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Advice on raising CC on 19` Outrage
|Author||Topic: Advice on raising CC on 19` Outrage|
posted 12-18-2001 10:02 AM ET (US)
I`m thinking about raising my center consoe on my 19` 1976 Outrage. I`ve seen the pictures on the forum of some boats that have this modification. I would plan to use Starboard for the risers. I was wondering if the thing to do is fasten the risers, making those holes offset from the CC holes, to the deck,and then secure the CC to the starboard? Or are there long enough bolts available to just use the CC holes for both? And 1 final question- what`s the highest anyone has raised their console. Thanks, Outraged
posted 12-18-2001 01:12 PM ET (US)
Be careful raising the cc too high, you may need a longer steering cable and wires. I just finished a "box" that will attatch where my windshield goes. Its about 12in high and will block the wind up to my chin (5'-7"). The box is designed so the windshield sits on top of the box.
posted 12-18-2001 02:32 PM ET (US)
I have raised the standard (Montauk style) consoles on both of my Outrages 4", and I think it is a super detail. I would highly recommend it. I used teak, oiled, screwed into the original holes in the floor.
Then the console is screwed into the teak. This avoided the need to locate #14
5 1/2" long SS screws. After 12 years, the console is still solid as a rock.
My detail was as follows: The risers are 3" wide, mostly for stability, and consist of 3 pieces of teak, eliminating the need for laminations. There are two base blocks, 3" wide x 4" long (front to back direction) and 2 1/2" high (thick). I was able to find teak of this thickness, fortunately. These are screwed into the floor, in the old holes, at the front and back of the riser. The open space in the middle exposes a few of the original screw holes, which I countersunk and put replacement screws in flush with the top of the floor. Then a "beam", 1 1/2" high (thick) x 3" wide by ? length is mounted on top of the two blck risers, spanning them, and making the ledge for the console to sit on. The aluminum angles of the console are then screwed to this, using the original floor mount screws. All exposed edges, except the underside of the beams, are rounted with a 1/4" 45 degree bevel. it looks "factory" when completed.
An additional nice feature of this detail is the new space gained under the console, now useable for cushions, lifejackets or fenders, etc. It also allows you to put a larger size, and higher, Igloo cooler seat in front of the console, providing more storage and a more comfortable seat for two.
The "catch" on this is that once you raise the console, the RPS, or pilot chairs, will be WAY too low. They too should be raised 4" or 6". I have used the 6" dimension. Then you can put a 72 qt Igloo, with tan pleat cushion, under it, sitting on Whaler's Montauk cooler cleats.
If you want to see these details in person, you can make a drive over to the big city, and see the 18 Outrage first hand, in it's garage for the winter!
posted 12-18-2001 04:39 PM ET (US)
Having seen LHG's rig, I really liked the various aspects he described above, and I raised the console on my Outrage 22 by 4-1/2". I didn't have a pilot seat, but a leaning post that already had room under it for a cooler, and I wound up lowering it by about 2-1/2", so I can sit on top of the padded section of the leaning post and still have the protection of the windshield. For my purposes, it's a great setup.
posted 12-19-2001 09:05 AM ET (US)
Thanks to everyone for your feedback on this.
lhg, the set-up you describe sounds like the way to go. I have a question on the mounting of the "beam" to the risers. How many screws did you use in each end of the "beam" to secure it to the risers?
Also, I am going to change my helm seat set-up as well.I`m about 6`4" and I want to be able to stand and run the boat comfortably from this position. I`m thinking a leaning post might be a possibilty to replace my helm seat, which is in need of some serious TLC.
posted 12-19-2001 01:04 PM ET (US)
I too, raised my console about 4". Same concept as Larry, but slightly different materials. While his is oiled teak, I used four 1" sections of mahogany, a cheaper wood. I used this, because the beam, once epoxyed and coated with two coats of West epoxy, was then painted to match the color of the console. I wanted to avoid having to oil the teak.
For mounting, I used eight or ten (I think) wood screws, countersunk about 2 inches into the beam, that was bedded in 3M 5200 for a very secure and waterproof bond. I offset the screws, as not to used the old mounting holes in the floor. Then added epoxy into the countersunk holes, to prevent moisture from entering those holes.
The console was mounted to the beams, using about 1/3 more screws.... I can't remember what size screws were used.
Best - Don
PS - If you need, I can email some closeups to you.
posted 12-19-2001 02:10 PM ET (US)
Don,thanks for the info,and if you could E-mail me some close-ups, that would be great. Outraged
posted 12-19-2001 02:53 PM ET (US)
Outraged - I think I have the top beams screwed into the bottom 3 x 4 blocks with 4 screws. But with the console in place, these do not show.
I am 6-2, so considering your height, I would raise the RPS 6", like I did, if you're going to keep it.
posted 12-19-2001 03:02 PM ET (US)
posted 12-19-2001 03:08 PM ET (US)
John, that'll be $10, please.
posted 12-20-2001 10:12 AM ET (US)
tried to sent some photos....your posted email is not correct/current....your call.
posted 12-20-2001 08:29 PM ET (US)
Don,sorry about that. I just checked my profile & my E-mail address is not right. The correct address is email@example.com. If youhave the time to send them again, please do. Thanks- Outraged
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