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Author Topic:   Rub Rail Repairs
noswah posted 09-30-2001 08:46 PM ET (US)   Profile for noswah   Send Email to noswah  
I've removed the old rub rail and drilled out the ribets. Can I fill the holes with 3M's 5200 or is epoxy a must? I want to put my new rub rail on after it's cured but I'm not sure which is better ss screws or ribets.
Thanks
Dick posted 09-30-2001 11:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
Fill the holes with Travco marine-tex. It sets up hard and then can be sanded flush if necessary. The Whaler rub rail kits come with rivits and I see no need to use screws.
acseatsri posted 09-30-2001 11:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for acseatsri  Send Email to acseatsri     
I believe the rivets are the best choice. Whaler knows best! In the thin fiberglass, a screw is probably holding on less than 1/2 thread, whereas the rivets are pulling on the entire circumference of the hole. I'd use either Marine Tex or West system thickened with colloidal silica or some other thickening agent. Get yourself at least 3 bar clamps to hold it while you're riveting. Work slowly to make sure its straight and level. Use a rubber mallet to seat it. Make sure you have a heat gun to bend it around the bow. Use the bar clamps to pull it around (It worked well on my '66 13' sport) and rivet as you go.
jimh posted 10-01-2001 07:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I like that thinking about the rivets having more holding power--good point.

And two more votes for Marine-Tex epoxy. I am going to have to try a batch of this stuff myself (I have been a West System fan.)

--jimh

acseatsri posted 10-01-2001 10:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for acseatsri  Send Email to acseatsri     
Another point- screws vs. rivets... The top of the threads on the screws are sharp- it's how they self-tap. As they continue to "work" because of stresses on the hull and the rubrail, they'll continue to cut the fiberglass and the holding power will weaken over time as the edges of the hole are degraded. USE THE RIVETS!
lhg posted 10-01-2001 03:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Try the Marine-Tex, as mentioned. It sounds like a perfect application for it. I believe it's MUCH easier to use than "West's", and it's water soluble for clean-up. Be sure to use the White for anything in fiberglass. The Gray is for repairing metals.
noswah posted 10-01-2001 08:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for noswah  Send Email to noswah     

Precise and to the point, you guys are the greatest. Many thanks,
John

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