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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Steering Wheel Removal
|Author||Topic: Steering Wheel Removal|
posted 11-26-2001 10:14 PM ET (US)
I am getting reacquainted with my 1982 15' sport. I want to redo the wood this winter and cannot figure out how to get the steering wheel off. I have removed the center piece of wood and unscrewed the 1" bolt and washer. What next? Thanks, JZ
|Tom W Clark||
posted 11-26-2001 10:22 PM ET (US)
The wheel just comes off. Well, actually it typically comes off only with some effort. They are usually really stuck on there and a gear puller is the appropriate tool to use. But before you do that put some penetrating oil on the shaft overnight. Something like WD-40 or Liquid Wrench or anything you have. Rent a gear puller if you don't own one or buy a cheap one (it will be adequate for this purpose).
posted 11-27-2001 09:01 AM ET (US)
I agree with Tom, but I'll offer an interim step you might try before you buy a wheel puller - put the penetrating oil on overnight, but before you head for Autozone, re-thread the nut onto the shaft, and turn it in so it is flush with the end of the shaft, or just a little less than flush (end of shaft is just below the outside face of the nut), then have one person take a steady strain on the wheel trying to pull it off the shaft, while you tap on the nut/end of the shaft with a hammer. This will often times allow the wheel to come loose.
Doesn't work, no harm no foul, go get the wheel puller.
posted 11-27-2001 11:07 AM ET (US)
One addition to the method Kingfish described.
Use a rubber mallet or a block of wood between the nut and the hammer.
posted 11-27-2001 11:53 AM ET (US)
Will that hammering effect the clutch in the NFB steering box?
posted 11-27-2001 01:56 PM ET (US)
Should'nt affect the NFB but be carefull you don't rip the console out:)
posted 11-27-2001 02:47 PM ET (US)
I like BS's answer; I'm not talking about "hammering" though, but "tapping", and not with a 32 oz. framing hammer, but with a regular, laying around the house type hammer of the 16 oz. or so variety. If the tapping doesn't do it, *don't* get a bigger hammer. Go to Autozone and get that gear puller.
posted 11-27-2001 08:16 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the helpful tips. I will give wd 40 time to work and then try your suggestions. I'll let you know.
posted 11-27-2001 10:13 PM ET (US)
DON'T HIT THE NUT OR THE STUD! Put a socket OVER the stud to protect it, then hit on the end of the shaft directly. As an alternative, after you've broken the stud, you can drill and tap the end of the shaft to use a bolt to hold the wheel on. You can trust me when I tell you I'm an expert on this procedure! :)
posted 11-27-2001 11:48 PM ET (US)
Get the gear puller. You don't need a fancy titanium gear puller used on military helicopter rotor hubs.
Get a made-in-China crappy gear puller produced by the "Happy-Lucky Horse Dragon Pot Metal Casting Industry Company Ltd." for $9 at the auto part store.
posted 11-28-2001 09:05 AM ET (US)
What in the world did you whack that shaft with, an 8# maul?
I have used the method I describe above on five different boats, literally dozens of times, and the worst thing I have ever suffered is dinging one part of the leading thread over a little from having the nut turned in a smidgeon too far and not hitting the end of the shaft squarely. Because the nut was already threaded on, all that meant was backing it out and turning it forward again a few times, and all was well.
I have yet to need a wheel puller.
Follow your own star, jimmyz, I doubt you'll go wrong with either method.
posted 12-03-2008 02:41 PM ET (US)
[Revived a seven-year-old discussion.]
I went to a local auto supply store and rented a gear puller. It was pretty cheap. It was so easy to use. The wheel came off in seconds!
posted 12-04-2008 01:05 AM ET (US)
The process of removing a steering wheel using a gear puller is described and illustrated in an article in the REFERENCE section. See
posted 12-04-2008 07:15 AM ET (US)
My 1976 Sport 15 wheel was stuck fast. Saltwater boat.
WD-40 does not have much penetrating capability. The WD stands for "Water Dispersement".
PB Blaster works much better. It smells to high heaven but is very effective.
I let mine soak (some spray on top of the hub) for a few days at it popped off easily.
Always gease the hub with Lithium (waterproof) grease when you reinstall. I use the same grease on prop. shafts.
posted 12-04-2008 09:01 AM ET (US)
Just took mine off the other night. Nothing, but nothing would move the wheel until I borrowed a gear puller from a neighbor. With the right tool it popped off instantly.
posted 12-04-2008 04:02 PM ET (US)
I have a "gear puller" but I didn't find it neccesary, unless it just won't budge.
I coated mine with PB and after a week, it just "popped off" with gentle hits from my wrists-upwards.
If it is stuck-fast. It's time to invest in an entire new steering system.
Although mine came loose, I decided on an entire new system.
I just wish I'd gone-hydraulic.
posted 12-04-2008 07:44 PM ET (US)
I'm in the process of converting a 15 to a CC. Why do you think it was a mistake to have gone without the hydraulics? I've had SeaStar for 10 years in my SeaCraft 20 and would not have changed a thing. Not a problem yet. But my 1982 15 Sport I redid in 2005 steers like a dream with standard cable steering, and anticipate the same with my 1988. Just curious. Thanks. zotcha.
posted 12-04-2008 09:52 PM ET (US)
We've talked about the CC conversion.
After having run a couple of boats with Hydraulic, I can say there is no comparison.
"Mistake" may be a bit broad but if I had to do it over again-hydraulic.
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