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Author Topic:   Mounting refinished teak
ratherwhalering posted 01-17-2002 04:39 PM ET (US)   Profile for ratherwhalering   Send Email to ratherwhalering  
I am just finishing the sanding process of all the wood on my Montauk, and will soon be varnishing with the helpful tips from Outrageman's article and the comments in this forum.
My question is geared to the holes from the mounting screws in the wood console pieces. (ie. the hatch and extinguisher frames) These seem like they will fill up with 10 coats of varnish. In addition, the beveled screw heads look like they would go right through my new varnish before seating in their old positions, flush with the wood. A friend sugguested plugging the old holes with teak dowels, and back mounting with wood screws from inside the console. Another friend suggested crown washers to keep the heads of the screws flush with the last varnish layer. Any helpful tips and comments are appreciated!

--Rob--

Denny posted 01-17-2002 05:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for Denny  Send Email to Denny     
The problem with varnish is that you need to prevent water from getting between the wood and the varnish. If that happens you will get release of the bond between the them and geat flaking of the varnish. You can do a couple of things: 1. Varnish to your hearts content then set in the hardwear. 2. Varnish and drill a small hole through the original one and set the screw. I've had a classic wooden boat for 14 years and haven't had a problem with the reseting of varnished items. Water is the thing that can kill your work. Good luck with the varnish.

Denny

lhg posted 01-17-2002 06:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
This comment is somewhat related. I have found that the usual Whaler finishing rings, under screws in varnished components, cuts the varnished surface with their sharp edges as the screw is tightened down.

Once cut, as mentioned, the varnish goes bad, and the wood gets black, around these finishing washers. I have discovered that using a same screw # fender washer under the trim ring, solves the problem, preventing the trim ring from cutting the varnish. Looks nice also.

Regarding the console frames, I think I would not let the varnish build up in the countersunk holes, then re-drill the hole so it's clean before installing. Then push screw in, but not turn it, instead drawing it in by the nut behind. This should create a nice water tight seal as the screw head compresses any varnish in the countersink.

ratherwhalering posted 01-17-2002 09:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
I like the two washer idea for the areas that have originally had finishing washers, and will try it. On the console framing, I think I'll put in teak plugs and sand smooth before varnishing, then backmount through the console. No holes in front to worry about.
Arch Autenreith posted 01-18-2002 12:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
RW.

I also liked Larry's suggestion with the washers under the finishing rings and have used that other places now also.

For some reason which I can't remember now I didn't do that on the consol frames. I used a 1/4" forstner bit and drilled in just a smidgeon to give then a flat bottom vs. countersunk. See, the frame in at least one hole started splitting just a little because of the countersunk heads. So I used non-countersunk (can't remember what they're called specifically at the moment) bolts. About $3 for the 12-16 of them at West Marine. Now they can be tightened a little more without the worry of starting to split. Oh, now I remember. I couldn't find finishing washers that size. (real small.)

I also didn't bother getting the varnish in the holes after the first coat or two so it wouldn't build up too much. I figured 1-2 coats under the bolt heads was enough.

I also happened to (forstner-bit) the holes in the teak that cover the screws at the base of the consol. Now the screw heads are flush. That's a little anal I guess but I did it that way anyhow.

Arch

Arch Autenreith posted 01-18-2002 12:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for Arch Autenreith  Send Email to Arch Autenreith     
I forgot. I don't know about your frames but mine are too thin to plug and screw from behind. 3/8 inch thick? There's not enough purchase, me thinks.

Arch

bdb posted 01-18-2002 08:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for bdb  Send Email to bdb     
Like Larry I have used a washer under the trim ring. But I used rubber. A good grip and a soft contact on the varnish.

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