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Author Topic:   Help With Cost of Motor Install
caddis posted 03-13-2002 05:32 PM ET (US)   Profile for caddis   Send Email to caddis  
Okay, just got a quote of 38 labor hours (at $69.00 per) to remove the old, rig controls, gauges, etc., and install the twin F115's on my Revenge. Does this sound right? Having never done anything like this myself (and I'm not about to, either!), I don't know if this is a normal amount of time/cost.


JBCornwell posted 03-13-2002 06:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Depending on where you are, Caddis, that is either too much or obscenely too much.

Around west Texas we pay around $500 to $700 per engine to derig and rerig, with complete changeover of harness and controls. The boat is already on a trailer, so hauling and launching are not involved. That does not, of course, include any hardware.

Red sky at night. . .
JB :)

Peter posted 03-13-2002 07:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
Thirty-eight hours (a whole work week) to derig and rig two motors seems awfully high. I would think a four stroke would be easier to rig since there are no oil tanks to locate and plumb.

When I repowered my Revenge a year and a half ago I got an estimate of up to 8 hours labor for derigging and remove old 225 Johnson 225 to rig install 225 Yamaha. I can't remember the hourly rate but I believe it was somewhere in the neighborhood of $65.00 per hour.

lhg posted 03-13-2002 08:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Todd - Sounds like you're going ahead with your plans after all. Great, since we don't want to lose you from Whaler boat owners family like happened to Brian Jr.!

$2700 sounds like a bit much dollar wise. But the hours could be realistic, since you're converting from a single to twins, and changing brands at the same time.
I assume the transom glass re-work is included in this time estimate, and the new twin engine hydraulic steering work. Those Revenges can be tough to fish cables into, and we both know the instrument panel and engine controls are hard to access in yours.

I did the rigging on both of mine myself, with a helper. It does take time, and good pre-planning work in having everything you need beforehand. Doing such a conversion, and changing brands at the same time, basically means you're starting from scratch (or worse, since old holes may have to be repaired) after the old stuff has been removed (which you CAN do) and transom repaired.

Since you say you're not skilled at this work, even though it's relatively easy (the engines come with complete step by step instructions) but time consuming, you might try and find a marine rigger who will moonlight the job for you for a much smaller hourly rate, with your "gopher" help. Just get rid of the old engine & controls first, and have a glass shop re-do the transom. Then have the new engines just bolted on (are you going to use brackets?) and do the rest with your moonlighter. You could probably save $1000 to 1500. Figure out exactly what you want in terms of layout, gauge style, etc. Be sure to use a side mount hydraulic cylinder, mounted in the port engine tilt tube, between the engines.

I would try to work up as complete a list as possible of EACH and every task that needs to be done, in chronological order, and try to figure out the time and materials needed. That may at least help you determine if your dealer's time estimate is good. You'll be surprised.

Sounds like a REALLY super Revenge 22 you're going to have with those twin 4-strokes.

And congratulations to you and Deb on the soon to be new member of your family.

reelescape1 posted 03-13-2002 09:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for reelescape1  Send Email to reelescape1     
I just paid $150 to de-rig twin Evin. v-4's, $250 to the glass guy to plug those 8 holes (plus 5 screw holes) and regel the area, $350 to rig a single Yammie...oil tank under console,wire harness,binnacle,key pad...etc. Thats on an OR with transom mount.
jimh posted 03-13-2002 11:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Possible dumb question:

When you buy a new engine, does the engine maker supply mounting bolts?

I just had some re-rigging done on my twin-engine REVENGE and the stainless steel hardware ran into some significant money.

I needed 8 long 1/2-inch bolts to mount the setback brackets to the transom, then 8 more to mount the engines to the brackets. Throw in the washers and nuts, and that adds up.

On new engine installs is hardware like that provided by the engine maker or does the rigging shop have to come up with it?

whalerron posted 03-14-2002 09:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     
jimh - My brother just boat a Johnson 90 and it was shipped from the manufacturer with all of the stainless steel bolts needed to mount the motor to a transom.

- ron

Bigshot posted 03-14-2002 10:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
My New evinrude did NOT come with bolts. I have never had a new one do so. The main reason is thickness of transoms, etc. I could be wrong but I highly doubt they come with bolts. Same thing with swim platforms, had to buy bolts to go through transom.
Bigshot posted 03-14-2002 10:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
PS my bud had twin 115 Suzukis mounted on his 23 Seacraft and they deriged his 130 Yammies. $700.
caddis posted 03-15-2002 08:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for caddis  Send Email to caddis     
Thanks for all of your help here. It just keeps getting more expensive. In addition to the labor, parts are now estimated to run about $800. That is for the steering adaptor, the tiebar, and the control cables. Holy cow, we're now up to almost $3,500 just to install these things. Think I'll end up shopping around here!

It's great to hear from you again. If I sold the Revenge I would make sure to remain an owner by way of my 13' SS! I thought about brackets, but the concern is all that weight on the transom. The motors weigh 400# each. That could be a lot of stress with setbacks, but if the transom can hold it I will certainly give that a thought. Your idea of hiring a rigger makes a lot of sense, but I don't know if I am going to have a lot of spare time on my hands before summer! However, removal of the old motor and rigging should be doable. If I can get this all done, we are seriously considering the Bahama Rendezvous per your recommendation in that thread. I would fly Deb out and meet her there. Bring on the bonefish!

lhg posted 03-18-2002 09:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Jimh: All of the Mercury's I have bought come complete with 1/2 x 4" fine thread bolts, with brass lock nuts (to prevent galling). I have found that the best place to buy SS bolts like this is a good hardware store. Always less than any marine store, especially West marine.

Todd, I think all of the prices you are getting seem high, including the $800 for those parts mentioned. $450 would be more like it, and at least with Mercury, when you buy the counter-rotating engine (which costs more) they include the tie bar (which is probably why it costs more!). I would guess that Yamaha would include this item also in the price of the engine. I'd shop around a little, if possible.

hauptjm posted 03-19-2002 10:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for hauptjm    
A possible sign of the times: most dealers around here (New Orleans) will derig and rerig free of charge. Of course, you have to buy the new engine from them. Now if there is special problems involved, I'm sure there is some kind of charge. If I were buying from out of state, I'd go with the "moonlighter" idea lhg offered.
Chesapeake posted 03-19-2002 10:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Caddis: Noticed you are from Middleton. I keep my whaler up in our barn in New Glarus. When the new Yammy was installed, the prices for rigging quoted by three Madison area dealers seemed pretty high.

So, while it is a bit of a drive, I went to Jalensky's Marine in Kenosha (probably a two hour drive for you). Not only did they rig the entire boat, including all my wiring after the re-hab (bilge, 12 volt, binnacle, guages, steering cable, lights, fishfinder, VHF, etc.), but they also mounted and superbly rigged my new Yammy. Lastly, I was going to have the motor shipped to them from a boat builder friend in Florida (at a cheap price) and they matched it, just to get the unit credit with Yamaha.

They did great work and the hole thing was way below a thousand bucks. Might be worth a shot... or at least call Greg. Besides, they were about the nicest and most thoughtful people, including the mechanics, that I have ever worked with.


TightPenny posted 03-19-2002 02:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for TightPenny  Send Email to TightPenny     

The bolts which mounted my 2001 Johnson 90hp to the crate are stainless steel bolts of the proper size for mounting. These bolts were used to mount the engine to the transom of my Montauk.

Unless the other manufacturers use a different method of shipping, I would conclude that the necessary bolts come with the Engine for all the other brands.

TightPenny posted 03-19-2002 02:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for TightPenny  Send Email to TightPenny     
Oh yeah, the nuts and washers came with the bolts.

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