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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Spider cracks and fiberglass repair advice
|Author||Topic: Spider cracks and fiberglass repair advice|
posted 04-04-2002 01:09 PM ET (US)
I've got a 13' 67 boston whaler in barely useable conditions. The entire paint, interior and exterior, is covered with spider cracks. With the exception being that I coated the bottom with the ugliest brown paint when I was 16 to keep it from soaking up water. I've recently been able to get the boat to my own house and am lookign at useing it again.
Currently I am repairing a hole where the eyelett used to pull the boat on the trailer pulled through the hull after years of rattleing around in there. I'm doing a very thurough job of filling it back up with foam, reglassing it as thick as it was before useing what will come out to about 15-20 layers of fiberglass over and around the hole (waiting to cure an sand on the 10th layer right now just about to start covering a 4"x6" area with glass instead of just fillign the hole with a small amount of overlap. I've got to install a new eyelet though and will be drilling somewhere. Should I avoid the previous spot? or will it be strong enough?
Also on the spider cracks.. It so bad that in order to get rid of them I'd have to sand all paint off the boat. If I mix the paint thin enough will the filling in of these cracks be enough to give it a somewhat durable finish? The brown paint was done over the spider cracks on the bottom portion and it's really only showing the cracks in a few spots after about 5 years. Any advice on how to deal with em?
posted 04-04-2002 01:37 PM ET (US)
If the spider cracks are the result of delamination (from the interior foam) you would need to fix those areas first. For example, where cracks are in the deck and you can push down and there is 1/4+- inch give than you have delamination. You just cant paint over that because this flexibility will re-crack a fresh paint job.
Where delamintation is not apparent, if sanded and primed correctly, a 2 part paint system should give a good finish.
There are alot of recent previous post on spot repairing delaminted areas.Scroll back and youll get alot of answers
posted 04-04-2002 04:37 PM ET (US)
Nah it's on the whole thing, from being out in the sun for 20 years I believe
posted 04-04-2002 04:39 PM ET (US)
I am repairing other areas of squishyness (technical term) with the help of other posts I've read. The spider cracks was not somehting I saw other than to marine tex em in which is not a viable option for the extreme number of the cracks
posted 04-04-2002 04:46 PM ET (US)
than I would thoroughly clean (sand if need be),prime properly and use a good (awlgrip) 2 part paint system.
is awlgrip site and it is reguarded highly with the fine gentlemen addicted to this forum (God rest thier soles)
posted 04-04-2002 11:18 PM ET (US)
Is the entire boat painted?
posted 04-05-2002 09:12 AM ET (US)
Yes, the entire boat is painted, The inside was blue and the outside off white when we first recieved it 15 years ago. Now the inside is left alone and the outside is mostly brown as of 5 years ago all old paint is spider cracked to hell. The brown is not spider cracked but spider cracks are showing through from not enogh coats.
posted 04-12-2002 02:33 AM ET (US)
I just finished the interior of my 1966 Nauset which also sat out for 20+ years in the sun. I sanded the entire hull and used a dremel to chase back any larger cracks and then applied a marine filler to all areas that had cracking. The stuff is a lot like bondo and sands down easy, I used plastic squeegees for body filler to apply the marine filler. The deck I sanded smooth this takes some time. I used belt sanders for as much of the flat are as I could, and used a 4" grinder with abrasive flap disk for the rest. I then applied the filler and sanded smooth, this took the most time and material.
When you paint, make sure you apply two coats of the applicable undercoat for your brand of paint. This stuff sands extremely smooth and will fill some of the very small cracks. I had to go back and fill more cracks that I did not see until after the first coat of primer.
The deck I used Petit non slip additive, I use a salt shaker to apply the non slip to the first coat paint. This gives you more control of the amount of non slip on the surface than adding it to the paint. I used this same technique and non-slip on my old SixPac boat. The stuff is very light, similar to the glass additive for a making a putty by adding it to resin. The stuff absorbs paint, unlike sand, and after the second coat looks good and provides better traction than the origanal imprinted non slip.
Good Luck and Have Fun!
posted 04-12-2002 02:31 PM ET (US)
I've seen cars with something like this called crows feet. In the late 70's when I refinished my car, the only solution was to strip down to bare metal and start all over. Today, primer/sealers will do the trick, with a lot of sanding. The primer is very hard and has to be sanded smooth (so I'm told, I've never done it). Don't know if the same solution for boats. Otherwise, break out the sandblaster and strip down to the glass.
posted 06-23-2002 11:39 AM ET (US)
I'm 15 and I have 73 13' sport with similar cracks. On my hull they were generally stress cracks. The best way to go and do a quick but reliable job is to either run the cracks down with a dremmel tool than apply 5200 by 3m. If you have an area with fairly large sized cracks, you may want to use a product such as awl grip. If it is going to become a restoration, sand down and you may have to re apply the filler. As long as the surface is sanded and properly finished, the paint or gel coat will go on with ease. Good luck with your boat.
posted 06-24-2002 08:30 AM ET (US)
I just did my 69 Nauset, sounds veryu close to the condition of your boat. EddieS is exactly on target with his advice. The awlgrip primer and paint will not fill much in the way of cracks. A squeegie is the perfect tool to fill in the small cracks. I actually used one of those cards they give you as a key to your hotel room - I travel a lot...
The trick is patience to really get all the cracks as they will show on a new paint job.
posted 07-07-2002 01:51 AM ET (US)
Alrighty, it's going now, finnaly got it flipped over, couple questions.
Is bondo okay to refinshing small non-crucial areas?
I've got a cramped garage and can really only get to a side at a time. I'll do the painting in the lawn in one fell swoop butt he primeing and sanding takes considerably longer.
Will the primer be okay for a while exposed?
Should I reinforce the motor mount section?
posted 07-07-2002 01:53 AM ET (US)
ohh yea, and the stinking rubrail was attached with rivots. Now I've got 50 new holes to fill and the fiberglass ripped off the top in 2 spots, bondo?
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