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Author Topic:   35hp Evinrude help

Brian L posted 04-08-2002 02:15 PM ET (US)
I have bought a 1980 35hp evinrude. This guy I dont belive has winterized it and it was sitting outside. I need to replace the prop, and was looking for suggestions to get this thing ready for the water. It did fire up after about a dozen pulls, not bad. I want to get it into shape before I take it on the water. I am planning on replaceing the impeller allready, and am looking for any suggestions as to what else to replace as a precautionary practice.
Thanks again in advance
Brian

Bigshot posted 04-08-2002 03:32 PM ET (US)
Got a run on 1980's? Do the same as I said in your other post. What is this going on? If a 13' then get a 10x13 alum prop, perfect match. Make sure steering tube is clean too.
Bigshot posted 04-08-2002 03:35 PM ET (US)
PS if it still starts hard after a few hours....do a compression test. If good(even) then run some carb cleaner in the gas. Get some Berryman's B-12 or OMC 2+4 cleaner which will do the trick. You might want to decarbonize the engine now as well(both of them). There are many decarbonizers on the market....follow directions.
pamlico posted 04-08-2002 03:38 PM ET (US)
I dont know how long your engine has sat around,...but changing the water pump is a good start. You probally dont have any idea when the last time it was changed and a impellar that sits has been known to start cracking because of staying dry. Also one more thing your carburetors might need to be checked and possibly clean, the key is how long did the engine sit and how old is the gas in the bowls of the carbs. Did the previous owner drain the bowls. I do beleive Evinrude/Johnson prefer you just spray your engine storer into the carb intakes. Unlike Suzuki and other Jap models that want you to remove the main fuel line and run the bowls dry. And one way to check your carbs is to crank the engine remove the carburetor cover where you can visibly see the carburetor intakes. While the engine is idle take a rag and cover up the intake on one of your carbs if the engine dies down and is chocking for air your carb is operating properly, if the engine reaves up or there is no change in the engines sound,..it might be out of adjustment (idle air mixture screw) or clogged circuit (jet). Hope my ifo is helful,.....Happy Cruising!
Brian L posted 04-08-2002 05:24 PM ET (US)
Thanks again guys
Brian
Dr T posted 04-08-2002 11:58 PM ET (US)
If anything looks sticky in the carbs, spray GUM OUT directly in, let it sit for a couple of minutes, and then give it another shot. 2 strokes will generally start immediately--the Gum Out acts as a starter fluid (I use it on my snowblower up here).
One thing you should check very carefully is the main wiring harness (the one that goes around the backside of the engine). On my 82, the insulation dried out and cracked up the seam--On close inspection I found the entire wiring harness was so corroded that you could put it apart with your fingers. It will still conduct electricity, but the leakage in the electrical system could account for the slow starting.
If you have to change the harness, you will pay a bit for a new one. Be VERY careful in removing the old one, particularly with the heat sensor in the head.
For most uses, I agree that a 10x13 Aluminum (not OMC SS) prop is the way to go with the 13 Sport.
Good luck.

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Author	Topic: 35hp Evinrude help
Brian L	posted 04-08-2002 02:15 PM ET (US) I have bought a 1980 35hp evinrude. This guy I dont belive has winterized it and it was sitting outside. I need to replace the prop, and was looking for suggestions to get this thing ready for the water. It did fire up after about a dozen pulls, not bad. I want to get it into shape before I take it on the water. I am planning on replaceing the impeller allready, and am looking for any suggestions as to what else to replace as a precautionary practice. Thanks again in advance Brian
Bigshot	posted 04-08-2002 03:32 PM ET (US) Got a run on 1980's? Do the same as I said in your other post. What is this going on? If a 13' then get a 10x13 alum prop, perfect match. Make sure steering tube is clean too.
Bigshot	posted 04-08-2002 03:35 PM ET (US) PS if it still starts hard after a few hours....do a compression test. If good(even) then run some carb cleaner in the gas. Get some Berryman's B-12 or OMC 2+4 cleaner which will do the trick. You might want to decarbonize the engine now as well(both of them). There are many decarbonizers on the market....follow directions.
pamlico	posted 04-08-2002 03:38 PM ET (US) I dont know how long your engine has sat around,...but changing the water pump is a good start. You probally dont have any idea when the last time it was changed and a impellar that sits has been known to start cracking because of staying dry. Also one more thing your carburetors might need to be checked and possibly clean, the key is how long did the engine sit and how old is the gas in the bowls of the carbs. Did the previous owner drain the bowls. I do beleive Evinrude/Johnson prefer you just spray your engine storer into the carb intakes. Unlike Suzuki and other Jap models that want you to remove the main fuel line and run the bowls dry. And one way to check your carbs is to crank the engine remove the carburetor cover where you can visibly see the carburetor intakes. While the engine is idle take a rag and cover up the intake on one of your carbs if the engine dies down and is chocking for air your carb is operating properly, if the engine reaves up or there is no change in the engines sound,..it might be out of adjustment (idle air mixture screw) or clogged circuit (jet). Hope my ifo is helful,.....Happy Cruising!
Brian L	posted 04-08-2002 05:24 PM ET (US) Thanks again guys Brian
Dr T	posted 04-08-2002 11:58 PM ET (US) If anything looks sticky in the carbs, spray GUM OUT directly in, let it sit for a couple of minutes, and then give it another shot. 2 strokes will generally start immediately--the Gum Out acts as a starter fluid (I use it on my snowblower up here). One thing you should check very carefully is the main wiring harness (the one that goes around the backside of the engine). On my 82, the insulation dried out and cracked up the seam--On close inspection I found the entire wiring harness was so corroded that you could put it apart with your fingers. It will still conduct electricity, but the leakage in the electrical system could account for the slow starting. If you have to change the harness, you will pay a bit for a new one. Be VERY careful in removing the old one, particularly with the heat sensor in the head. For most uses, I agree that a 10x13 Aluminum (not OMC SS) prop is the way to go with the 13 Sport. Good luck.