Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Dismantling & Repairing bow rail on 73 Outrage 21
|Author||Topic: Dismantling & Repairing bow rail on 73 Outrage 21|
posted 09-24-2001 05:08 PM ET (US)
Am about to start removing all wood, hardware, steering, instruments,console, gas tank (maybe) in order to have topside repaired (fiberglass) and totally painted. Have been told that can remove bow rail intact. However, 4 of 6 tee-fittings are non-stainless and quite corroded from life in saltwater environment. Would like to remove and replace with ss tees prior to removing entire bow rail. There is no"apparent" separation of bow rail anywhere. I would like to know from current or previous owners of similar vintage Outrage if they know where rail is divided. Must be under one or more of the tees??? Anybody know and have suggestions for proceeding further??
posted 09-25-2001 10:58 AM ET (US)
I believe the bow rail and other bent stainless was supplied by CMI, in Hingham, MA, which was located near the old Whaler works. CMI still provides rails to Whaler and retails to people like me who just installed one on a GLS. Contact Fred Caldwell at CMI in Hingham at (781)740-1260 and he can fax you drawings showing the details of assembly. CMI also has the proper and OEM stainless fittings - the fittings they sent me two monts ago for my GLS matched perfectly those installed on my Montauk in 1979!
posted 09-25-2001 11:29 PM ET (US)
Disconnect the first set of tees forward of the console.If it is not split you will have to cut with a pipe cutter.When I rejoined the split I inserted 4" long x 3/4 O.D.stainless tubing to strengthen the joint.When you install the new tees make sure your screws at the split lock in the tubing.
I just replaced my fittings on a 19'4" 1973 whaler.I would think the railings are pretty much the same.
posted 09-26-2001 09:40 AM ET (US)
The mid set of tees is the first set forward of console.The tees on your boat are probably original as mine were chrome plated brass also.To hold the splice in place where the tee joint and insert are,I removed the set screws and drilled thru rail and tube.I then used whaler screws in place of set screws.
Brooklyn is a suburb of Cleveland,Ohio and I fish Lake Erie exclusively.The lake can take its toll on a boats hardware with the short chop it produces.Most of my tees were cracked rather than corroded.
If your tees are corroded in place a hacksaw or dremel cutoff tool, slit lengthwise, across the top of the fitting just shy of cutting thru will work.A sharp blow with a metal chisel will separate the cut you have made.
posted 09-26-2001 09:59 AM ET (US)
A lot of New Yorkers will be surprised to learn that Brooklyn is a suburb of Cleveland! Fuhgeddabowdit! Upon assembly/re-assembly of the rails, I would recommend drilling and tapping the stainless tubing, and using lock-tite on the stainless screws. Self-tapping screws will turn to mush, as the SS tubing it just too hard for the screws to cut their own threads. Tapping and lock-tite will keep the rails together and will eliminate loosening up due to vibration.
posted 09-26-2001 08:24 PM ET (US)
Thanks for your responses. I figured I would need to use insert tube and screw together when reassembling and may contact both of you by e-mail later for more tips. Right now I am just concerned abou dismantling and figuring out how to get new ss 90degree fittings slipped on. G, your 19 only has 4 tee fittings but 21 has 6 so still uncertain where or if my rail is split anywhere. F Caldwell of CEI told me by phone he thought rail would be split at front center but not so on mine. C Bennett at whaler.com believes may be split at middle tees. Just going to have to loosen and find out for myself. The existing ss tees (middle uprights) only have Allen set screws, but other 4 non-ss tees on front and rear uprights have Phillips head screws and couple are clear thru rail and bolted on other side of tee. Have been dousing regularly with Liquid Wrench and will be trying to remove this Sunday with help of my stronger armed son and son-in-law.
G, should have realized Ohio Brooklyn is Cleveland suburb. Remebered there was a Brooklyn Heights from when I lived in several Cleveland suburbs during grad school years at Case Tech.
posted 09-26-2001 10:15 PM ET (US)
If you are planning on replacing all of the tees anyway you will find the split if there is one after you remove the rail.Once the rail is removed each tee can then be slipped to the side on the rail for inspection.
posted 09-26-2001 10:20 PM ET (US)
Just a thought.The split will probably be under the stainless tees.As they are not OEM.All of my fittings were chrome plated brass.I would presume the stainless tees are replacements on your boat.
posted 10-01-2001 10:56 AM ET (US)
For those interested, we did succeed in dismantling bow rail yesterday. As C Bennett had thought, the rail was split on both sides under the middle uprights(stanchions)which were the existing ss tees. The two badly corroded Cr-plated tees on stanchions just in front of console were carefully removed with hacksaw. Was then able to slide new ss tees to those positions and fasten. Unable to slide new ss tees forward to two frontmost stanchions because of curvature of front section of bow rail. So, we cut off those similarly corroded tees by slicing completely through them AND rail and hammering off the tees. Will now obtain smaller stainless tube to insert at slice and mount tees accordingly. Complete assembly should look 100% better when reattached to hull.
This now brings up a new dilemma;thought abought starting new post but decided to keep here. Now that entire bow rail assembly is removed I kind of like the cleaner, sleeker look of my Outrage 21. I do of course appreciate the safety aspects of keeping the bow rail on. Would like to hear from others regarding pro/con opinions of "bow rail, or not to bow rail".
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.