Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: 1961 13'|
posted 09-01-2001 01:02 PM ET (US)
Hello, I am new to the forums, I found this site 2 days ago and got my first Whaler yesterday. Its a 1961 13 foot Bos'n model (hull number 4535). At least thats what the paper BW emailed me says. I guess that is considered the sport? It still has the original wood which is in very good condition for being 40 years old. I think the only non-original parts are a 20 HP Mercury Mariner engine and a white plastic steering wheel. It also has a 14.5 gallon gas tank added below the bow bench. The hull looks to be in good shape, but the bottom paint needs to be redone and in the aft locker (the part in between the bulkhead and the engine mount) there is a 1.4 inch crack that runs for 6 inches down on both sides. According to Mercury the engine is 112 pounds. Is this too heavy and caused this crack? Or do you think a previous owner tried to ski or something from it and that caused the crack? Right now there is a brown resin that seams to be doing its job, but I will get this fixed. There are spider web cracks around the corners of the boat, but that is to be expected, yes?
First thing is I want this boat to be comfortable to be used fishing for long periods of time, so I wish to add at least 2 bass boat like chairs onto it. I am getting the fiberglass and gelcoat redone, so would it be better to have these set into the hull or somehow bolted to the wooden seats? At the very least I want to have higher chairs with backs so it would be more comfortable. I was thinking something like chairs that could lower for driving due to the low console and then be raised for fishing.
I am also looking for a Bimini top, I have contacted Mill's Canvas but I haven't gotten a quote yet. Are there any that snap onto the side of the boat, or must it be attached to the fiberglass?
In its current state the boat lacks an electrical system, but my engine can handle an electric start, how hard are theses systems to install? I don't really need this but I would like it.
Any other modifications that are popular with 13' footers? Suggestions on what to do?
Sorry for all the questions, this is my first BW and my first boat. I am only 15 so I do not know many things about BW, and from what I have read in the forums you guys know your stuff.
posted 09-01-2001 01:28 PM ET (US)
Ah yes once more thing -
The rubrails pull off in 2 or 3 places. One place it pulls off enough to get 3 inches between it and the hull. It looks like black adhesave was used to attach it. I heard this stuff is really messy. I am wonder if the 2 part rubrail would work on this boat or not.
posted 09-01-2001 07:14 PM ET (US)
Here's a link which shows how to replace the rubrail. I did it on my 1966, it took about half a day. You will need an electric drill, a pop-rivet gun, a heat gun, and at least 3 clamps. It's pretty easy once you get it started, heat gun is used to bend the hard plastic rail around the bow. Cost for 3-piece rail is about $100 even including rivets and depending on what color you want.
posted 09-01-2001 08:07 PM ET (US)
That article mentions using screws instead of rivits. Can I also do this? I can get a rivit gun, but I would like to use things that i have right now.
posted 09-01-2001 09:32 PM ET (US)
I recently did the rub rails and bottom paint on my 13 (along with alot of other things). After looking into it, i decided to use screw to attach my rub rails. The reciever track was a real pain to bend, even with a heat gun. I eventuually sawed it in half and sanded the seam with 600 grit sand paper. You will probably not want to do this. Stainless Steal screws are absolutely mandatory. I used #8 x 1" stainless steal screws. The previous owner of my boat used regular screws and caused quit a few rust stains on the hull. Looking back I would have used a slightly longer screw. I tried using #10 screws but the head of the screw did not let the rub rail seat into the reciever track properly. You may even want to use a smaller screw than #8 but keep in mind that the head has to be large enough to preventy the reciever track from popping over them. There is not a wood backing so some of the screws tended to spin freely and pop out. Over the winter I am going to remove the rub rail and bore out all the screw holes and use west system epoxy to secure wood dowel on the holes. Then sand them flush and Drive the screws into the dowels. I have heard about a "molly hole" or something like that. It consist of using a bent nail and making a void behing the fiberglass and filling with epoxy. Then driving a screw into the epoxy. I tried this and don't see how this or pop rivets would work, for a do it yourselfer, because the reciever track is so rigid and the ease screw stripped out of the fiber glass and epoxy. Looking back, I would have just put the dowels into the screw hole in the first place. Hopefully, the epoxy will seal the wood and prevent rot. Check your e-mail for some pics of my bottom opaint job. I used peel away to remove all the old paint, repaired some gel coat, sealed with a two part epoxy primer and used West Marine brand bottom paint.
posted 09-01-2001 10:55 PM ET (US)
I thought bending it around was easy, but you need the heat gun and the 3 clamps to pull it around. I used 8" bar clamps to work it around while applying heat. I also found the rivets worked well. You'll need about 75 screws, so why not find a rivet gun you can borrow. They held well for me and come with the kit.
posted 09-02-2001 04:00 PM ET (US)
My problem with the rivets and molly holes are because of how many old screw holes there were on the boat. The rubrail I removed was not the original. The rivets were in place from the original rail and screws were used to attach an after market rail sometime later. With your boat being the age it is I figured you may have similar problems. Due to the small spaces between all the old screw and rivet holes there was not enough glass for rivets to secure to. This was also a problew when finding a good place to drive a screw. I tried using the old holes, after filling them with epoxy, but they were so stripped that the screw required to fill the hole would have been so large as to prevent the rub rail from seating into the reciever track. Let me know if you got the pics.
posted 09-02-2001 06:13 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the info. This boat has had 3 owners including me. The rubrail is the orignal glue on type, so there are no holes. The person who bought this boat for me owns a HVAC company so getting tools and screws and stuff is pretty easy. As we speak he is welding some parts of the trailer together.
Thanks for the help with the rubrail... I think thats pretty straight forward now.
Whats the best way to add chairs to the boat? I was thinking of bolting them onto the benches, which i might replace with some stronger wood, or have someone attach them to the fiberglass. Is there enough reiforcmant to put one of these forward of the first bench and aft of the second?
posted 09-04-2001 07:11 AM ET (US)
I got a couple of those folding/swivel chairs on my 13'68 and i loved,bought from Kmart for $25.00+ $7.00 the base ,screwed down on the back seats.About all your other questions you can find the answer right here,just take your time and read back,welcome home!!
posted 09-07-2001 07:26 PM ET (US)
I recently purchased a 1981 13 whaler which had the rub rial riveted on. Trust me, don't use rivets if you plan on keeping this boat more than a few years. I had to drill out the rivets and repair all the holes. The guy above "Sinclair7" definitely has the right idea. Use stainless screws and you may want to use some sort of sealant to prevent water from seeping under the rail. I could not believe the mess that had accumulated under the rub rail and it was not that old (not the original). This is a critical place where the fiberglass edges meet and water seeping under the edge will cause rot as I can attest to. A friend also recently installed the 3-piece rub rail on his 1974 13-whaler and he used stainless screws every 6 inches along the sides and every 3 inches at the bow corners. Good luck!
posted 09-08-2001 09:55 AM ET (US)
I just finished the rub rail on my 73 13'..Yep..a chore and a 1/2. Installed the 3 piece. Took 2 hrs to remove the old rivets!! the first "L" piece was a piece of cake after we decided to stretch it somewhat and tape it every 6 foot. Then came the rigid roll. Using a heat gun with inexperience, we developed a 30'or so snake..yuk! We used #10 stainless to attach every 4 to 6 inches...after a lot of sweat and blood and heat blisters it was time for the final piece to be..inserted. A good time to replace the bowlight wiring!! Another unanticipated hardship. crimped the bottom fold and then squeezed in the top.whewww..after a full day or 12 hrs...I now have the port side fairly smooth and the starboard side still like a snake....waiting to steal a rubber mallet to complete the job.
It was a experience I prefer not to do again..I'll try anything once. very few of these projects twice!!
best of the luck
posted 09-08-2001 10:09 AM ET (US)
PS: I " shoulda, coulda, woulda" used #8 instead of 10's If I read the above post by Sinclair..would have smoothed out the starboard side I think.
posted 09-08-2001 10:24 AM ET (US)
OK, so i will use #8 screws on the rubrail, which i bought today.
now, where can i find the whaler logo that goes on the sides? I want people to reconize the greatness of my boat
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