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Author Topic:   13 ft whaler light replacement
KeysWhale posted 09-17-2001 10:15 PM ET (US)   Profile for KeysWhale  
restoring a 73 sport. somewhere along the line the wiring for the bow and stern light have been cut off. Anyone restored the electric wiring on one of these classics? Any way to replace the wires?
Dick posted 09-17-2001 11:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
The wires are run under the rub rail on the stbd side of the boat. You will have to remove the rub rail to replace them.
KeysWhale posted 12-08-2001 03:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for KeysWhale    
Rub rails off, wires must be under the fiberglas. Will I need to cut into the hull to replace? Any suggestions?
noswah posted 12-08-2001 04:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for noswah  Send Email to noswah     
On mine the wires were run just under the rub rail insert not the rub rail itself. It has a hole drilled thru the female part of the rub rail about three inches from the transom an another hole drilled thru the front into where the bow light would be.
I would run 3 wires so you will have an extra wire in case its ever needed and will be much easier to fix next time. Hope this helps.
KeysWhale posted 12-10-2001 02:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for KeysWhale    
Did you use the old style rub rail or one of the newer. The old style being the thin white angle, not one of the 2 or 3 part rub rails. Seems like the old style would be a lumpy with the wire underneath. That last sentence about the lumpy under wire isn't a set up for puns, OT comments or jokes!
Sinclair7 posted 12-20-2001 02:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for Sinclair7  Send Email to Sinclair7     
Hello,
Read some of the old postingd. Someone did some good damage to their 13 looking for the wires. It should be behind the rub-rail. I don't think wiring could be in glass do the the way the boats are built.
Good Luck'
Sinclair7
lhg posted 12-20-2001 02:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Here's a quick summary of 13' and 16' Whaler light wiring. Until they started running the wires in the two piece rubrail, under the Black pull out section, all boats had wires (3 of them - 1 as a spare) molded into the hull. These boats were blue inside and originally had the 1 piece white rubrail. I don't know exactly when they stopped molding the wires into the hull, so it's possible some of the "tan" boats also had this for a while. When two of these three wires failed, and without a conversion to a new style 2 or 3 piece rubrail for the hull, BW recommended that the wires be run under the hull lip, and covered with a good white tape. This required holes being drilled at bow and at stern wire block, coming outside the boat in the "finger groove" of the hull lip.

As mentioned, if the hull has the two piece Barbour rubrail, with replaceable black or red insert, the wires can be run under it. This is how they are done in all the 2nd generation V series Outrages. It is not necessary to remove the riveted-on white/tan rigid receiver section to accomplish this.

Flipper posted 12-22-2001 10:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for Flipper  Send Email to Flipper     
When the time came to replace the lights on our '66 Sport 13, I purchased the new rub rail system and installed new wires inside the rail, as described above.It was an expensive option (and the boat was no longer "original") but it really gave the boat a face lift; hiding some of the bad "chews".
KeysWhale posted 12-23-2001 11:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for KeysWhale    
Went out yesterday and took a look at a couple of old 13 ft'ers. One had the wire run from the console aft, with the stern light wire, and then through the rubrail forward. However the rub rail wasn't the original white, but the newer style with a channel typically holding a rope. My confusion was I was going to replace with the original style, but now I see the solution to the bowlite issue.
A woodworking friend redid all the wood last week. We went to Medley Hardwoods, outside Miami, and bought $160 of mahogany. Spent the day planing, cutting and sanding. The new wood is a work of art, hope I don't screw it up applying the varnish.

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