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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Connecting electrical wire in deck tunnel?
|Author||Topic: Connecting electrical wire in deck tunnel?|
posted 12-04-2001 09:43 PM ET (US)
I have an 89 Montauk and it can be a wet ride in big waves. I am planning on installing a bilge pump in the rear of the deck tunnel. Since the tunnel often has a small amount of standing water in it while being stored, I am interested in opinions on the best way to connect electrical wire to the wires provided on the pump. I would hate to get a short over time. Thanks-
posted 12-04-2001 09:59 PM ET (US)
Strip about 1/2", wrap the wires axially and solder. Clean off any remaining flux. Seal with shrink tubing and then dip in liquid electrical tape.
If the circuit ever fails it will fail somewhere else.
Red sky at night. . .
|Tom W Clark||
posted 12-04-2001 10:31 PM ET (US)
two good ways:
1) Do as JB suggests, solder and heat shrink the joint but use adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing.
2) Use waterproof butt connectors. These are butt connectors that are housed in piece of adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. Anchor makes these and they are all but fool-proof.
posted 12-04-2001 10:55 PM ET (US)
I'm with Tom on the hot-melt-glue-lined
heat shrink. Great stuff. But it's made
by Ancor, not Anchor.
And if the boat isn't prewired, run Ancor
The Rule 500 gph smart pumps will fit very
|Tom W Clark||
posted 12-04-2001 11:09 PM ET (US)
Chuck, I stand corrected. I've made that mistake before and realized it. I will probably make it again. Old habits die hard.
posted 12-05-2001 11:10 AM ET (US)
I've had good luck with the solder/heat shrink/liquid electrical tape method described above. I'd run new wires in the tunnel. When I pulled mine, I found a hidden splice that was about to fail.
posted 12-05-2001 08:35 PM ET (US)
I have had a Rule 500 smart pump on my Cohasset for five years. The connection is soldered, then heat shrink with a covering of liquid electrical tape. When I rewired the boat for a new engine this summer I ran a new wire for the pump and that connection was almost as good as the day it was done. The boat is on a mooring in salt water all summer.
posted 12-10-2001 05:00 PM ET (US)
I agree the Marine Grade heat shrink is wonderful stuff. Soldering is a good idea also. I take the metal centers (ferules) out of the insulated butt connectors and solder the wire ends into it. The heat shrink goes on first of course. A rule auto-switch can be tie-strapped to the top of the 500 gph bilge pump with little effort. As long as the battery has juice you`re in business. Steve out.
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