Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
posted 02-10-2002 10:48 PM ET (US)
Hey, what does everyone think of Marine Tex as a solution to small hull cracks in my old Nauset?
posted 02-12-2002 04:59 PM ET (US)
Properly prepared, Marine-Tex should fill any gel-coat cracks nicely. However, if there is underlying mechanical/structural problems, that's a different story.
posted 02-12-2002 05:15 PM ET (US)
Whenever I've tried to use MarineTex I end up with a gawd awful mess. Please expand on "when properly prepared". I read elsewhere that the best way to smooth out is with finger and saliva!!!
posted 02-12-2002 05:34 PM ET (US)
For only gelcoat cracks, BW recommends using gelcoat. Why not? "Vee" it out with a can opener, the apply gelcoat.
White Marine Tex is best used for filling holes, with or without chopped glass fibers being added. It works very well for filling holes, and stripped out screws in the underlying wood pads, for re-seating rails, etc., where the fitting covers the color difference. I have found it to be the consistency of marshmallow ice cream topping, and easy to work with. The water clean up is a nice feature.
posted 02-13-2002 12:18 AM ET (US)
Could someone explain exactly what marinetex is and how it is intended to be used. Is it an epoxy and how does it clean up with water?
posted 02-13-2002 12:13 PM ET (US)
Marine Tex is a two-part expoy. Comes in white and gray. You mix resin and hardener at slightly different ratios depending on the outside temperature while curing.
Great stuff! But NASTY (Messy to work with)
For small beads and hole-filling I suggest one of those Plastic "syringe" things avail @ most marinas. (Buy 'em by the dozen...useful for other gluing jobs around the house). Pull out the plunger and goop in the mixture from the back. You should know about Marine Tex if you own a boat:
posted 02-13-2002 06:51 PM ET (US)
I just don't understand why you think working with Marine-Tex is "nasty". That has not been my experience at all. To the contrary, is much easier to use than West's epoxy.
Most of the 1/4" bow rails screws were stripped in underlying wood pads on my Outrage 25, and the rail bases of the one piece SS welded rail were rust staining the gelcoat. So I removed the whole one-piece bow rail, drilled out the 3 holes under each rail base to 1/2", drilling completely through the wood pad, and then used a putty knife to pack the glass fiber impregnated white Marine tex into the holes. Easy to do, and I cleaned up each rail base with a damp sponge. No mess at all. Then I wet sanded the rail pad areas of the hull smooth, and re-buffed, then redrilled the holes, and put the rail back on with new screws. The new installation is like "factory new", and much stronger than the wood pads provided, with no strip-out. The Marine-Tex "plugs" I put in bonded to the existing glass/wood perfectly, and now I do not need to worry about water getting under the bases and rotting out the plywood.
I mixed up the Marine tex on a clear plastic "palette" that they sell for "Bondo" in an automotive store. Cleans up with water, before it hardens.
I think it is polyester based, not epoxy, but not sure.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 02-13-2002 07:25 PM ET (US)
Marine-Tex is an epoxy. It has been around for a long time and works very well. It is not the only epoxy putty out there but it is widely available at most all chandleries.
Epoxy comes in many forms. West System is but one brand of epoxy and definitely the most mentioned on this site. Other equally good brands include System Three, Cold Cure, Industrial Formulators of Canada LTD and Fiberlay. This is not an all inclusive list but merely brands which I personally have had experience.
All these manufacturers make a large variety of epoxy products with different qualities such as cure time and consistency.
I would not hesitate to use nor recommend Marine-Tex. http://www.marinetex.com/marine_tex.htm
posted 02-14-2002 12:53 PM ET (US)
By "properly prepared" I was referring to veeing out the crack if it is a crack, or using reinforcement if it is a large section to be repaired. "Small Hull Cracks" was the original definition of the repairs to be made, and w/o knowing exactly what the problem was, I gave a generic answer.
As for the Saliva trick, you can also use water on your finger to smooth it out before it hardens. The White marine-tex will yellow with UV exposure, which is not surprising considering it is an Epoxy based filler material.
Not being in the large scale repair jobs many of you have tackled, I have little use for a quart of Gelcoat in Desert Tan (or whatever shade my '85 15' Sport is). However, I can use a Quart of Marine-tex all sorts of places around the house and boat.
posted 02-14-2002 11:13 PM ET (US)
Can Marine-Tex be modified with Glass or other additives for specific applications? How does it clean up with water? I thought epoxy could only be cleaned with acetone befor it cured. Is there anything that will remove cured epoxy from gelcoat (i.e. the floor of a whaler) laugh.
posted 02-15-2002 05:43 PM ET (US)
Marine-Tex can be smoothed with a wet finger. It DOES NOT clean up with a wet finger. Cleanup is Acetone or Mineral Spirits, or Lacquer Thinner or something with guts to it and alot of hydrocarbon bonds.
posted 02-15-2002 07:18 PM ET (US)
Thank you all. This is most helpful. I noticed that I have a number of apparent moisture spots on the hull of my old 64 Nauset which has been out of the water sice Oct. Upon closer examination, I noticed that where the spots were there was a small hairline crack and the proverbial hull moisture could find it's way out.
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