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Author Topic:   Help with rub rail replacement
Chip posted 04-10-2002 01:45 PM ET (US)   Profile for Chip   Send Email to Chip  
I'm replacing the rub rail on my old Katama. The reference article is a great help (thanks Jim),but I have a couple of detail questions maybe someone who has attempted this job can answer. Do you recommend the supplied pop rivets or screws- if screws what size? Also, how much bend will the semi-rigid receiver track tolerate before it cracks? Thanks for any advice. By the way, the old "L-molding" on my boat is securely glued in place, probably from a previous re-fit. I'm not going to pull it off since its in good shape. Anyone want 37' of Desert Tan L-molding? I'll send it to ya!
Timo posted 04-10-2002 03:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for Timo  Send Email to Timo     
I plan on redoing mine on my 1977 Sport 15 the Friday. After researching the site, here is my plan.

1. I chose this Friday because it will be 65 degrees and sunny...figured the warmth would aid in the pliability of the plastic. I also bought a heat gun to ensure a clean tight fit at the angles.

2. I will use the rivets supplied because that is what I drilled out (and filled with West; will redrill) and if it was good enough for Whaler engineers, it will be good enough for me! In addition, I personally do not think there is enough grab with a screw in fiberglass (this has been debated on the board).

3. I will clamp every few feet, drill and rivet (pretty much follow the reference Jim has posted).

4. Not sure how the Katama bow light is wired, but I have purchased enough wire to redo the original wiring, which on the Sport runs under the black rubber insert.

5. Have scheduled 4 hours without wife or kids to interrupt; but neighbor is on standby to assist.

Also, someone suggested not doing the procedure in the garage or driveway as the plastic is quite prone to scratching; I believe "in the yard" was the suggestion which works for me.

I also hope others can add some "best practices" to this procedure.

DanT posted 04-10-2002 07:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for DanT  Send Email to DanT     
I installed a new 3 piece rub rail on my Eastport last summer. Even though it was a hot August day I still soaked the receiver track in a bathtub of hot water to soften it a bit and to help it lose the memory effect of being coiled up. I used the rivets that came with it. I began by attaching several loops of twine to the rails along the side of the boat. I used the loops to keep the rub rail off the driveway. Using a couple of clamps to hold the rub rail in position I was able to get the first few rivets in place. I then pulled the rub rail straight, drilled a hole in the very end and attached it to the back of my van using several bungee cords. This helped keep tension on the rub rail while I progressed up the side of the boat. Once at the bow I pulled the rub rail around the bow and using the bungees I attached the end to a fence post behind the boat. An extra pair of hands and the use of clamps helped form the rub rail to the curve of the bow. Once the rub rail was fastened to the bow I just continued down the other side of the boat. I took some photos during this procedure. If anyone is interested send me an email.
Gep posted 04-12-2002 08:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
I redid my rubrail on my 13' last summer. I did mine on a warm day also. The receiver track is very rigid and I had to fight it all the way. I used a heat gun around the bow. Be careful using a heat gun, I left it in one place a little too long and almost melted the track. I didn't use the rivets, I used 2 1/2" galvanized sheetrock screws and didn't predrill. I used about 10 jorgensen clamps and put the screws about 4-6 inches apart. I would clamp up about 2-3 feet at a time and move the clamps as I went along. I do have some pictures, also there might be some in the cetacea page 51.
Mike
csj posted 04-15-2002 12:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for csj  Send Email to csj     
I'm about to take on the challenge on my 22' revenge. the old rubrail is off, and I'm debating on whether to drill new holes for the rivets sent with the rail or use screws in the existing holes, or "why" can't I buy a larger rivet and use them in the existing holes from the previous holes. Please respond soon, today and tommorrow are going to be in the mid to high 80's.
acseatsri posted 04-15-2002 12:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for acseatsri  Send Email to acseatsri     
Use the rivets! They use the entire circumference of the hole to hold on and will not loosen with motion. Screws just hold on the portion of the thread contacting the fiberglass and will eventually pull out or cut through the fiberglass. Also one reason why airplanes are held together with rivets rather than sheet metal screws.
DanT posted 04-15-2002 01:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for DanT  Send Email to DanT     
If the rub rail is similar to the one I installed on my 16 footer I would caution against using a larger rivet. I used the rivets supplied with the kit and the diameter of the head is the same as the center rib in the receiving track. A few rivet heads telegraphed through the black rubber insert, probably due to the hole not being drilled exactly on center of the rib. I would expect that with a larger rivet head they will show through the black rubber insert. Perhaps slightly countersinking the rivets may help.
Chip posted 04-16-2002 05:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chip  Send Email to Chip     
Whew!! Anybody thinking about replacing their rubrail, make sure you need a new one! I'm about 3/4 through on my Katema and let me tell you...it ain't no piece of cake! A couple hints-you need a heat gun. The "semi" rigid track is tough to work with. Make sure it's hot out and leave the track in the sun for awhile.. Clamp/drill/rivet/clamp/drill/rivet.......and good luck!

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