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Author Topic:   Bilge pump for Montauk/standard
NewWhalerGuy posted 10-25-2001 09:49 PM ET (US)   Profile for NewWhalerGuy   Send Email to NewWhalerGuy  
Hi.. I would appreciate some help on selection and installation of a bilge pump/autoswitch for a 97 Montauk/standard. In particular interested in mounting and what to do with discharge hose.
Dick posted 10-25-2001 10:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
My 99 Montauk came with an Attwood automatic pump installed in the sump and discharged into the motorwell. Works OK but I would use a Rule if I were installing one. An 800 gph should be plenty. Wire it so you have on/off/auto. The factory wiring is just on/auto, the off position would be nice at times.
andygere posted 10-26-2001 02:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
I am using a Rule Platinum 500 gph. It has an IC that senses water by starting every 2 minutes, then 10 minutes, and measuring current draw. It works well, and you don't need a bulky float switch in the tiny Montauk sump. FYI, I did have to replace the first one I bought at no cost to me (except time) and I've since learned that it was a recall item. I have left it "on" in my boat for over 2 weeks with out running the engines and drawdown on the battery seems negligable.
andygere posted 10-26-2001 02:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
To answer the second part of your question, I glued the plastic basket to the sump with 3M 4200, and just snapped the pump in after letting it set overnight. I used a couple of zip ties to strap the hose to my steering cable, so it discharges over the transom. It's not the best looking solution, but I didn't have to drill, and has worked fine for over a year now.
Arch Autenreith posted 10-26-2001 10:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
I have a Rule 500 I think. Manual. With the previous ones (at least 2 since I've had it) I screwed the pump base to the base of the tunnel. With this last one I filled in the holes and didn't attach it at all. Now if there's a clog or jam (being stored in the field leaves, evergreen needles, etc. find thier way into the floor and into the tunnel) I just pull out the pump now without having to remove the panel. Now there's no fiddling with the locking tabs or locking method and then trying to re-install with all the cables surrounding it.
Bigshot posted 10-26-2001 10:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
get the Rule Platinum. You do NOT need a switch. It cycles every so often and actually learns when to cycle depending on the environment. You just put it in the sump thingy and run the wires to your battery. When you pull the boat for a period of time, just disconnect the wire from the battery. Simple and neat. I got the 1100gph just because it was on E-Bay, the 500 would be plenty though.
waagdiver posted 10-26-2001 10:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for waagdiver  Send Email to waagdiver     
NewWhalerGuy, everybody seems to be on the right track. I concur, specifically:
--glue it down with 4200 or your favorite sticky stuff (no holes-yeah!)
--make sure you don't have any wire connections below the water line plus 2 or 3 inches above the water line
--in my other boat (not a whaler), a Penn Yan 23 cuddy, I use the little Rule 1100 with the automatic on every 2 minutes, and it works great: no switch to go bad; just every 2 minutes or so, it turns on and says "any water out there, if so, pump til its gone!" then 2 minutes later try again! its so awesome not to have to worry about the switch going bad, or how to mount both the switch and the pump; also, the unit is tiny! I'd go for the 1100, which is just as small as the 500 (I think). not the cheapest bilge pump, but it'll work when and if you need it. as far as capacity goes, if you can get higher capacity (1100) in the same size unit, go for it; some day you might be glad you did
--wire the bilge directly to the battery (rather than through a battery switch); you can always turn it off on the control panel; when you're in the water, set it to auto and leave it; it'll always be on if there's a charge in your battery; when on the trailer, turn it OFF at the control panel.
Good Luck
where2 posted 10-26-2001 01:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
My vote is for the Attwood 500 with the built in switch. Unless I have water in the sump, I have ZERO current draw. I won't start the debate about how much the Rule pumps draw over a month, my dad and I have debated this for as long as Rule has made their switchless pump. He gets to use his boat a few times a week, mine sits on the dock for months at a time. Usually, I switch the bilge pump off, but if I don't it still draws nothing. (Boat is on a dry-dock with cover.)

Plumbing: with some enginuity, you can engineer a PVC pipe arrangement that will route water up and over the motor well lip, dumping the water there to drain by gravity. No zip ties, no cheap corrugated hose that obstructs water flow. Keeping the head as low as possible, and the walls of the plumbing as smooth as possible is the key to maximizing output with a bilge pump.

Taylor posted 10-26-2001 04:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
Where2, can you elaborate on the discharge route/technique/material please.

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