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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
hard vs black rollers
|Author||Topic: hard vs black rollers|
posted 01-01-2002 07:37 AM ET (US)
My trailer has the black rollers for my Montauk. The rollers look a little 'compressed' where they contact the keel, especially the one under the bow. They don't roll real easy when you are launching or winching it up, but I wonder if they afford a certain 'give' when the trailer hits a bump on a rough road.
Or maybe I just need to lube the shaft of each roller with silicone grease or such.
posted 01-01-2002 09:02 AM ET (US)
I recommend replacing all your black rollers with new amber colored Stoltz rollers that are available at any big marine store.
They have some give, are non marking, and hold up better than the black ones. They also have a new style larger 3 piece bow stop roller that really centers and protects the bow. When you replace them all inspect the shafts and replace any that are worn or corroded and apply marine grease to the shafts. I guarantee you'll be pleased with these rollers and the results. Mark
posted 01-01-2002 09:13 AM ET (US)
Happy new Year, Simon.
Mark is right on the mark. :)
I replaced all of the black rollers under my Montauk with amber. A great improvement, but not cheap.
Red sky at night. . .
posted 01-01-2002 11:14 AM ET (US)
Big difference in making the change. The amber rollers are much harder and roll much easier than the standard black ones.
Happy New Year all!!!!!!!
Spring must be coming along soon.
posted 01-01-2002 12:42 PM ET (US)
All these guys are right. With my old '82 Montauk, I replaced all my black rollers with the Stoltz. I also replaced all the shafts so it wouldn't become the "next project". They do cost more, but I installed the Stoltz, kept them lubed, and did nothing else to them for 7 years. They're worth the extra cost.
posted 01-01-2002 01:19 PM ET (US)
As long as you are going to replace the keel rollers with the Stoltz put on one of their bow stops as well. Keeps those nasty black marks off of the bow.
posted 01-01-2002 08:00 PM ET (US)
How did you know I had those?
posted 01-01-2002 08:43 PM ET (US)
Don't forget the stainless steel shafts.
The SS shafts will have to be drill and
cotter keys installed.
The stoltz rollers and SS shafts will out
last your trailer.
posted 01-01-2002 11:59 PM ET (US)
The popularity of the amber colored STOLTZ rollers has spawned imitators. The original STOLTZ products have their name molded into the roller.
posted 01-02-2002 08:33 AM ET (US)
Dittos all above! This is a great time to check alignment of rollers. Suggestion: install front roller and rear roller at present height and loosen brackets of all intermediate rollers and drop to lowest height; now put boat on trailer (supported by only the front and rear roller); now jack up the intermediate roller/brackets until contact is made with keel and then snug them up firmly! now the rollers fit the hull shape exactly and no one roller is carrying too much or too little weitht... prevents hull damage. Hopefully this was done when new! Oh yes, loosen bunks and drop down during this process and lastly raise bunks until they are snug and keep hull from rocking as bunks should really carry no hull weight! I'll send you some band-aids and some Liquid Wrench... ouch! Happy trailering.. Clark... Skinned Knuckles Division of Spruce Creek Navy
posted 01-02-2002 12:03 PM ET (US)
I used Clark's technique when I replaced all my rollers last year--works like a charm. One last bit of advice: Spend the extra cash for stainless mounting hardware. When you need to make adjustments or repairs, it's much easier than breaking the old hardware off. Even the galvy stuff gets rusty on the threads to the point of being useless.
posted 01-02-2002 12:04 PM ET (US)
How much would it cost to replace 3 rollers with Stoltz and SS shafts? My Caulkins has 2 keel and the bow roller.
posted 01-02-2002 01:16 PM ET (US)
$100 or less... Depends which size rollers you need. 12" run around $30 and SS shafts are another $10 or so...
posted 01-02-2002 07:03 PM ET (US)
Right. My trailer has three rollers, so I'll use the technique above. By the way, that rear roller really carries a lot of weight!
Would a place like West Marine have the ss shafts? I have seen the rollers there last summer.
I may wait till I go to the Maine Boatbuilders Show in February and visit Hamilton Marine in Portland. Trouble is I'd like to get something sooner.
posted 01-04-2002 07:58 PM ET (US)
Consider doubling up the rollers on each crossmember (one on each side), particularly at the transom. Always use the 12" rollers if possible. Winching on, floating on, driving on, etc will be a dream.
The SS shafts, which were recommended to me by the Stolz people, are only available at Ames Trailer in Ft Lauderdale, almost across the street from the Stoltz plant, or Champion trailer, referenced elsewhere on this site.
For aligning keel rollers properly, find the most forward roller where the keel is still straight, then get the boat off the trailer, then tie a taught string across the front and transom roller, and bring all the intermediate rollers up to it. Your keel rollers will then form a straight bed for the hull to rest on.
The best prices I have found for Stoltz rollers is Shoreway marine, but some of the others will match their pricing. So get one of their catalogs first.
posted 01-04-2002 11:54 PM ET (US)
Tsuriki, my Caulkins trailer also only came with 2 black keel rollers and a bow stop. I was almost impossible to get the boat off of the trailer without sinking the trailer.
I didn't much care for the fact that the keel was only supported in 2 places: the transom and just under the helm.
I added 4 more cross members to the trailer and I attached 1 Stoltz roller to each crossmember. I also replaced the original black rollers with Stoltz rollers. Now the boat glides on and off of the trailer with ease. Instead of using stainless roller pins, I bought 5/8" stainless bolts and lock nuts. Had I known about the stainless pins, I would probably have bought them instead.
I didn't replace the black bow stop because I felt the black rubber was softer than the hard yellow and that it would cushion the boat more. That bow stop has been in use for 10 years now and it has never left a mark on the boat. I cannot explain why some black stops leave marks and others don't.
Other posts here are right: Make sure you get the Stoltz brand. There is a difference!
posted 01-05-2002 10:02 AM ET (US)
Great discussion as I need a new trailer for my Newport.
How many keel rollers (cross members) should I have on the new trailer? How big should the bunks be?
Should the very aft roller sit directly underneath the edge of the transom to support the engine, or is it okay of the very aft roller to be 6-8 inches forward of the transom?
What's the point of the rod that extends from the tilted up engine to the trailer that I see bass boater use?
Thanks for the help.
posted 01-05-2002 01:49 PM ET (US)
Jay, the trailer under my Eastport has 6 keel rollers with the last roller sitting directly under the transom. The bunks are carpeted 4" X 4" pressure treated lumber about 40" long. I believe the rod that extends from the motor to the trailer is called a transom saver and is used to support the motor weight while towing. I don't know if this is really the recommended setup but it has worked well for me.
posted 01-05-2002 06:05 PM ET (US)
Whaler wants that last roller to be directly under the transom.
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