section thats been sanded, mix according to instructions (the little mixing cups with the ratios on the side are worth there weight here!) and spray (here's the key) multiple almost mist like coats on the surface, allowing the coat to tack slightly before adding the next coat. Naturally dust free area, no wind, etc. are important.

Then you get to sand/buff it out.

Good luck!


Author Topic: 1978 Spider Cracked Deck ????
Eric S posted 08-14-2000 02:18 PM ET (US)
I have been slowly fixing up a 1978 15' w/ an 1988 Evinrude 70 hp. Had a huge hole in bottom which is now fixed. The interior deck has extensive spider cracking. Will the cracking leak water into the subfloor plywood ? Also, it is fairly ugly. Had anybody painted over the non-skid interior and is this recommended. I'm concerned that the non-skid will become non-effective and i'll have to add abrasive. Please help.
bigz posted 08-14-2000 04:20 PM ET (US)
Eric,welcome to the forum.
Yes it can enter the hull foam cavity and saturate the plywood and foam! Then again maybe not all depends if there just surface or through skin to the fiberglass.

Assuming these were due to weather and not stress and they are as extensive as you say -- one suggestion is have the whole interior either sand or media blasted and then you can use a 2 part marine poly like Interlux which can be brushed or rolled on after priming or have it re-gel coated.

You will have to check the spider cracks after blasting and if any still remain these are probably pretty deep --- you have to sand those open and fill them with either a gel-coat putty or epoxy putty depends on whether you can see fiberglass blue/greenish color (epoxy) or it's still gel (gel putty and then sand them smooth before priming/finishing.

There is a lot of discussion through out this forum on this subject. So surf through some of the other post and threads.

West Systems Epoxy has a nice little hand book available on patching and minor repairs but in you case you need a more comprehensive guide for doing the entire interior maybe a few of the other members can recommend publications that will help.


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