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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
installing rub rail 11'
|Author||Topic: installing rub rail 11'|
posted 10-31-2001 07:58 PM ET (US)
i am redoing my 11' whaler and did not see the rail come off. would like to know where to start to replace it. it is the three peice one that comes from BW. i would like some help before i get started.
posted 10-31-2001 11:09 PM ET (US)
Just replaced one; not sure this is the best way, but... What I did was,
1. cut pvc in half
2. start at transom corner
3. screw every 12" or so
4. pull each screw and fill hole with 5200
5. at the same time as step 4- drill and 5200 a screw between each of the ones already there.
6. More details, post ?; happy to offer what I have gained from doing the job once before.
posted 11-01-2001 05:52 AM ET (US)
Why did you cut the pvc in 1/2 instead of keeping it one piece? Mav
posted 11-01-2001 10:29 AM ET (US)
I cut it for a couple of reasons.
1st, needed to leave space for the bow light, and I guess if you do not have the same type of bow light, you probably would not want to cut it.
2nd, it is much easier to work with a 20' piece of extremely stiff materiel with a memory that will not quit. It made is so much easier to get the rail on the boat. There may well be another way, like heating the pvc part, maybe in water? Mine was near impossible to straighten as one whole piece, and it was very uncooperative when trying to get it on the boat. After I cut it in half, it went on pretty easy.
posted 11-01-2001 11:03 AM ET (US)
I installed a new 3 piece rub rail on a '66 Eastport. I soaked the rub rail in a bathtub of hot water before starting to help soften it. Heating it up and working under the hot August sun did little to reduce the memory effect of it being coiled up. I started by tying some loops of twine to the side rails. Guiding the rub rail through these loops kept it off the driveway. After setting the first few rivets at the stern, using clamps to hold the rub rail in place, I attached the other end to a few bungee cords and attached the bungees to my van. This kept tension on the rub rail but also allowed for some flexibility by moving the trailer by hand. After running the new rub rail across the bow I then attached the other end (with several bungee cords) to a fence post behind the trailer. I was working in a driveway and didn't have room to move my van behind the trailer. This procedure kept tension on the rub rail and also kept it level during the installation. I also used clamps to hold the rub rail to the boat when drilling and installing the rivets.
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