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Author Topic:   Awlgrip or other?
Duncan posted 03-12-2002 11:20 AM ET (US)   Profile for Duncan   Send Email to Duncan  
I have an old salvage 13 that's been reworked many times by prior owner(s). There is an extra layer of non-woven fiberglass below the waterline that someone applied. There are long stress cracks in the gelcoat on the outside freeboard which have been painted over (several times). If it were an old horse I'd take it out back and shoot it but because it's a old Whaler (a noble creature, indeed) it must be restored.

The process I think it needs is:
1. Strip paint and sand down to raw fiberglass.
2. A little fiberglass reinforcement of the sponsons and vhull to compensate for past and future beaching. Maybe Keel guard after it's done.
3. Resin or barrier coat??? (like Interlux Interprotect)
4. Compatable primer
5. Paint or re gelcoat (do it myself)
-I understand that AWLGRIP is recommended for Professional application only. Comments?
-If I shouldn't do myself, what about two part polys and epoxies? I have a cheap airless sprayer. There is no need for antifouling paint. The boat is trailered. Want a hard, slick, abrasion resistant finish.

Looking for comments on products and my "process" or any step of the process.

Expense of materials --max about $200 if I can get away with it. Thanks.

SteveC posted 03-12-2002 11:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for SteveC    
Spraying two part paints that include isocyanates (linear poly, awlgrip, etc.) is serious business, a supplied air respirator ($500+) is considered by many to be a necessity. Problems associated with exposure to this type of chemical are death by chemical pnumonia, liver failure or liver cancer. Rolling, then tipping with a form brush is safer and the result can be OK. In any case, I think the price for a "mixed quart" of awlgrip, including hardener and reducer would be above your budget of $200.

In any case, I would consider acrylic urethane rather than linear polyurethane. I've used these paints many times with OK results, they can be wet sanded and buffed after application, a real plus if working outside a spray booth.

Chesapeake posted 03-12-2002 08:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
SteveC: That is very good advice regarding Awl-grip. It is very nasty stuff.

As you indicate, linear polyurethane is not meant to be wet sanded or even polished out. I have heard that people do it with success anyway. Wonder if anyone has had success in that regard.

The advice to use something like interlux / interthane is pretty sound.

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