Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: Gelcoat Repair|
posted 08-21-2001 09:18 PM ET (US)
Link to thread in General form that seems more relevant here.
posted 08-21-2001 09:20 PM ET (US)
posted 08-22-2001 09:11 AM ET (US)
I can feel the guilt waves lifting from my shoulders...
posted 08-22-2001 09:21 AM ET (US)
Author Topic: Gelcoat repairs
Hoop posted 03-05-2000 11:39 PM ET (US)
Whoops! I got my first gelcoat chip yesterday. I was backing out from the dock but still near the dock, and the bow swung and "clunk" out flew a chip of Whaler gelcoat. Ugh. About 1.5 inches long by 0.5 inches wide. But an article in Trailerboat Magazine gives me confidence that I can fix it myself. Any suggestions before I begin? Should I get a gelcoat repair kit from my dealer? Will they have color matched stuff?
jimh posted 03-07-2000 01:38 AM ET (US)
Recently, West Marine began selling and stocking the SPECTRUM COLORS gelcoat repair kits that are OEM Color matched to Boston Whaler colors.
You might also want to reference an article at http://continuouswave.com/maintenance-logs/epoxy/ wherein I describe my attempts at making some repairs to a Boston Whaler.
If you have never done anything like this before, and if the area to be repaired is in a prominent spot on the boat, you may want to consider making a few trials on a testpiece or getting a pro to do the actual repairs.
I started fixing scrapes in the keel and other areas of low-visibility.
posted 08-22-2001 10:25 AM ET (US)
Bear cool, however over the past two years there are tons of gelcoat "repair" scenarios posted most of which are hidden in repair topic threads with titles which give no clue on the ensuing discussion contained within!
Kingfish now don't get carried away!
Don't see any "guilt" lifting off your broad shoulders, your guilty, as all of us until DA Judge finds us innocent of the terrible deed of topic change and posting in the wrong forum --- hope the sentence is a light one --- my tan is fading --- ;-}
posted 08-22-2001 01:07 PM ET (US)
Your right Big Z there is alot of these including hole & foam repair, maybe for another thread.
I went back and picked up a couple of more threads. If anyone wants to continue, esp. those interested in gelcoat repair, just look at the date of the last thread and work towards the present. Its too nice of a day I am going out on the water. I pick up on this later later.
Author Topic: Question on cracking
It appears the boat has been kept under cover, so I don't think water has seeped in yet, but will the foam break down if it has? Is there a preferred way to seal the cracks?
1. The boat must be cleaned with a solution of water and TSP to remove any old grease or oil. Then let it dry and clean it with acetone.
2. Let the boat dry for a while. It must be VERY dry before you can do any fibreglas work.
3. Sand the area with 80 grit paper, remove the dust, and wipe it again with acetone.
4. Apply a coat of resin, a layer of 6 oz. cloth, and then another layer of resin. Then sand and fair the surface.
5. Apply 2 coats of gelcoat to finish and sand/buff out.
Keep in mind that this is the procedure for those small stress cracks. Big cracks require a bit more prep work and some extra filling.
I have followed the advice and it has turned out well. Anyone with average mechanical aptitude can do the work. It is quite tedious and time consuming, which is probably why it is so expensive to have a shop do it. Shop rates in my area here in Canada run about $60.00/hr. It does not take too many hours and you have a BIG bill. The materials don't cost that much.
Hope this helps.
The bottom hull (floor and outside hull) came from the factory with a slightly darker finish then the upper hull skin and console. I trailered it to a local paint dealer who mixes the Pittsburgh product called Concept 2000. They "shot" the hull with a little portable analyzer. It's an interesting device that has a series of five flashtubes that you place close to the hull and fire it. It stores the info and feeds it into a computer that mixes up the paint.
The paint is a two part product that is normally sprayed (I've had good luck retouching by brush very small dings).
I picked up the paint, the hardner and reducer (reducer is needed for spraying), along with a portable spray kit (Precept?) and was all set. Tape off the area , well beyond the repaired section thats been sanded, mix according to instructions (the little mixing cups with the ratios on the side are worth there weight here!) and spray (here's the key) multiple almost mist like coats on the surface, allowing the coat to tack slightly before adding the next coat. Naturally dust free area, no wind, etc. are important.
Then you get to sand/buff it out.
Author Topic: 1978 Spider Cracked Deck ????
Assuming these were due to weather and not stress and they are as extensive as you say -- one suggestion is have the whole interior either sand or media blasted and then you can use a 2 part marine poly like Interlux which can be brushed or rolled on after priming or have it re-gel coated.
You will have to check the spider cracks after blasting and if any still remain these are probably pretty deep --- you have to sand those open and fill them with either a gel-coat putty or epoxy putty depends on whether you can see fiberglass blue/greenish color (epoxy) or it's still gel (gel putty and then sand them smooth before priming/finishing.
There is a lot of discussion through out this forum on this subject. So surf through some of the other post and threads.
West Systems Epoxy has a nice little hand book available on patching and minor repairs but in you case you need a more comprehensive guide for doing the entire interior maybe a few of the other members can recommend publications that will help.
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