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Author Topic:   Polyurthane/Varnish/Stain for 68 console?
Don Stansell posted 08-29-2001 10:44 PM ET (US)   Profile for Don Stansell   Send Email to Don Stansell  

I stripped the mohogany down. I can't seem to match the original coating. All the stains I have looked at don't match. Most are darker than the original. Was the original even stained or just varnished?
I ended up staining it a bit darker than the original and have been applying outdoor polyurthane. Any suggestions out there?
whalerron posted 08-29-2001 11:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     
This is something that must appear many times in previous posts because so many of us have had the same problems. I use Interlux grain filler to fill the grain. I forget the number of the product. It just fills the grain in the mahogany and it gives the wood the look it would have if it was wet. Then I use Interlux Schooner varnish with a minimum of 5 coats. It gives the wood a golden color. See pictures of my Minot model on Cetacea page 33 to see what the finished wood looks like.
lhg posted 08-29-2001 11:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
There is tons of information here on varnishing. But I have been doing some teak varnishing lately, and in a nutshell, here is hwat I have found gives me FANTASTIC results. (others may differ)Much of this information I, too, have picked up from the varnishing pros on this site.

1. Wood MUST be sanded bare, to fresh wood, to get rid of previously bleached out, sun damaged wood under the old varnish. When it looks like brand new wood, it's ready. You may also have to use a filler stain, probably recommended. This gives you a smooth surface on which to begin.

2. I wipe on oil stain with the same name wood, both for the additionally darker appearance, but mainly for the additional UV protection it affords the wood over the years. Just like a dark skinned person can take more sun exposure. Even with the stain, the wood will lighten up under the UV, but it will take several years longer, and will not showing yellowing like un stained wood eventually will.
(BW did not use stain under their varnish - many think it's an "impure" solution)

3. I swear by Z-Spar's 2015 Flagship marine spar varnish. Finest I have ever used, period, and it's very high in UV inhibitors. It's costly, and follow instructions on can. Buy several smaller cans rather than one big one. Clean rim, hammer down lid after each use, and turn can upside down. This will preserve quality of varnish for future coats after each use, and any skim-over will always be on bottom of can.

4. Apply with a FOAM disposable brush, and sand with 3m's Professional grade sandpaper, 320 grade between coats. This stuff is fantastic and doesn't clog up. Forget a bristle brush. Once you use foam you'll never go back. Don't ask me why they lay out the varnish so smoothly, with no bubbles, but they do.

5. Filter the varnish into a cup, then apply. Boat US and others have these paper cone shaped filters for 35 cents. Or you can use a stocking.

6. Do 7-10 coats. Some even recommend more.

Your wood will look like you flowed glass on to the surface, hard as a rock after curing for a week, and you'll be able to see your face in it!

Paint Legend posted 08-30-2001 01:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Paint Legend  Send Email to Paint Legend     

The 2 gents above gave you some great advice. I'll give you my 2 cents. Get a good varnish, years ago I used a so-called marine varnish (Minwax)on my first cedar strip canoe and couldn't have been more disapointed with the UV protection or lack of more specifically. Everyone has there favorite but here are some good ones: Interlux Schooner and other varieties by Interlux are good, Z-Spar (both already listed) Epifanes Wood finish gloss & Clear Varnish (my preference), AWL-SPAR, AWL-BRITE. Just don't by a $ 10.00 quart at the hardware store, the extra money spend will pay for itself long term!


rwest posted 09-03-2001 11:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for rwest  Send Email to rwest     
I used Captain's Spar VArnish to do my brbuilt mahogany console adn am pleased with it. I used fine sandpaper to strip the old varnish layers off and to smooth the old wear in parts. Applied several coats of varnish with light sanding between coats. The old and new wood son't match up perfectly but it sure has a classic look about it.
browning20ga posted 09-04-2001 12:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for browning20ga  Send Email to browning20ga     
You have heard from the experts but I'd like to through in my .02 worth. I just bought ny first BW, a 13' to rebuild (not restore). I took out the center bench and built a new console and made a new (port side) cabinet to match the console so I can walk between them, it turned out beautiful. Even though I'm new to BW, I've done woodworking for years. I replaced all the original wood with new Phil. mahogany. I filled the grain, tried a dozen stains and wasn't happy with any of them so I just finished my wood with West Marines ,Wood Pro, Premium Wood Finish: "Highly UV resistant, Extra long lasting" about $26.00 / Qt. Six coats later (sanded with 320 grit between coats) The finish is absoultly beautiful and has a beautiful rich color from the W.M. varnish

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