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  Help: 65 Sakonnet, Blisters, Wet Foam

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Author Topic:   Help: 65 Sakonnet, Blisters, Wet Foam
joem posted 11-14-2001 11:19 AM ET (US)   Profile for joem   Send Email to joem  
[Moderator's Note: I have combined the four threads on this boat repair into one and deleted a couple of messages regarding the multiple threads.]

Gentlemen,
I need a little help. I am sanding the interior and the exterior getting ready to gel-coat the inside and paint the outside of what appears to be a 1965 Sakonnet. I started to scrap the outside bubbles that I have when off comes about 1/16-th of an inch. Part seems to be paint; I don't know what the other part is. It appears to be resin. My question: how do I repair before I regel-coat and then paint? This appears to be my only stumbling block so far. Any help in this matter is greatly appreciated.

joem

[Edited question for clarity--jimh.]

Bigshot posted 11-14-2001 11:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
They are called blisters and are common and non threatening. You just fill them and continue. They have a barrier coat you can apply to keep these from coming back. Talk to any marine store, interlux makes it.
joem posted 11-14-2001 03:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for joem  Send Email to joem     
After I sanded there were what appeared to be white spots in the fiberglass. When I punctured them a brown fluid came out. Do I sand down below this layer and repair or just puncture and then glaze over?

joem

jimh posted 11-14-2001 07:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
This older message thread contains material directly related to this discussion.
joem posted 11-15-2001 05:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for joem  Send Email to joem     
One of the earlier owners cut the hull by the transom for a hugh [huge?] bilge pump well as one would guess I wanted to restore the spot I took out the old repair and found stinky black foam.
My questions are: do I drill under to allow the foam to dry?
Cut the foam and buy blocks of foam to build the area up and glass over the spot for repair?
How long does it take to dry foam out?


Any help is needed

joem

OutrageMan posted 11-15-2001 09:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
A very easy fix, with wonderful results is to take a medium sized nail, bend it at 90 deg. and put it in your drill.

Then put it in the hole and spin it a few times to get the bad foam out. Use a shop vac for the rest of it.

Then get some putty epoxy nad fill the void and let cure. You can then cover the epoxy with whatever you wish.

Brian

Bigshot posted 11-16-2001 08:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
black is mildew. You can also repair ir and leave a small hole then use great stuff and fill it in then glass hole.
joem posted 11-16-2001 10:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for joem  Send Email to joem     
I have cut the old repair out now do I cut the old foam out use the west marine product spray in foam and glass over with many layers.

joe

Bigshot posted 11-16-2001 11:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
can you do the glass repair and leave a small hole to spray the foam in? If so I think it will bond better, then you just glass the hole. My last post was garbled.
stinkyB posted 11-16-2001 02:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for stinkyB  Send Email to stinkyB     
I had some under the softspots in my boat. I dug it out, let it dry, then filled with a mixture of chopped cloth & resin. Solid as a rock now.
Taylor posted 11-16-2001 07:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
Bigshot, is Great Stuff really compatible with Whaler's? Is this the same product that they have down at the local lumber year in the red can?
myotherboatisawhaler posted 11-17-2001 02:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for myotherboatisawhaler  Send Email to myotherboatisawhaler     
if great stuff is a closed cell foam, which i think it is, it should be fine. caution should be used when using any liquid expanding foam not to over fill. expanded foam generates considerable pressure and over filling a void could lead to fiberglass failures from the pressure at areas where the glass is thinish.
joem posted 11-16-2001 10:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for joem  Send Email to joem     
I have taken out the fiberglass about 1.5 feet the original shotty repair, do I dril under to allow the foam to dry up and do I cut the foam out use west marine product spray in foam and then glass over the spot with many layers.

joem

joem posted 11-17-2001 04:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for joem  Send Email to joem     
I have a 1 1/2 foot open hole so I can repair it any way I need to. Today I drilled a hole in the bottom and cut away a lot of the black wet foam it appeared to be in a puddle of water I put cans under the hole to see how much drains out. I am going to let it dry for the entire time it takes to regel-coat the inside and to paint the bottom of the boat.I will do the repair in about 2 months

joem

joem posted 11-18-2001 10:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for joem  Send Email to joem     
could someone e-mail me a picture of the the drain hole and transom area so when I restore I have something to go by my boat doesn't look anything of what it should

joem

boatsaver posted 11-18-2001 04:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for boatsaver  Send Email to boatsaver     
I think you need to pop rivet or screw thin plywood or other material to the fiberglass on the inside of and across the cutaway then fiberglass over it. Foam after it sets with vent holes to prevent bulges. Boatsaver
jimh posted 11-19-2001 08:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
With this "unified" thread I think you will be able to get more help with your project.

It occurs to me that in the original molded liner there is a large sump well in the rear of the cockpit.

Your plan to let the boat dry out for an extended period and to get photos of the original appearance are both good approaches to solving this problem.

jimh posted 11-20-2001 08:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
[administrative post]
joem posted 11-25-2001 03:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for joem  Send Email to joem     
My new question is were my old console was mounted should I cut the floor and replace with wood and fiberglass and then gel-coat the spots aren't wet but there has been a lot of screws put in them. I believe it will be difficult to get good grip for the new console any help is needed.

joem

Taylor posted 11-28-2001 03:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
I'm not sure I understand... are you saying that under the console area there are lots of screw holes... and you want to remount a console?

Why the wholesale reglassing of the area? Is it that bad? Perhaps something simpler would work.

First seal the unwanted holes. Then use the plug technique that has been mentioned elsewhere in this forum: Use wood or starboard plugs, glass them in where the screws will go with marine-tex or west system epoxy and drill for new screws.

JBCornwell posted 11-28-2001 04:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Hi, JoeM. Use the plug technique Taylor describes. BUT: Don't use pieces of dowel, use wood plugs cut cross-grain. don't use Starboard, it wont hold a good bond with epoxy. I think Taylor was thinking of Whaleboard, which epoxies very well and holds even machine screws like steel.

Red sky at night.. .
JB :)

joem posted 11-28-2001 06:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for joem  Send Email to joem     
The old floor is a little abused frayed and shredded. I am making a few fiberglass repairs and figured it wouldn't take much to do this repair I just wanted to know if this is the right thing to do.

joem

Taylor posted 11-28-2001 06:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
Correct, I meant whalerboard. I'm going to use wood myself though (because I don't have any whaler board) and I even got myself a plug cutter for just the reason JB mentioned.
Wayneman posted 11-28-2001 09:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Wayneman  Send Email to Wayneman     
Hey JoeM; Does your boat have the original wooden console and if so are you going to replace it?
joem posted 11-29-2001 09:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for joem  Send Email to joem     
It didn't come with the original console it got crushed when the previous owner transported the boat one year I have had a new one built. I am replacing a plywood console that was in it the boat. The boat itself looked like a oyster boat not a boston whaler.

joem

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