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  Motor not started in 6 years

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Author Topic:   Motor not started in 6 years
paid4 posted 10-10-2001 09:09 PM ET (US)   Profile for paid4   Send Email to paid4  
I have been following jim's post on storing outboards for the winter and was wondering what actions I should take in preparing my 1985 Johnson 90HP for starting after sitting for 6 years. when it was put up, I changed the oil in the lower unit, but did not fog the cylinders... an old timer here reasoned that the cylinders already had oil in them from the mix and therefore didn't need any additional, however I didn't know I would not get back to it for 6 years... anyway, I imagine there are quite a number of things that will need attention. All input appreciated. Thanks,paid4
Tom W Clark posted 10-10-2001 09:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
paid4,

The oil in the fuel mixture does protect the motor's internals to a degree, but not for long term storage. Fogging oil is a good thing, and you shouldn't spare it.

It is interesting to note that the OMC outboards in the late 80's required only a 100:1 mix of gasoline to oil. They ran fine this way but there was not enough oil left on the cylinder walls for protection against rust and corrosion if the motor was not used regularly. Thus OMC reverted back to their 50:1 recommendation.

To answer your question, there are two things that you really should do:

1) Before turning the key, remove the spark plugs and get some oil in those cylinders. You can use fogging oil or pretty much anything else you have on hand, WD-40, "Liquid Wrench", motor oil, ect. Don't fret over what kind, just get some in there and turn the flywheel by hand. If it feels like the powerhead is frozen, don't panic! Let that oil sit for a few hours or overnight and then turn the flywheel again. You may have to use some mechanical advantage to break that initial bond, but so be it.

Once the flywheel turns freely put the spark plugs back in and after completing step 2 go ahead and try to start it. Do not be alarmed when the motor smokes like hell on initial start up. There will be a lot of oil to burn off before it begins to run normally.

2) Replace the water pump impeller. This whole topic was discussed somewhere in the past on this forum and I recommended against automatically replacing the impeller but I have since changed my mind. It may be that when you get the lower unit off the impeller looks like new with very little wear, but the real problem lies in the shape off the impeller. The vanes tend to take a set to the position they rested in all those years and will not work as well as a new (and quite inexpensive) replacement. It is also very important to get the lower unit off just so you will be able to do it again in the future. You may well find that many, or all, of the screws or bolts are frozen in place. This is one problem with really long term storage.

Of course you will also be using fresh new fuel and not any old stuff you may have in your tank(s).

The good news is that you have an Johnson 90, one of the most indestructible outboards ever made. I have little doubt it will start right up and continue to give superb performance.

paid4 posted 10-10-2001 11:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for paid4  Send Email to paid4     
Thanks Tom... it's good to know that I've neglected a tough engine... I bought it new and it really has not had alot of hours on it. As far as dropping the lower unit, what do I need to be certain to do/not do when removing and reinstalling? what else should I be looking for once I have it off? Thx again...paid4
george nagy posted 10-11-2001 08:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for george nagy  Send Email to george nagy     
When dropping the lower unit on an OMC it helps to leave it in reverse, this positions the shift linkage for an easier reconnect. Good luck!
Whaler4me posted 10-11-2001 09:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whaler4me  Send Email to Whaler4me     
I recently started a 1986 yamaha 150 after 10 years. First, pull the plugs and shoot oil or some lubricant inside the cylinders.
Let it sit for a couple of days and repeat, then slowly try turning the flywheel with a wrench to see if you get any movenment.

I did this for about a two weeks, then cranked it with a fresh tank of pre-mixed gas. IT WILL smoke like a chimney, follow Tom's instructions they are exactly what I did, and have had no problems.

PS I had the fuel pump and lines replaced because of fuel sitting there for so long, and the three carbs rebuilt also.

Good luck

Bigshot posted 10-11-2001 10:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
You will probably need the carbs rebuilt. The water pump might work but replace it too.
Dr T posted 10-11-2001 11:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dr T  Send Email to Dr T     
You should also carefully inspect the wiring harness. In some cases the insulator on the wiring will develop a fine crack along the seam that was used when the wire was made. Where the insulator was cracked, moisture can get to the copper and it will tend to corrode. This will look like a badly corroded battery cable, except on a small scale. In the worst cased, the wiring harness will fall to pieces when you grab part of it and give it a tug (Happened to me on my 35 HP OMC).
paid4 posted 10-12-2001 10:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for paid4  Send Email to paid4     
Thanks guys... I'm dyin' to get to work on it and to hear it run again,however I have a good day of cleaning out the shop in order to make some room to move. If anyone else has some advice, bring it on...thanks again.p4

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