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Author Topic:   1971 Hull Restoration
paid4 posted 09-25-2001 09:54 PM ET (US)   Profile for paid4   Send Email to paid4  
I purchased this 16' (hull #3A3165) back in 1981 from a gent in the DC area who used it for fishing in the Chesapeake and who said it was originally used by harbor police somewhere as a taxi of some sort... memory's a little foggy. It had a walk thru windshield configuration when I purchased it, which after about a year I tore out and replaced with a wood center console of my own design. This worked fine and we used it quite a bit when kids were much younger, but has not been in the water for about 6 years. I have discarded the wood console in favor of a rotation molded console that was given to me (much lighter). I now have a notion to completely restore the entire hull but have some serious issues that I need professional input for... the deck and the gunwhales have carpeting on them-How do I remove all the adhesive? It's been some time, but as I remember, there are a number of places where the deck is cracked from over-fastening something. The original split console was thru bolted to the gunwhales so I have several 1/2"+ holes that need filled. Is it possible to get this thing close to the original non-slip blue deck? Also there is about 2 1/2 coats of bottom paint I'd like to remove and not paint bottom again (i.e.-restore the Gel Coat?)I plan to remove the 1985 90HP V4 Johnson and rubrail and bow rails prior to attempting this. Once I've got a bare hull, what is best way to remove boat from trailer? Can it be man-handled upside down to better work on the bottom?
This, I know is going to be quite an endeavor so this is just the beginning of my questions. I have enjoyed the banter here and it seems there is quite a wealth of knowledge so... how 'bout sharing some with me. Thanks in advance.
Soho posted 09-25-2001 10:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Soho  Send Email to Soho     

Been working on my 69 Nauset ( #3A0941) for the last year on a restoration of sorts so I can answer a couple of the questions I think. First of all, I am not sure that you can flip this singlehanded, unless you are, um, quite strong... I had 6 people I think to flip mine upside down, pretty easy, and four to flip it back, again pretty easy. Takes about one minute with the right number of people. In terms of restoring the interior, depends on the condition once you remove the carpet ( did it have shaggy dice on the console as well ? ) I just saw something in Practical Sailor called Anti-bond ( see below ) that might work on the adhesive, but I supect that substantial elbow grease might be required. The holes can certainly be repaired with epoxy I would imagine and the floor can usually be repaired - depends on your level of proficiency with epoxy products ( West System )

Hope this helps,



Universal Solvent?

Most of us have glued things together with 3M 5200 when we really should have used something that would have given us a snowball's chance of undoing our actions. It's then that we find out how tough and sticky a good sealant can be, and how difficult to remove once in place.

Anti-Bond 2015 (which has been mentioned once or twice in this magazine) makes the job feasible, if not exactly easy. It's a citrus-smelling liquid supplied in a pressurized container. Company president Lois Boulicault says the liquid is odorless in its natural state; it's neither citrus-based nor petroleum-based. The sample we tried came in a 4-oz. can ($12.99) with a press-top valve and a thin tube to direct the release.

As the manufacturer clearly states, Anti-Bond does not work by dissolving the sealant; it loosens the bond between the sealant and the surface that it's been bonded to. You apply the Anti-Bond to the edge of the bonded surface, wait 10-20 minutes, and then try to separate the surfaces. If there's a large area being bonded, you remove the loosened material at the edges with a putty knife and reapply the Anti-Bond.

To test Anti-Bond, we took a clean, gelcoated, fiberglass panel and attached small strips of fiberglass to it, using a variety of urethane adhesives. Since some of these cure very slowly, we waited for three months before trying to remove the strips.

Anti-Bond works. The strips we tried to remove without it simply refused to come free. When we did pry them off, chunks of gelcoat came with them. The ones on which we used Anti-Bond came off cleanly, though they required some judicious prying and three or four applications of Anti-Bond.

It also did a good job of removing old decals and vinyl lettering. Lois Boulicault says it also removes beach tar, magic marker, and a number of other substances, and doesn't hurt skin.

Contactó JWB Environmental, Inc., 1227 Royal Oak Dr., Winter Springs, FL 32700; 800/557-6579;

paid4 posted 09-25-2001 11:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for paid4  Send Email to paid4     
oh yeah, fuzzy dice... I get it... actually it is marine carpet and really not a bad installation... if you like carpet. Thanks for the anti-bond tip... any more input to get me started would be appreciated... what about pressure washing?


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