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Author Topic:   Keeping Norman pin shiny

Whalerdan posted 02-28-2002 08:16 AM ET (US)
I took my Norman pin out last night and cleaned it up. Man it looks good. How can I keep it looking like this?
Whalerdan posted 02-28-2002 09:04 AM ET (US)
Looking back through the posts, I guess I should say my pin is copper not chrome. Seemed like from the discussions some people have chrome pins.
BOB KEMMLER JR posted 02-28-2002 10:00 AM ET (US)
Im not sure but maybe you could use a clear coat,like on automobile paint to seal it from the elements and keep it shiny.
Tom W Clark posted 02-28-2002 11:04 AM ET (US)
Dan,
Your norman pin is bronze, not copper. To keep it polished, you need to polish it regularly. No easy way around this fact. If your spray it with lacquer or some other clear coating (which is what the manufacturers of all that cheesy bright-brass door and cabinet hardware do) then you will end up with dark scratches at first and blotchy patches later on as the clear coating wears/sratches off unevenly. It will look like hell. My advise: Let it patina as it was meant to or invest in a can of Brasso.
Bigshot posted 02-28-2002 11:40 AM ET (US)
MaryKate on/off does a wonderful job of making that pin look new in 20 seconds.
Whalerdan posted 02-28-2002 12:15 PM ET (US)
BS, where do you find this "MaryKate on/off"? Is that a Walmart item?
Whalerdan posted 02-28-2002 12:20 PM ET (US)
Tom - Had to look up "patina". Also bronze is a copper alloy. I thought it looked like copper when it was clean.
Taylor posted 02-28-2002 12:40 PM ET (US)
Bronze alloy is significantly stronger than plain copper, also the color is different, more green/gold and less red. To keep it looking good, you might try a polish like Flitz, which I think has some wax in it to leave a coating to slow the oxidation process that causes bronze to darken.
I'm with Tom, though, I kind of like the patina of old bronze. But Tom has seen the old house I live in, and he can attest to the fact that Patina-R-us.
Whalerdan posted 02-28-2002 12:54 PM ET (US)
Point taken on the bronze copper thing. I guess next time I talk about aluminum I'll have to mention the alloy and not just say aluminum ;)
Bigshot posted 02-28-2002 03:14 PM ET (US)
Marykate on/off is a hull cleaner made by CRC. Wally-World....maybe. Any boat store will have it. About $9 for a orange colored qt.
70_Katama posted 04-17-2002 09:56 AM ET (US)
I removed the two lifting eyes and norman pin over the weeked preping for paint. The lifting eyes were pitted and dirty. I tried cleaning with poor results. I used 220 to clean them up. The exterior piece that I use as a tie down came out like new. The interior piece "eye" is bronze with a chrome dipped cover. has anyone ever had these re dipped so they look like new?
Thanks
Tom W Clark posted 04-17-2002 11:25 AM ET (US)
70_Katama,
It's no big deal to replate your hardware. Look under "plating" in your local yellow pages for a plating shop near you.
It may be a wash on price however. Buying the part new might be better, but price it out and decide.
If you want the best and don't mind shipping the part I can recommend Graves Plating in Florence, AL http://www.gravesplating.com/default.htm
70_Katama posted 04-17-2002 01:57 PM ET (US)
Thanks Tom
The parts are original and was hoping to restore them. I'll do some price checking.
Thanks
Draftmanswife posted 04-17-2002 09:57 PM ET (US)
In looking thru this thread...gents; get your wife's silverware cleaner. I tried mine, because I had nothing else in house, and it worked great!!!
70_Katama posted 04-18-2002 09:33 AM ET (US)
Mine are pitted (32 years old). There's no cleaner that can remedy that. I was quoted $50 per piece to refurb. They promised better than new. I'll probably just buy a new eye.
Thanks
maverick posted 04-19-2002 05:28 AM ET (US)
I have a 1970 13' - took pins out, put in drill motor. Spun at high speed with 400 wet/dry sandpaper, then 600 grit, then 1000 grit. Then used auto body paint polishing compound with rag. Shined up like a gold ring. I paint cars as a hobby, so i took some autobody clear coat "paint" with hardener and dipped them in it. Wow. This clear coat is also very, very tough, too. Works for me. No fading, no black marks, no nothing but gold. Mav
Whalerdan posted 04-20-2002 10:56 AM ET (US)
Mav- That's the kind of answer I was looking for in the first place! Can you get auto clear coat/hardner at the local auto parts store?
Whaler Proud posted 04-20-2002 11:15 AM ET (US)
I pulled the norman pin from my '68 Nauset last night. The chrome was pitted on one side, the other just tarnished badly. I used Mother's aluminum mag cleaner on it and was able to get a very nice shine on the remaining chrome.
I have not seen anything in the threads on norman pins as to what was original on a '68. The base metal on mine is bronze and I was wondering if bronze was stock. If so, I'd like to buff the remaining chrome off. My apolgies if this has been covered.
maverick posted 04-20-2002 10:31 PM ET (US)
Dan wrote: "Can you get auto clear coat/hardner at the local auto parts store?"
Dan - probably not, except for NAPA. Usually only auto paint places have it, and it's pricey - about $50 a gallon. If you don't want a gallon, what you may want to try is go to a paint and body place and ask to buy like 4 ounces with hardener. I have some here because I paint from time to time. Fumes are (naturally) non-friendly and a health hazard, so be careful. Once hardener is mixed, you have to use it. Mav
Tom W Clark posted 04-21-2002 01:41 PM ET (US)
Whaler Proud,
In 1968 the Norman pin was unplated bronze. It just turned brown if not polished regularly. This is the classic look. I am not sure exactly when Whaler started chroming them but if must have been after 1980.
Chrome is an extremely hard metal that needs very little cleaning/polishing to keep it bright. Bronze is a very durable metal especially in a salt water environment but it does develop a patina. I personally like the patina and never cared for the chrome, but whatever way you go it should be because that's what you like. There is no practical reason for it to be one way or the other.
Regarding clear coats, they are great up until the time they get one nick in them and then the piece of hardware in question gets a spot. Get two nicks, you've got two spots. Much of the bright brass residential hardware for sale today comes with a lacquered (or other) clear coat and it just drives me nuts! Totally unauthentic, and it looks like crap when it gets scratched and begins to break down.
As an example of this, Baldwin has an incredibly durable clear coat process they use on their bright brass products and still their stuff looks terrible after a few years of use and abuse. For a bright finish, I�d much prefer to just polish it as needed.
whalernut posted 04-21-2002 06:35 PM ET (US)
I agree Tom, I like the worn weatherd look of Bronze after time. I just bought a Bow Chock/Light from a 1968 Whaler for my 73` Currituck and it is chromed, but not shiny and has some Green look to it, not servere, but I was told to try Bronze Wool or something, maybee the green is from Saltwater, as I have never seen it on Freshwater Chrome. I am actually not going to have it re-chromed, just take the green off if possible,I like it more dull colored anyway. Jack.
maverick posted 04-21-2002 08:45 PM ET (US)
Fellas - the clear coat I mentioned is the same stuff on your late model automobile. Holds up pretty good to the elements. I added extra hardener to the batch I used on my norman pins, so scratches will be unlikely. Besides, if someone gets down that close to examine my cleats for a scratch, I'm gonna kick their ridiculous hind end overboard. Maverick.
Whaler Proud posted 04-22-2002 09:41 AM ET (US)
Thanks Tom.
Gep posted 04-22-2002 10:23 AM ET (US)
I have to agree with Tom also. I did clear coat my 1959 norman pins after extensive buffing and shining, I wish I hadn't.
I also like Mav's idea about the drill, sounds like it works pretty slick.
Mike
70_Katama posted 04-22-2002 12:00 PM ET (US)
I tried Mavs trick and it worked great! The pins looks new. I first sanded it 220 and then 400.
Thanks

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Author	Topic: Keeping Norman pin shiny
Whalerdan	posted 02-28-2002 08:16 AM ET (US) I took my Norman pin out last night and cleaned it up. Man it looks good. How can I keep it looking like this?
Whalerdan	posted 02-28-2002 09:04 AM ET (US) Looking back through the posts, I guess I should say my pin is copper not chrome. Seemed like from the discussions some people have chrome pins.
BOB KEMMLER JR	posted 02-28-2002 10:00 AM ET (US) Im not sure but maybe you could use a clear coat,like on automobile paint to seal it from the elements and keep it shiny.
Tom W Clark	posted 02-28-2002 11:04 AM ET (US) Dan, Your norman pin is bronze, not copper. To keep it polished, you need to polish it regularly. No easy way around this fact. If your spray it with lacquer or some other clear coating (which is what the manufacturers of all that cheesy bright-brass door and cabinet hardware do) then you will end up with dark scratches at first and blotchy patches later on as the clear coating wears/sratches off unevenly. It will look like hell. My advise: Let it patina as it was meant to or invest in a can of Brasso.
Bigshot	posted 02-28-2002 11:40 AM ET (US) MaryKate on/off does a wonderful job of making that pin look new in 20 seconds.
Whalerdan	posted 02-28-2002 12:15 PM ET (US) BS, where do you find this "MaryKate on/off"? Is that a Walmart item?
Whalerdan	posted 02-28-2002 12:20 PM ET (US) Tom - Had to look up "patina". Also bronze is a copper alloy. I thought it looked like copper when it was clean.
Taylor	posted 02-28-2002 12:40 PM ET (US) Bronze alloy is significantly stronger than plain copper, also the color is different, more green/gold and less red. To keep it looking good, you might try a polish like Flitz, which I think has some wax in it to leave a coating to slow the oxidation process that causes bronze to darken. I'm with Tom, though, I kind of like the patina of old bronze. But Tom has seen the old house I live in, and he can attest to the fact that Patina-R-us.
Whalerdan	posted 02-28-2002 12:54 PM ET (US) Point taken on the bronze copper thing. I guess next time I talk about aluminum I'll have to mention the alloy and not just say aluminum ;)
Bigshot	posted 02-28-2002 03:14 PM ET (US) Marykate on/off is a hull cleaner made by CRC. Wally-World....maybe. Any boat store will have it. About $9 for a orange colored qt.
70_Katama	posted 04-17-2002 09:56 AM ET (US) I removed the two lifting eyes and norman pin over the weeked preping for paint. The lifting eyes were pitted and dirty. I tried cleaning with poor results. I used 220 to clean them up. The exterior piece that I use as a tie down came out like new. The interior piece "eye" is bronze with a chrome dipped cover. has anyone ever had these re dipped so they look like new? Thanks
Tom W Clark	posted 04-17-2002 11:25 AM ET (US) 70_Katama, It's no big deal to replate your hardware. Look under "plating" in your local yellow pages for a plating shop near you. It may be a wash on price however. Buying the part new might be better, but price it out and decide. If you want the best and don't mind shipping the part I can recommend Graves Plating in Florence, AL http://www.gravesplating.com/default.htm
70_Katama	posted 04-17-2002 01:57 PM ET (US) Thanks Tom The parts are original and was hoping to restore them. I'll do some price checking. Thanks
Draftmanswife	posted 04-17-2002 09:57 PM ET (US) In looking thru this thread...gents; get your wife's silverware cleaner. I tried mine, because I had nothing else in house, and it worked great!!!
70_Katama	posted 04-18-2002 09:33 AM ET (US) Mine are pitted (32 years old). There's no cleaner that can remedy that. I was quoted $50 per piece to refurb. They promised better than new. I'll probably just buy a new eye. Thanks
maverick	posted 04-19-2002 05:28 AM ET (US) I have a 1970 13' - took pins out, put in drill motor. Spun at high speed with 400 wet/dry sandpaper, then 600 grit, then 1000 grit. Then used auto body paint polishing compound with rag. Shined up like a gold ring. I paint cars as a hobby, so i took some autobody clear coat "paint" with hardener and dipped them in it. Wow. This clear coat is also very, very tough, too. Works for me. No fading, no black marks, no nothing but gold. Mav
Whalerdan	posted 04-20-2002 10:56 AM ET (US) Mav- That's the kind of answer I was looking for in the first place! Can you get auto clear coat/hardner at the local auto parts store?
Whaler Proud	posted 04-20-2002 11:15 AM ET (US) I pulled the norman pin from my '68 Nauset last night. The chrome was pitted on one side, the other just tarnished badly. I used Mother's aluminum mag cleaner on it and was able to get a very nice shine on the remaining chrome. I have not seen anything in the threads on norman pins as to what was original on a '68. The base metal on mine is bronze and I was wondering if bronze was stock. If so, I'd like to buff the remaining chrome off. My apolgies if this has been covered.
maverick	posted 04-20-2002 10:31 PM ET (US) Dan wrote: "Can you get auto clear coat/hardner at the local auto parts store?" Dan - probably not, except for NAPA. Usually only auto paint places have it, and it's pricey - about $50 a gallon. If you don't want a gallon, what you may want to try is go to a paint and body place and ask to buy like 4 ounces with hardener. I have some here because I paint from time to time. Fumes are (naturally) non-friendly and a health hazard, so be careful. Once hardener is mixed, you have to use it. Mav
Tom W Clark	posted 04-21-2002 01:41 PM ET (US) Whaler Proud, In 1968 the Norman pin was unplated bronze. It just turned brown if not polished regularly. This is the classic look. I am not sure exactly when Whaler started chroming them but if must have been after 1980. Chrome is an extremely hard metal that needs very little cleaning/polishing to keep it bright. Bronze is a very durable metal especially in a salt water environment but it does develop a patina. I personally like the patina and never cared for the chrome, but whatever way you go it should be because that's what you like. There is no practical reason for it to be one way or the other. Regarding clear coats, they are great up until the time they get one nick in them and then the piece of hardware in question gets a spot. Get two nicks, you've got two spots. Much of the bright brass residential hardware for sale today comes with a lacquered (or other) clear coat and it just drives me nuts! Totally unauthentic, and it looks like crap when it gets scratched and begins to break down. As an example of this, Baldwin has an incredibly durable clear coat process they use on their bright brass products and still their stuff looks terrible after a few years of use and abuse. For a bright finish, I�d much prefer to just polish it as needed.
whalernut	posted 04-21-2002 06:35 PM ET (US) I agree Tom, I like the worn weatherd look of Bronze after time. I just bought a Bow Chock/Light from a 1968 Whaler for my 73` Currituck and it is chromed, but not shiny and has some Green look to it, not servere, but I was told to try Bronze Wool or something, maybee the green is from Saltwater, as I have never seen it on Freshwater Chrome. I am actually not going to have it re-chromed, just take the green off if possible,I like it more dull colored anyway. Jack.
maverick	posted 04-21-2002 08:45 PM ET (US) Fellas - the clear coat I mentioned is the same stuff on your late model automobile. Holds up pretty good to the elements. I added extra hardener to the batch I used on my norman pins, so scratches will be unlikely. Besides, if someone gets down that close to examine my cleats for a scratch, I'm gonna kick their ridiculous hind end overboard. Maverick.
Whaler Proud	posted 04-22-2002 09:41 AM ET (US) Thanks Tom.
Gep	posted 04-22-2002 10:23 AM ET (US) I have to agree with Tom also. I did clear coat my 1959 norman pins after extensive buffing and shining, I wish I hadn't. I also like Mav's idea about the drill, sounds like it works pretty slick. Mike
70_Katama	posted 04-22-2002 12:00 PM ET (US) I tried Mavs trick and it worked great! The pins looks new. I first sanded it 220 and then 400. Thanks