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Author Topic:   Montauk Drain Tube Length

Moby posted 01-29-2002 04:10 PM ET (US)
I am replacing the lower stern drain tube on my newly acquired ’77 Montauk. I’ve purchased a new tube from BW ($13.00), but it needs to be cut to length. When using the BW flaring tool, about how much extra tube length do I need to leave outside the hull to allow for the round-over (flare) of the end? I've searched previous threads, but haven't found this info yet.
Outraged posted 01-29-2002 04:50 PM ET (US)
Go back 1 year in the previous posts, to the one titled "Drain Tubes" 10-14-2001,and you'll find a good discussion on them. Outraged
LarrySherman posted 01-29-2002 05:05 PM ET (US)
I would not use the soft-metal tube for the stern tube. BW makes a plastic two part snap together stern tube replacement part that the use in the new boats. I put it in my 81 Outrage, and it works like a champ.
You'll find the info in the posts from last summer.
dburton posted 01-29-2002 07:11 PM ET (US)
Here is the thread that you are looking for:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000062.html
Moby posted 01-29-2002 07:34 PM ET (US)
Thanks, all. I must have missed it earlier! I'll leave about 3/8".
whalerron posted 01-30-2002 10:17 PM ET (US)
Is it true that, with an older boat, you need to enlarge the transom hole before the plastic tube will fit in it?
The flaring tool is available from Hamilton Marine
www.hamiltonmarine.com
Arch Autenreith posted 01-30-2002 10:42 PM ET (US)
whalerron
I put the plastic tubes in my '84 Montauk and used a forstner bit to enlargen the holes. Once you go through the transom the bit isn't long enough so you have to use an extension to get to the other hole at the back of the tunnel. You have to be mindful of centering on the second hole because you can't 'see' where the bit is going so you have to drill a little and use a light to see how close you are to center and adjust as needed before drilling all the way through. (A 90degree drill or adaptor would work well also but I don’t have one.)
I never saw any instructions for installation but I felt the small 'teeth' on the tubes/caps were inadequate to hold while curing. After cutting the tube 1/4 inch shorter and coating with 5200, I used a long piece of all-thread with nuts and washers to squeeze and hold the end caps on the tube until cure.
Hope this helps.
Arch

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Author	Topic: Montauk Drain Tube Length
Moby	posted 01-29-2002 04:10 PM ET (US) I am replacing the lower stern drain tube on my newly acquired ’77 Montauk. I’ve purchased a new tube from BW ($13.00), but it needs to be cut to length. When using the BW flaring tool, about how much extra tube length do I need to leave outside the hull to allow for the round-over (flare) of the end? I've searched previous threads, but haven't found this info yet.
Outraged	posted 01-29-2002 04:50 PM ET (US) Go back 1 year in the previous posts, to the one titled "Drain Tubes" 10-14-2001,and you'll find a good discussion on them. Outraged
LarrySherman	posted 01-29-2002 05:05 PM ET (US) I would not use the soft-metal tube for the stern tube. BW makes a plastic two part snap together stern tube replacement part that the use in the new boats. I put it in my 81 Outrage, and it works like a champ. You'll find the info in the posts from last summer.
dburton	posted 01-29-2002 07:11 PM ET (US) Here is the thread that you are looking for: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000062.html
Moby	posted 01-29-2002 07:34 PM ET (US) Thanks, all. I must have missed it earlier! I'll leave about 3/8".
whalerron	posted 01-30-2002 10:17 PM ET (US) Is it true that, with an older boat, you need to enlarge the transom hole before the plastic tube will fit in it? The flaring tool is available from Hamilton Marine www.hamiltonmarine.com
Arch Autenreith	posted 01-30-2002 10:42 PM ET (US) whalerron I put the plastic tubes in my '84 Montauk and used a forstner bit to enlargen the holes. Once you go through the transom the bit isn't long enough so you have to use an extension to get to the other hole at the back of the tunnel. You have to be mindful of centering on the second hole because you can't 'see' where the bit is going so you have to drill a little and use a light to see how close you are to center and adjust as needed before drilling all the way through. (A 90degree drill or adaptor would work well also but I don’t have one.) I never saw any instructions for installation but I felt the small 'teeth' on the tubes/caps were inadequate to hold while curing. After cutting the tube 1/4 inch shorter and coating with 5200, I used a long piece of all-thread with nuts and washers to squeeze and hold the end caps on the tube until cure. Hope this helps. Arch