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  Connecting electrical wire in deck tunnel?

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Author Topic:   Connecting electrical wire in deck tunnel?
specktrout posted 12-04-2001 09:43 PM ET (US)   Profile for specktrout   Send Email to specktrout  
I have an 89 Montauk and it can be a wet ride in big waves. I am planning on installing a bilge pump in the rear of the deck tunnel. Since the tunnel often has a small amount of standing water in it while being stored, I am interested in opinions on the best way to connect electrical wire to the wires provided on the pump. I would hate to get a short over time. Thanks-
JBCornwell posted 12-04-2001 09:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Ahoy, Specktrout.

Strip about 1/2", wrap the wires axially and solder. Clean off any remaining flux. Seal with shrink tubing and then dip in liquid electrical tape.

If the circuit ever fails it will fail somewhere else.

Red sky at night. . .
JB :)

Tom W Clark posted 12-04-2001 10:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
two good ways:

1) Do as JB suggests, solder and heat shrink the joint but use adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing.

2) Use waterproof butt connectors. These are butt connectors that are housed in piece of adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. Anchor makes these and they are all but fool-proof.

triblet posted 12-04-2001 10:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
I'm with Tom on the hot-melt-glue-lined
heat shrink. Great stuff. But it's made
by Ancor, not Anchor.

And if the boat isn't prewired, run Ancor
marine grade cable through the tunnel. Use
two conductor, 16 ga. Three conductor if
you will have a float switch.

The Rule 500 gph smart pumps will fit very
nicely. Be sure to clean the screen
periodically (annually for me, YMMV).

Chuck

Tom W Clark posted 12-04-2001 11:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Chuck, I stand corrected. I've made that mistake before and realized it. I will probably make it again. Old habits die hard.
andygere posted 12-05-2001 11:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
I've had good luck with the solder/heat shrink/liquid electrical tape method described above. I'd run new wires in the tunnel. When I pulled mine, I found a hidden splice that was about to fail.
Mort posted 12-05-2001 08:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for Mort  Send Email to Mort     
I have had a Rule 500 smart pump on my Cohasset for five years. The connection is soldered, then heat shrink with a covering of liquid electrical tape. When I rewired the boat for a new engine this summer I ran a new wire for the pump and that connection was almost as good as the day it was done. The boat is on a mooring in salt water all summer.
Steve Leone posted 12-10-2001 05:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
I agree the Marine Grade heat shrink is wonderful stuff. Soldering is a good idea also. I take the metal centers (ferules) out of the insulated butt connectors and solder the wire ends into it. The heat shrink goes on first of course. A rule auto-switch can be tie-strapped to the top of the 500 gph bilge pump with little effort. As long as the battery has juice you`re in business. Steve out.

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