1987 Evinrude - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  1987 Evinrude

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   1987 Evinrude

george nagy posted 09-06-2001 11:50 PM ET (US)
For those whom have been wondering what my situation is with this motor I shall explain and maybe someone has or is having the same difficulty. Besides the metallic paint and rusty exterior my engine is pretty sound. Well that is until the volt reg and alternator went on the fritz.
Then it developed quite a missing propblem. It is a sif one or two cylanders cuts in and out. It is somewhat intermitten but it is getting quite frequent.
The corrosion and paint problems can be somewhat retarded but these other mechanical issues could add up, especially if they are yet uncertain. One thing that is good is the compression.
Once I had an 83 70 hp on my 15' and it was great for 8 years of hard teenage use(both me and the pre. owner) all year round. Then it blew I mean blew. I ended up replacing almost every part and eventually little by little the electronics. Before I got rid of the boat I totally had the lower unit rebuilt. Mind you all of these repairs were costly and no were near that of a new motor. I eventually spent way more than a new motor.
Having said all that I am very sensitive to doing the same thing over again. Maybe it is a simple fix, but I'm not willing to spend my retirement on mechanic bills.
Some of you may have had the same experiences with similar if not the same problems. I would love to here your stories.
Peter posted 09-07-2001 01:54 PM ET (US)
George,
I had an 87 150 Johnson. Volt regulator went on mine and was an easy problem to fix to fix. My mechanic told me those go from time to time. The cylinders cutting in and out could be the individual cylinder coils or one of the two power packs. Might also be caused by the voltage regulator. I had a power pack go but never had any coils go. However, my friend with a 200 Johnson always had coils going bad. If it is coils, those are easy to fix yourself and are not very expensive (< $50). I recall that there are two powerpacks, one for each back of cylinders. They aren't necessarily cheap (< $200) to replace. Except for the voltage regulator, I believe that these fail mostly because of contact corrosion.
george nagy posted 09-07-2001 04:29 PM ET (US)
How much was the volt reg.?
Peter posted 09-07-2001 08:20 PM ET (US)
I can't remember how much, but it wasn't that painful as I recall. I think on the 1987, the part is under $50? I think that BigShot had a good handle on the cost of these things.
salty_dawg2 posted 09-10-2001 04:16 PM ET (US)
I very recently replaced rec/reg on an '86 150 Johnson. The part was about $215 in the Keys. Tough part is that you have to pull flywheel to get to the old one. Best way to get off the flywheel is with an imact wrench and a flywheel puller. About a 1-hour job with the right tools, almost impossible without the right tools.
Bigshot posted 09-10-2001 04:57 PM ET (US)
If you have the silcer round thingy on the starboard? side of the engine, then cheap($20+). It is about the size of a big quarter and has 2 yellow and 1 red wire coming out I believe. These blow real easy and usually your tach gets iratic or stops working too. Check for thios(obvious) and get back to us.
Whalerdan posted 09-11-2001 03:31 AM ET (US)
The bigger engines (and mine 115 '85 Evinrude) have a larger rec/reg. They cost over $200, just did it.
Read http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000852.html
Chris J posted 09-11-2001 11:01 AM ET (US)
I have an 86 Evinrude 150 that gave me fits for a season; occasional misfire and rough running. Finally replaced the power pack-- all better. It cost a bit over $100 as I recall, from Boatfix.com.
Several people I've talked to recommend carrying a spare power pack, so you might just get one to have on hand, even if it doesn't fix the problem.
Bad connections in the wire harness can also cause poor running. I'd suggest cleaning and inspecting all the connectors.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: 1987 Evinrude
george nagy	posted 09-06-2001 11:50 PM ET (US) For those whom have been wondering what my situation is with this motor I shall explain and maybe someone has or is having the same difficulty. Besides the metallic paint and rusty exterior my engine is pretty sound. Well that is until the volt reg and alternator went on the fritz. Then it developed quite a missing propblem. It is a sif one or two cylanders cuts in and out. It is somewhat intermitten but it is getting quite frequent. The corrosion and paint problems can be somewhat retarded but these other mechanical issues could add up, especially if they are yet uncertain. One thing that is good is the compression. Once I had an 83 70 hp on my 15' and it was great for 8 years of hard teenage use(both me and the pre. owner) all year round. Then it blew I mean blew. I ended up replacing almost every part and eventually little by little the electronics. Before I got rid of the boat I totally had the lower unit rebuilt. Mind you all of these repairs were costly and no were near that of a new motor. I eventually spent way more than a new motor. Having said all that I am very sensitive to doing the same thing over again. Maybe it is a simple fix, but I'm not willing to spend my retirement on mechanic bills. Some of you may have had the same experiences with similar if not the same problems. I would love to here your stories.
Peter	posted 09-07-2001 01:54 PM ET (US) George, I had an 87 150 Johnson. Volt regulator went on mine and was an easy problem to fix to fix. My mechanic told me those go from time to time. The cylinders cutting in and out could be the individual cylinder coils or one of the two power packs. Might also be caused by the voltage regulator. I had a power pack go but never had any coils go. However, my friend with a 200 Johnson always had coils going bad. If it is coils, those are easy to fix yourself and are not very expensive (< $50). I recall that there are two powerpacks, one for each back of cylinders. They aren't necessarily cheap (< $200) to replace. Except for the voltage regulator, I believe that these fail mostly because of contact corrosion.
george nagy	posted 09-07-2001 04:29 PM ET (US) How much was the volt reg.?
Peter	posted 09-07-2001 08:20 PM ET (US) I can't remember how much, but it wasn't that painful as I recall. I think on the 1987, the part is under $50? I think that BigShot had a good handle on the cost of these things.
salty_dawg2	posted 09-10-2001 04:16 PM ET (US) I very recently replaced rec/reg on an '86 150 Johnson. The part was about $215 in the Keys. Tough part is that you have to pull flywheel to get to the old one. Best way to get off the flywheel is with an imact wrench and a flywheel puller. About a 1-hour job with the right tools, almost impossible without the right tools.
Bigshot	posted 09-10-2001 04:57 PM ET (US) If you have the silcer round thingy on the starboard? side of the engine, then cheap($20+). It is about the size of a big quarter and has 2 yellow and 1 red wire coming out I believe. These blow real easy and usually your tach gets iratic or stops working too. Check for thios(obvious) and get back to us.
Whalerdan	posted 09-11-2001 03:31 AM ET (US) The bigger engines (and mine 115 '85 Evinrude) have a larger rec/reg. They cost over $200, just did it. Read http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000852.html
Chris J	posted 09-11-2001 11:01 AM ET (US) I have an 86 Evinrude 150 that gave me fits for a season; occasional misfire and rough running. Finally replaced the power pack-- all better. It cost a bit over $100 as I recall, from Boatfix.com. Several people I've talked to recommend carrying a spare power pack, so you might just get one to have on hand, even if it doesn't fix the problem. Bad connections in the wire harness can also cause poor running. I'd suggest cleaning and inspecting all the connectors.