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  Removal of polyurethane from mahogany

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Author Topic:   Removal of polyurethane from mahogany
NCBchs posted 02-08-2002 01:10 PM ET (US)   Profile for NCBchs   Send Email to NCBchs  
Any suggestions on what should be used to remove a polyurethane finish from mahogany. I am refinishing the interior of a 15ft SSport and would like to salvage as much of the original wood as possible. Thanks
andygere posted 02-08-2002 01:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Sandpaper.
NCBchs posted 02-08-2002 01:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for NCBchs  Send Email to NCBchs     
That's the one method I was trying to avoid! Thanks
Zack posted 02-08-2002 01:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Zack  Send Email to Zack     
Try "Strip-EZE" original (pink color). Brush it on wait about 15 minutes and scrape it off. Temp needs to be above 60 deg for it to work best. I used this on the concole of the 65 that I recently did. Works easier and faster than sanding.

Zack

NCBchs posted 02-08-2002 01:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for NCBchs  Send Email to NCBchs     
Great, I'll give that a try first! Thanks
Tom W Clark posted 02-08-2002 03:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Use Jasco "Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover" not to be confused with Jasco "Paint Stripper". Other brands of strippers will work including some of the citrus strippers, but the Jasco has always been the most effective for me.

After the chemical strippers, scrape the wood down and then you sand. And sand, and sand....

SteveC posted 02-08-2002 06:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for SteveC    
I would find some way to use a belt sander. 100 or 120 grit. I originally tried using lower power sanders for my seats but it was taking forever. Using the belt sander with relatively fine abrasive makes it go very quick. One seat may take 5 or 10 minutes. The key is to keep the sander flat, keep it moving, and pay attention. This makes lots and lots of dust, so outside use with a mask is advisable. For finish, I would take a look at U.S. Paints "awl brite plus".
stagalv posted 02-09-2002 11:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for stagalv  Send Email to stagalv     
I used a very simple method: A heat gun (like a powerful blow dryer) and a scraper. First heat the area but be careful not to get it so hot it burns the wood--then use the scraper and work it back n forth to remove the old varnish. This is an easy way to remove most of the old layers of varnish without the stripper chemicals. Also be careful not to gouge the wood with the scraper. After this some sanding will be necessary to remove some residue varnish. Then I used a two part teak cleaner twice to further clean the wood. After it dries from the cleaner it is ready to sand prior to your first coat of new varnish. Rex
where2 posted 02-12-2002 05:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
Second for the belt sander and fine paper. If I were doing it again, Maybe I'd try my new random orbital sander, but realistically, the belt sander dumps alot of paper clogging debris by bending the belt.
lhg posted 02-12-2002 05:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Be sure to sand the wood down to it's original reddish color. Just getting off the varnish isn't enough, as the wood will have suffered UV bleaching underneath the varnish. This is why it gets yellow and faded. Then I strongly recommend using a mahogany oil based stain on the wood before varnishing. Besides giving it a nice rich tone, this will protect it (the underlying wood surface) from future UV damage. Your varnish job will look good for many more years, as long as you keep it recoated as necessary. Remember, a good phillipine mahogany refinish job looks dark reddish in color, a poor one looks brownish/yellowish in color.
whalerron posted 02-12-2002 11:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     
I did my seats with a belt sander. I used a low speed and 100 grit paper. I tried an orbital sander but it has a tendency to round off the edges of the wood to the point that the wood is crowned. The belt sander removes the finish very quickly and I never had to change the belt. You just need to remember to keep it moving and only sand off what is absolutely necessary. After belt sanding, I used a palm sander with 220 grit paper to get a good surface.
Duncan posted 02-13-2002 12:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for Duncan  Send Email to Duncan     
Chemicals first as above then a Random orbital Sander. If you run out and buy one get the type withthe velcro-backed sand paper discs...can change grit instantly!!

Regarding random orbital vs. Belt sanders...get some 40 grit discs (really harsh) for the RO and there'll be no purpose for a belt sander on little projects. Love my DeWalt...under $80. Grits available 40-400. Great for fiberglass work too! Just keep it moving and flat to the work surface so it doesn't dig in.

WSTEFFENS posted 02-13-2002 01:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for WSTEFFENS  Send Email to WSTEFFENS     
NCB
I would suggest taking your parts to a local profesional furniture striipper & have them tank stripped. This is very cost effective and all you have to do is bring them home, wash & dry very well and do a little sanding. This avoids all the grinding, dust, and oops I slipped with the power sander problems.

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