Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
posted 12-26-2001 03:33 AM ET (US)
Could someone tell me if a closed cell foam is definetly waterproof. I read about some foam products in a book and will probably be using some form of foam this spring. Due to the amount of old screw holes in the interior of my 13', it seems likely there is some water saturation. From reading some of the postings I have devised a plan to deal with the foam and the old screw holes.
1. Bore the holes out with a larger drill bit.
2. Manipulate the foam out of the hull with a screw driver and vacum. Hopefully any water saturation is only in the imediate area.
3. Inject new foam into the screw hole and let it expand on to the deck. Which will have a relese wax covered with plastic apllied to it.
4. Counter sink the foam and add a little resin to seal the it.
5. Apply release wax to the non-skid and use either polyester or epoxy resin to make a mold of the non skid.
6. Apply release wax to the mold of the non skid.
7. Put a generous amount of gel coat over the repair and push the mold into the gel coat and allign it with the surrounding non-skid. The resin mold will have small hole through it to allow the excess gelcoat some place to go.
8. Scrub the area withe soap and water and hopefully it will blend in over time.
If anyone has any suggestions about this plan, pleas let me know. I thought this up from postings on the forum and some books.
Thanks for any input,
posted 12-26-2001 06:45 AM ET (US)
The amount of foam that your wanting to replace is almost unmeasureable. I think it would be a much simpler to mix some "Marine Tex" and tint it the color you need, mask off the screw hole area, fill with M/T.
After it begins to cure you can remove the tape and trowel the ridges in to the repair. If you only have screw holes to fill I don't think it will be noticeable if you trowel in the ridges yourself. Maybe use a comb fot this.. Hope this helps
posted 12-26-2001 10:16 AM ET (US)
The foam directly under the screw holes seems to be saturated with water. A brownish liquid that smells like vinegar comes out of the hole sometimes. Someone explained what that stuff was a while back, but i don't remember what it is. I planned on opening the holes up pretty wide. In order to gain access to the foam.
posted 12-26-2001 10:39 AM ET (US)
These holes are in the floor,,, how many,,try one first and see if you like the results,,,i usualy just fill screw holes with wooden dowels, 5 min epoxy, and marine tex over color to match (dont use too much color) mine is desert tan, verry small holes that arent going to be used again just get marine tex,if it is a smooth surface, wet your finger with saliva and rub to a final glossy finish,,,
posted 12-26-2001 07:24 PM ET (US)
Sinclair7 I just went through and entire interior redo I had a lot of wet foam I ended cutting flooring and foam out until I didn't find anymore wet foam in the different spots. It did stop saturating in those spots in my boat. Then I would foam first and then use mat glass for strength. I repeated this process through each spot until the boat was done. I do have a different case I am totally re-gel coating I have never tried to match gel-coat? I hope it was of some help.
posted 12-29-2001 11:31 PM ET (US)
What kind of whaler do you have? I thought I read something about someone cutting the floor out of their Whaler. I'd like to cut the floor of my 13 and glass in a solid material so i could screw in a center console. Last summer i posted a few questions about attaching a center console. The winter stopped any work on my boat, but I will start again in the spring. Would cutting the floor on a 13 cause the hull to loose shape?
posted 12-30-2001 12:49 AM ET (US)
Sinclair7 if you look at the diagram for your boat you will see were the wood is . I had to cut part of the floor were the wood was and replace the wood and glasss over it in order to attach my console and seat the wood was old and somewhat rotted. I don't know were the wood is located in a 13 foot but the wood diagrams are located on the site. If this helps.
I have a 1965 Sakonett.
posted 12-30-2001 12:54 AM ET (US)
Sinlair7 I do know from reading through a lot of these threads that pulling your floor ruins the strength of the whaler hull. It isn't reccommended and that you really need to know what you are doing in order to attempt to do that. I don't have the experience to do that.
posted 12-30-2001 10:10 AM ET (US)
Sinclair I put a console on my 13' and cut 4x4x6in holes in floor, put in oak blocks embedded in epoxy and replaced the original 4x6 glass tops,matched edges with Marine Tex & colored dye,,,the wood will never pull out..I also use dowels behind any screws i put into the boat,,,,
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