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Author Topic:   Cooler hold-downs

roger8918 posted 04-16-2002 10:39 PM ET (US)
Spring is in the air and now I’m trying to get a few things done on my 86 Montauk before I get it in the water for the year. I recently purchased a 94 qt Igloo cooler to replace a homemade wooden box that the previous owner had made. The problem is that it doesn’t quite sit right on the wooden chocks that I have. Has anyone ever had this problem and if so what did you do to correct it? I have attached a few photos of my existing conditions. Also, the last photos show the plastic hold-downs that were attached to the homemade box. Are these from the original cooler and if so how should I attach them to the new one? [URL] http://smegl.com/photo/thumb.asp?cfoto=photo/2002_04_16_Whaler[/URL]
roger8918 posted 04-16-2002 10:42 PM ET (US)
let me try that url again. http://smegl.com/photo/thumb.asp?cfoto=photo/2002_04_16_Whaler
aubv posted 04-16-2002 11:10 PM ET (US)
I have starboard cooler chocks on a 17' OR w/ a 54 Qt cooler and have ordered them for a 94 qt cooler. They are $44.00 each and come with the nylon strap and plastic buckle that is designed to fit over the J hooks you show in the pictures. Not sure how the J hooks attach without looking. Probably with ss screws.
lhg posted 04-17-2002 12:06 AM ET (US)
The cooler bungee clips screw into the handle assembly exactly are you are showing.
You cooler floor cleats look like the older mahogany style, and possibly not original equipment for a Montauk. If you're going to re-use these, they should be sanded to bare, reddish wood, and varnished. I understand that in a 17, to fit the wider 94 qt cooler, which is certainly a good idea and a better seat, it has to be raised an inch or so because of the floor slope. So I would add an additional thickness of mahogany under the cleats, or make new ones of thicker material, or of starboard layers, to accomplish this.
The cleats you have do not look like original Montauk cleats, but instead of the style used on Outrages, where the cooler fits between them, not on top of them. The ones that hold the cooler on my 18 Outrage look like yours. You might want to get the correct ones from Whaler, in starboard, which I also think will have to be raised up for the 94 qt cooler.
roger8918 posted 04-17-2002 12:27 PM ET (US)
I would be surprised is these where not original. Everything else seems to be. The front edges of the cooler clear the floor so height doesn’t seem to be the problem. I believe they are 5/4 Mahogany. I recognize they are in pretty bad shape and had planed on making some new ones. If anyone has a photo of his or her setup it would help me understand what I may be lacking. I’m trying my best to keep as close to original equipment as possible. Thanks for the feedback.
Tom W Clark posted 04-17-2002 12:38 PM ET (US)
roger8918,
lhg has correctly identified your chocks as the Outrage/Revenge style chocks and not the Montauk style which you need.
Actually, to be precise, they are modified Outrage/Revenge chocks that have had the aft ends cut off (perhaps by the dealer). Originally the Outrage/Revenge chocks were symmetrical for and aft. lhg is also correct that the extra height provided by the Montauk style chocks will allow the corners of the cooler to fit into your hull where the hull curves upwards towards the bow.
Because your chocks have been bastardized, I would recommend just getting (or making) new Montauk style chocks and screwing them to the floor only with the cooler in place so you can get the correct distance from the console for your new cooler.
As to the clips, they were pop riveted on in the original but they can be screwed on with a stainless steel pan head sheet metal screw as well. The little notch in the top fits around the little plastic "eye" on the Igloo cooler.
When you make your new chocks be sure to provide just the right amount of bungee to hold the cooler down but not make it too hard to stretch it over the hook.
Arch Autenreith posted 04-17-2002 12:52 PM ET (US)
Roger
It sure seems something is wrong with the position that the chocks are screwed onto the deck. Also the chocks are missing the front pieces. I happen to have a .jpg here of them by themselves. I'll try to take a pic of it.
Arch
Tom W Clark posted 04-17-2002 12:56 PM ET (US)
Arch,
There are no front pieces on the Outrage/Revenge style chocks which is why you don't see them in roger's photos. There are front pieces (blocks) on the Montauk style which you have.
Arch Autenreith posted 04-17-2002 02:18 PM ET (US)
Thanks, Tom.
That explains it. So are the ones Roger have the correct ones?
Roger. I emailed the pics of how mine look installed and with the 94qt. cooler on also.
Tom W Clark posted 04-17-2002 08:07 PM ET (US)
Arch,
Roger has a 1986 Montauk, thus he does not have the correct chocks. He needs chocks like you have on your boat.
simonmeridew posted 04-17-2002 08:21 PM ET (US)
If I took a photo of my montauk's chocks before I re built them it would look just like the first photo. The aft section of the bad side(port side) rotted, just like yours did. I made a new one out of 5/4 mahogany using the other side as a mirror image pattern. In the pic, the far side one looks like it's all there. Take both sides off and look underneath. The wood will be all punky under the port one, especially on the stern end. The other one looks OK. There are a couple of as I recall 1 inch holes(but they could be 7/8 inch). I drilled these in the new mahogany with the right size forsner bit, then came in at right angles with another hole for the bungee cord. I tied the bungee with a single knot and it fits in the forsner bit hole at each end.
I can't tell from your pics but on mine there is another piece of mahagony at the bow end of each chock, screwed on top with stainless screws, which keeps the cooler from shifting forward. The console keeps it from shifting aft.
There is no law that says you can't move each chock forward (towards the bow) a little to accomadate a slightly deeper cooler. Just seal the existing holes in the fiberglas and drill new ones.
BTW the chocks you describe sound like my '84 Montauk's, and I don't think anyone put them on aftermarket, but I could be wrong. I think they're factory. There were no other holes in the deck anywhere else in the vicinity of the existing chocks and the holes fit exactly. I don't have a digital camera so no pics, but I could email you a crude diagram of my chocks if you need it.
simonmeridew
Arch Autenreith posted 04-17-2002 10:55 PM ET (US)
And, uh, Roger. Are you trying to tell us something in the last 2 .jpg's? ;-)
roger8918 posted 04-18-2002 12:13 AM ET (US)
Arch, The photos were just what the doctor ordered. Are the chocks in your photos made of 5/4? They seem a little thinner then that in your photos. Simonmeridew, You are correct my chocks are in awfully poor condition one broken and the other is extremely weak. If anyone else would like to see Arch’s photos I posted them as well. Tom, Arch, simonmeridew thanks for all the help
[url] http://smegl.com/photo/thumb.asp?cfoto=photo/2002_04_16_Whaler[/url]
roger8918 posted 04-18-2002 12:18 AM ET (US)
Arch’s photos are:
Whaler003.jpg
Whaler004.jpg
Whaler005.jpg
Whaler006.jpg
coolerchocks1.jpg
coolerchocks.jpg
http://smegl.com/photo/thumb.asp?cfoto=photo/2002_04_16_Whaler
Arch Autenreith posted 04-18-2002 08:15 AM ET (US)
Roger, I think they are 5/4 but not sure now. I did sand them a couple times on the belt sander before. Once to get off the old varnish and then again to get off the oil to varnish once again.
Also, if you need to move the chocks forward to allow for a larger cooler, plug and drill new holes in the chocks, (as I did) not in the deck.
Tom W Clark posted 04-18-2002 11:05 AM ET (US)
The Montauk cooler cleats are have bases that are 1" thickness, net (nominal 5/4) the blocks at the forward end are 1 1/4", net (nominal 6/4)
Taylor posted 04-18-2002 01:25 PM ET (US)
Arch, did you find that oiling the mahogany chocks did not work, so you went back to varnish? Also, on a Montauk, anyone know why are the chocks the *only* piece of non-teak wook?
Tom W Clark posted 04-18-2002 01:35 PM ET (US)
Taylor,
I've wondered that myself. I think the chock dept. at Whaler was set up for "varnish" (actually a polyurethane finish). Actually I suspect it is because they made them from mahogany and not teak. Perhaps the cost of thick teak was more than they wanted to spend given the relatively small quantity they would have needed.
I have seen teak Montauk style chocks but they were made by others. On my Outrage 18 the same was true about everything being teak except the under gunwale rod holders, which were varnished mahogany plywood.
Arch Autenreith posted 04-18-2002 03:03 PM ET (US)
Taylor.
If I had some plastic sitting around I would have made new ones but I didn't. Also, the bow locker is mahogany also.
I varnished as I did the oiling route and wasn't satisfied with the results. I don't know...maybe I did something wrong or used the wrong oil...it needed oiling too frequently and it greyed anyhow. So I sanded and varnished everything again and the blocks got it also. (They're covered by the cooler 100% of the time but who cares!)
roger8918 posted 04-18-2002 03:55 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all the help Guys. Does anyone happen to have a scale drawing of the correct Montauk chocks or maybe a pattern you have used in the past? I would prefer to make them myself and have a good idea from Arch’s photos of what I need but want to make sure I get the angles correct.
Arch Autenreith posted 04-18-2002 05:08 PM ET (US)
This isn't the first time someone has asked so I'll take them off, trace them and have them available for anyone that needs them. Maybe it'll fit on a 8.5 x 14 then I can save the original as that size to print out and use. Let's see how it goes. At the very least I'll snail mail a copy.
lhg posted 04-18-2002 05:25 PM ET (US)
I have these chocks installed under my RPS to hold an Igloo seat in place. I bought them from BW about ten years ago, and they are of 3/4" black starboard. They look great and have held up beautifully. Stongly recommend you make yours from starboard. This is a perfect use of this material. The black color goes nicely with the desert tan. These things are a complex shape, and somewhat resemble a dog's "milkbone" cookie.
simonmeridew posted 04-18-2002 06:59 PM ET (US)
I never did have to buy the mahogany to built the chocks. I was visiting an auto body guy one day who was uncrating a hood, like from a toyota or mazda or whatever. The crating was mahogany lumber rough sawn, which he gave me so he didn't have to throw it out. I said I'll be using that someday. The pieces I used for the chock were probably 6/4 which I planed down to dimension, and glued with West system. Like I said I used the starboard one as a reverse pattern and the rest is history.
Apparently the mahogany in the Far East is like white oak here, crating material.
simonmeridew
Arch Autenreith posted 04-19-2002 09:21 AM ET (US)
I have traced the cooler blocks that came off my '84 Montauk along with specs, etc., the best I could. If anyone need it I can email them. In .tif or .jpg format. Or I can mail them.
These are the mahogany ones but I completely agree with Tom and the should be made from starboard.
hauptjm posted 04-19-2002 10:54 AM ET (US)
As to the plastic j-clips that were riveted onto the cooler, I made a simple modification. When I bought my new cooler, I didn't want to put the worn out looking clips back on. Solution: bought a stainless clip shackle from west (I can't remember their name, but they are used by rock climbers). These open up and the small end rides on the shock cord and the larger end simply clips on the molded in half-circle just under the handle. Looks very good.
Tom W Clark posted 04-19-2002 12:29 PM ET (US)
Arch,
Please don't attribute a recommendation of plastic (starboard) to me! It was lhg that suggested the starboard for the cleats. It would be better if you had said: “...they could be made from starboard.” rather than ”...they should be made from starboard.”
While I will admit a set of cooler cleats may well be the best use of starboard on a Whaler (and I will further admit its superior durability and lower maintenance) I would make them from teak or Honduran mahogany for two reasons:
1) They will look better.
2) It will be both easier and more pleasant to work with wood rather than plastic.
Many people have asked and discussed these cleats here on the FORUM. It seems we should have a set of drawings for them that could be distributed. To this end, could you email me the photos and dimensions of your cleats, Arch? I will prepare a CAD drawing and include all the pertinent details to aid others in the future.
hauptjm, your solution sounds good but the J-clips cost only a few dollars so starting fresh is no big deal either.
lhg posted 04-19-2002 02:58 PM ET (US)
Tom - I knew Arch's post would get you! And I thought I was a purist when it came to Whalers!
I have also replaced the Outrage mahagony plywood under-gunwale rod racks with the Whaler starboard versions also. Those were one of the poorest quality components that came on my Whalers, inadequately varnished and quickly delaminating. Here also, I think the black starboard ones are very functional, much stronger and look nice years later.
After you (hopefully) see my boat this summer, maybe you'll agree!
PS: I have saved the old mahogany rod racks from both boats, thinking I might want to go back to them. Never. If you want them as a template for replacement drawings, I have them.
roger8918 posted 04-20-2002 04:02 PM ET (US)
Arch, Could you please email me a set of your drawings? Although, I do think starboard would serve a good purpose here I believe I’ll make them out of mahogany. Thank to all for the feedback.
Allard posted 05-02-2002 03:53 PM ET (US)
I have the same problem. I want to mount a new 94 quart cooler in my 1984 Montauk. Does anyone have dimensions for the correct cleats to do this? I understand that they need to be higher for the Igloo 94. Any help would be great. Thanks.
HAB posted 05-03-2002 03:06 PM ET (US)
I am going to make my runners,chocks, out of starboard for my Igloo 94 on my 84 Montauk and would like some dimentions if anyone has them. A little help please! Thankyou in advance.
aubv posted 05-03-2002 03:37 PM ET (US)
The chocks I ordered, for a 94 qt igloo cooler, are in and will be picking them up tomorrow. I can post pictures and dimensions tomorrow night. But only if you say please!
HAB posted 05-03-2002 04:10 PM ET (US)
Pleeeeeeease! aubv. I picked up the new 94 cooler today and am waiting on dimentions to fabricate the chocks I need. Yes, I could do it myself, but plagiarism is the most sincre form of flattery. I am still trying to decide between starboard or wood, however with a deck that is wet so much of the time, I am leaning towards the plastic. What about using 5200 to "glue" the starboad to the deck and not drill any holes in the deck at all. Any thoughts on the subject? Thankyou!
aubv posted 05-04-2002 10:36 PM ET (US)
This isn't easy to describe but here is a shot.
Cooler chocks for 94 qt igloo cooler are 18-3/16" long and 4" wide. The narrow portion between the end cleats is 2" wide. They are made of 3/4" starboard. The angle on the ends is 17.5 degrees.
Cleats: Small cleat is 11/16" in width.
Large cleat is 1-15/16" in width.
Cleats are also 3/4 starboard,
making the total height 1-1/2" at
both ends.
Cleats are held on with two screws
each.
Distance between cleats is 15-9/16"
Holes: Bungees knot/crimp holes are 1"
Dia. i.d. and counter sunk just over
9/16" deep. They are located on the
bottom of the chock.
Holes are 9" cc. Hole on large cleat
end is 4-3/4" to center from end.
Hole on small cleat end is 4-1/2" to
center from end. Holes are centered
on the 2" wide portion.
Bungee pass through holes are 7/16"
i.d. and are offset towards the
bottom of the chock leaving more
material towards the top.
Each cleat has 3 counter sunk holes
for mounting screws.
The radii appear to be 1" and 2".
Bungee length is 21 inches from edge of cleat to edge of cleat.
http://www.momentoffame.com/category.html?id=27
My opinion go buy them it's probably easier than trying to replicate. Fwiw
Any questions welcome. I will try to get better pictures in the sun tomorrow.
HAB posted 05-05-2002 10:21 PM ET (US)
Hey aubv, Thank you very much for all your help. After looking at the link you posted, I agree that buying them would be the way to go. Now who sells them and how much are they. That was a great picture. Thanks again HAB
rubadub555 posted 05-06-2002 08:38 AM ET (US)
Can anyone direct me to a seller of wooden chocks for a 94 gal. Igloo cooler/seat in front of the console on a 1980 Montauk? I've decided against fabricating them myself...
rubadub555 posted 05-06-2002 08:53 AM ET (US)
Nothing like answering my own question;
first, 94 QUARTS, not gal.
second,Boston Whaler part numbers 1068154(port)
and 1084300(starboard)
are these chocks in white Starboard.
Allard posted 06-04-2002 10:37 PM ET (US)
To all, many thanks for your advice. The cleats and hooks to install the 94 qt. cooler in my 1984 Montauk arrived yesterday. The part numbers that Rubadub gave were correct and BW factory customer service recommended Sue Lodel at Twin Cities Marine (phone (920)794-8702 as a source.
The two cleats cost $43.00 each plus postage. The two cooler hooks also came from this dealer for $7.00 each. Note that the first pair of hooks were not flat and were replaced by the dealer.
As a side note, the cleats are supposed to come either with black shock cord (as mine did) or with a strap and buckle as shown in some of the new whaler photographs. I hope they work as good as they look, I'll let you all know.
HAB posted 06-05-2002 10:18 PM ET (US)
Hey Allard, I'm happy for ya!
Allard posted 09-09-2002 12:04 AM ET (US)
Here's the update on my 94 qt. Igloo cooler instalation. After installing the factory cleat assemblys (see earlier posting) and buying the "factory' plastic hooks, I discovered that the factory piece of shock cord on the cleat was too short to fit up to the hook if the hook was installed using the screws that hold the cooler handles in place. Yes, I know that I could have mounted the hooks lower with new fastners (rivets or screws) but I didn't want to add holes to the side of the cooler.
The answer was to not use the Factory plastic hooks at all. I used a piece of shock cord with a hook at each end (bought at a local discount store for less then a dollar each) to make up the distance between the top of the factory cord loop and the small fitting with a hole on the side of the cooler that accepts a tie down. Both hook ends go through this hole and below, it's shock cord to shock cord so minimum chafe.
As a side benefit I can now return the factory hooks (cost $7.00 each).
rsgwynn1 posted 09-09-2002 12:26 AM ET (US)
I had two nice sets of the oem mahogany chocks included with my 83 Revenge. At first I didn't know why the original owner had taken them off, but now I think I do--trim. I've found that it's a good thing on my boat not to have a 128 qt. ice chest centered. Since I have a kicker mounted starboard, I get better trim distribution when I slide the ice chest all the way to port and secure it with a bungee. I haven't had any trouble with it moving around, even in rough seas, when it's loaded, and I can easily slide it out of the way to get to the swim ladder--mounted on port side of transom.

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Author	Topic: Cooler hold-downs
roger8918	posted 04-16-2002 10:39 PM ET (US) Spring is in the air and now I’m trying to get a few things done on my 86 Montauk before I get it in the water for the year. I recently purchased a 94 qt Igloo cooler to replace a homemade wooden box that the previous owner had made. The problem is that it doesn’t quite sit right on the wooden chocks that I have. Has anyone ever had this problem and if so what did you do to correct it? I have attached a few photos of my existing conditions. Also, the last photos show the plastic hold-downs that were attached to the homemade box. Are these from the original cooler and if so how should I attach them to the new one? [URL] http://smegl.com/photo/thumb.asp?cfoto=photo/2002_04_16_Whaler[/URL]
roger8918	posted 04-16-2002 10:42 PM ET (US) let me try that url again. http://smegl.com/photo/thumb.asp?cfoto=photo/2002_04_16_Whaler
aubv	posted 04-16-2002 11:10 PM ET (US) I have starboard cooler chocks on a 17' OR w/ a 54 Qt cooler and have ordered them for a 94 qt cooler. They are $44.00 each and come with the nylon strap and plastic buckle that is designed to fit over the J hooks you show in the pictures. Not sure how the J hooks attach without looking. Probably with ss screws.
lhg	posted 04-17-2002 12:06 AM ET (US) The cooler bungee clips screw into the handle assembly exactly are you are showing. You cooler floor cleats look like the older mahogany style, and possibly not original equipment for a Montauk. If you're going to re-use these, they should be sanded to bare, reddish wood, and varnished. I understand that in a 17, to fit the wider 94 qt cooler, which is certainly a good idea and a better seat, it has to be raised an inch or so because of the floor slope. So I would add an additional thickness of mahogany under the cleats, or make new ones of thicker material, or of starboard layers, to accomplish this. The cleats you have do not look like original Montauk cleats, but instead of the style used on Outrages, where the cooler fits between them, not on top of them. The ones that hold the cooler on my 18 Outrage look like yours. You might want to get the correct ones from Whaler, in starboard, which I also think will have to be raised up for the 94 qt cooler.
roger8918	posted 04-17-2002 12:27 PM ET (US) I would be surprised is these where not original. Everything else seems to be. The front edges of the cooler clear the floor so height doesn’t seem to be the problem. I believe they are 5/4 Mahogany. I recognize they are in pretty bad shape and had planed on making some new ones. If anyone has a photo of his or her setup it would help me understand what I may be lacking. I’m trying my best to keep as close to original equipment as possible. Thanks for the feedback.
Tom W Clark	posted 04-17-2002 12:38 PM ET (US) roger8918, lhg has correctly identified your chocks as the Outrage/Revenge style chocks and not the Montauk style which you need. Actually, to be precise, they are modified Outrage/Revenge chocks that have had the aft ends cut off (perhaps by the dealer). Originally the Outrage/Revenge chocks were symmetrical for and aft. lhg is also correct that the extra height provided by the Montauk style chocks will allow the corners of the cooler to fit into your hull where the hull curves upwards towards the bow. Because your chocks have been bastardized, I would recommend just getting (or making) new Montauk style chocks and screwing them to the floor only with the cooler in place so you can get the correct distance from the console for your new cooler. As to the clips, they were pop riveted on in the original but they can be screwed on with a stainless steel pan head sheet metal screw as well. The little notch in the top fits around the little plastic "eye" on the Igloo cooler. When you make your new chocks be sure to provide just the right amount of bungee to hold the cooler down but not make it too hard to stretch it over the hook.
Arch Autenreith	posted 04-17-2002 12:52 PM ET (US) Roger It sure seems something is wrong with the position that the chocks are screwed onto the deck. Also the chocks are missing the front pieces. I happen to have a .jpg here of them by themselves. I'll try to take a pic of it. Arch
Tom W Clark	posted 04-17-2002 12:56 PM ET (US) Arch, There are no front pieces on the Outrage/Revenge style chocks which is why you don't see them in roger's photos. There are front pieces (blocks) on the Montauk style which you have.
Arch Autenreith	posted 04-17-2002 02:18 PM ET (US) Thanks, Tom. That explains it. So are the ones Roger have the correct ones? Roger. I emailed the pics of how mine look installed and with the 94qt. cooler on also.
Tom W Clark	posted 04-17-2002 08:07 PM ET (US) Arch, Roger has a 1986 Montauk, thus he does not have the correct chocks. He needs chocks like you have on your boat.
simonmeridew	posted 04-17-2002 08:21 PM ET (US) If I took a photo of my montauk's chocks before I re built them it would look just like the first photo. The aft section of the bad side(port side) rotted, just like yours did. I made a new one out of 5/4 mahogany using the other side as a mirror image pattern. In the pic, the far side one looks like it's all there. Take both sides off and look underneath. The wood will be all punky under the port one, especially on the stern end. The other one looks OK. There are a couple of as I recall 1 inch holes(but they could be 7/8 inch). I drilled these in the new mahogany with the right size forsner bit, then came in at right angles with another hole for the bungee cord. I tied the bungee with a single knot and it fits in the forsner bit hole at each end. I can't tell from your pics but on mine there is another piece of mahagony at the bow end of each chock, screwed on top with stainless screws, which keeps the cooler from shifting forward. The console keeps it from shifting aft. There is no law that says you can't move each chock forward (towards the bow) a little to accomadate a slightly deeper cooler. Just seal the existing holes in the fiberglas and drill new ones. BTW the chocks you describe sound like my '84 Montauk's, and I don't think anyone put them on aftermarket, but I could be wrong. I think they're factory. There were no other holes in the deck anywhere else in the vicinity of the existing chocks and the holes fit exactly. I don't have a digital camera so no pics, but I could email you a crude diagram of my chocks if you need it. simonmeridew
Arch Autenreith	posted 04-17-2002 10:55 PM ET (US) And, uh, Roger. Are you trying to tell us something in the last 2 .jpg's? ;-)
roger8918	posted 04-18-2002 12:13 AM ET (US) Arch, The photos were just what the doctor ordered. Are the chocks in your photos made of 5/4? They seem a little thinner then that in your photos. Simonmeridew, You are correct my chocks are in awfully poor condition one broken and the other is extremely weak. If anyone else would like to see Arch’s photos I posted them as well. Tom, Arch, simonmeridew thanks for all the help [url] http://smegl.com/photo/thumb.asp?cfoto=photo/2002_04_16_Whaler[/url]
roger8918	posted 04-18-2002 12:18 AM ET (US) Arch’s photos are: Whaler003.jpg Whaler004.jpg Whaler005.jpg Whaler006.jpg coolerchocks1.jpg coolerchocks.jpg http://smegl.com/photo/thumb.asp?cfoto=photo/2002_04_16_Whaler
Arch Autenreith	posted 04-18-2002 08:15 AM ET (US) Roger, I think they are 5/4 but not sure now. I did sand them a couple times on the belt sander before. Once to get off the old varnish and then again to get off the oil to varnish once again. Also, if you need to move the chocks forward to allow for a larger cooler, plug and drill new holes in the chocks, (as I did) not in the deck.
Tom W Clark	posted 04-18-2002 11:05 AM ET (US) The Montauk cooler cleats are have bases that are 1" thickness, net (nominal 5/4) the blocks at the forward end are 1 1/4", net (nominal 6/4)
Taylor	posted 04-18-2002 01:25 PM ET (US) Arch, did you find that oiling the mahogany chocks did not work, so you went back to varnish? Also, on a Montauk, anyone know why are the chocks the only piece of non-teak wook?
Tom W Clark	posted 04-18-2002 01:35 PM ET (US) Taylor, I've wondered that myself. I think the chock dept. at Whaler was set up for "varnish" (actually a polyurethane finish). Actually I suspect it is because they made them from mahogany and not teak. Perhaps the cost of thick teak was more than they wanted to spend given the relatively small quantity they would have needed. I have seen teak Montauk style chocks but they were made by others. On my Outrage 18 the same was true about everything being teak except the under gunwale rod holders, which were varnished mahogany plywood.
Arch Autenreith	posted 04-18-2002 03:03 PM ET (US) Taylor. If I had some plastic sitting around I would have made new ones but I didn't. Also, the bow locker is mahogany also. I varnished as I did the oiling route and wasn't satisfied with the results. I don't know...maybe I did something wrong or used the wrong oil...it needed oiling too frequently and it greyed anyhow. So I sanded and varnished everything again and the blocks got it also. (They're covered by the cooler 100% of the time but who cares!)
roger8918	posted 04-18-2002 03:55 PM ET (US) Thanks for all the help Guys. Does anyone happen to have a scale drawing of the correct Montauk chocks or maybe a pattern you have used in the past? I would prefer to make them myself and have a good idea from Arch’s photos of what I need but want to make sure I get the angles correct.
Arch Autenreith	posted 04-18-2002 05:08 PM ET (US) This isn't the first time someone has asked so I'll take them off, trace them and have them available for anyone that needs them. Maybe it'll fit on a 8.5 x 14 then I can save the original as that size to print out and use. Let's see how it goes. At the very least I'll snail mail a copy.
lhg	posted 04-18-2002 05:25 PM ET (US) I have these chocks installed under my RPS to hold an Igloo seat in place. I bought them from BW about ten years ago, and they are of 3/4" black starboard. They look great and have held up beautifully. Stongly recommend you make yours from starboard. This is a perfect use of this material. The black color goes nicely with the desert tan. These things are a complex shape, and somewhat resemble a dog's "milkbone" cookie.
simonmeridew	posted 04-18-2002 06:59 PM ET (US) I never did have to buy the mahogany to built the chocks. I was visiting an auto body guy one day who was uncrating a hood, like from a toyota or mazda or whatever. The crating was mahogany lumber rough sawn, which he gave me so he didn't have to throw it out. I said I'll be using that someday. The pieces I used for the chock were probably 6/4 which I planed down to dimension, and glued with West system. Like I said I used the starboard one as a reverse pattern and the rest is history. Apparently the mahogany in the Far East is like white oak here, crating material. simonmeridew
Arch Autenreith	posted 04-19-2002 09:21 AM ET (US) I have traced the cooler blocks that came off my '84 Montauk along with specs, etc., the best I could. If anyone need it I can email them. In .tif or .jpg format. Or I can mail them. These are the mahogany ones but I completely agree with Tom and the should be made from starboard.
hauptjm	posted 04-19-2002 10:54 AM ET (US) As to the plastic j-clips that were riveted onto the cooler, I made a simple modification. When I bought my new cooler, I didn't want to put the worn out looking clips back on. Solution: bought a stainless clip shackle from west (I can't remember their name, but they are used by rock climbers). These open up and the small end rides on the shock cord and the larger end simply clips on the molded in half-circle just under the handle. Looks very good.
Tom W Clark	posted 04-19-2002 12:29 PM ET (US) Arch, Please don't attribute a recommendation of plastic (starboard) to me! It was lhg that suggested the starboard for the cleats. It would be better if you had said: “...they could be made from starboard.” rather than ”...they should be made from starboard.” While I will admit a set of cooler cleats may well be the best use of starboard on a Whaler (and I will further admit its superior durability and lower maintenance) I would make them from teak or Honduran mahogany for two reasons: 1) They will look better. 2) It will be both easier and more pleasant to work with wood rather than plastic. Many people have asked and discussed these cleats here on the FORUM. It seems we should have a set of drawings for them that could be distributed. To this end, could you email me the photos and dimensions of your cleats, Arch? I will prepare a CAD drawing and include all the pertinent details to aid others in the future. hauptjm, your solution sounds good but the J-clips cost only a few dollars so starting fresh is no big deal either.
lhg	posted 04-19-2002 02:58 PM ET (US) Tom - I knew Arch's post would get you! And I thought I was a purist when it came to Whalers! I have also replaced the Outrage mahagony plywood under-gunwale rod racks with the Whaler starboard versions also. Those were one of the poorest quality components that came on my Whalers, inadequately varnished and quickly delaminating. Here also, I think the black starboard ones are very functional, much stronger and look nice years later. After you (hopefully) see my boat this summer, maybe you'll agree! PS: I have saved the old mahogany rod racks from both boats, thinking I might want to go back to them. Never. If you want them as a template for replacement drawings, I have them.
roger8918	posted 04-20-2002 04:02 PM ET (US) Arch, Could you please email me a set of your drawings? Although, I do think starboard would serve a good purpose here I believe I’ll make them out of mahogany. Thank to all for the feedback.
Allard	posted 05-02-2002 03:53 PM ET (US) I have the same problem. I want to mount a new 94 quart cooler in my 1984 Montauk. Does anyone have dimensions for the correct cleats to do this? I understand that they need to be higher for the Igloo 94. Any help would be great. Thanks.
HAB	posted 05-03-2002 03:06 PM ET (US) I am going to make my runners,chocks, out of starboard for my Igloo 94 on my 84 Montauk and would like some dimentions if anyone has them. A little help please! Thankyou in advance.
aubv	posted 05-03-2002 03:37 PM ET (US) The chocks I ordered, for a 94 qt igloo cooler, are in and will be picking them up tomorrow. I can post pictures and dimensions tomorrow night. But only if you say please!
HAB	posted 05-03-2002 04:10 PM ET (US) Pleeeeeeease! aubv. I picked up the new 94 cooler today and am waiting on dimentions to fabricate the chocks I need. Yes, I could do it myself, but plagiarism is the most sincre form of flattery. I am still trying to decide between starboard or wood, however with a deck that is wet so much of the time, I am leaning towards the plastic. What about using 5200 to "glue" the starboad to the deck and not drill any holes in the deck at all. Any thoughts on the subject? Thankyou!
aubv	posted 05-04-2002 10:36 PM ET (US) This isn't easy to describe but here is a shot. Cooler chocks for 94 qt igloo cooler are 18-3/16" long and 4" wide. The narrow portion between the end cleats is 2" wide. They are made of 3/4" starboard. The angle on the ends is 17.5 degrees. Cleats: Small cleat is 11/16" in width. Large cleat is 1-15/16" in width. Cleats are also 3/4 starboard, making the total height 1-1/2" at both ends. Cleats are held on with two screws each. Distance between cleats is 15-9/16" Holes: Bungees knot/crimp holes are 1" Dia. i.d. and counter sunk just over 9/16" deep. They are located on the bottom of the chock. Holes are 9" cc. Hole on large cleat end is 4-3/4" to center from end. Hole on small cleat end is 4-1/2" to center from end. Holes are centered on the 2" wide portion. Bungee pass through holes are 7/16" i.d. and are offset towards the bottom of the chock leaving more material towards the top. Each cleat has 3 counter sunk holes for mounting screws. The radii appear to be 1" and 2". Bungee length is 21 inches from edge of cleat to edge of cleat. http://www.momentoffame.com/category.html?id=27 My opinion go buy them it's probably easier than trying to replicate. Fwiw Any questions welcome. I will try to get better pictures in the sun tomorrow.
HAB	posted 05-05-2002 10:21 PM ET (US) Hey aubv, Thank you very much for all your help. After looking at the link you posted, I agree that buying them would be the way to go. Now who sells them and how much are they. That was a great picture. Thanks again HAB
rubadub555	posted 05-06-2002 08:38 AM ET (US) Can anyone direct me to a seller of wooden chocks for a 94 gal. Igloo cooler/seat in front of the console on a 1980 Montauk? I've decided against fabricating them myself...
rubadub555	posted 05-06-2002 08:53 AM ET (US) Nothing like answering my own question; first, 94 QUARTS, not gal. second,Boston Whaler part numbers 1068154(port) and 1084300(starboard) are these chocks in white Starboard.
Allard	posted 06-04-2002 10:37 PM ET (US) To all, many thanks for your advice. The cleats and hooks to install the 94 qt. cooler in my 1984 Montauk arrived yesterday. The part numbers that Rubadub gave were correct and BW factory customer service recommended Sue Lodel at Twin Cities Marine (phone (920)794-8702 as a source. The two cleats cost $43.00 each plus postage. The two cooler hooks also came from this dealer for $7.00 each. Note that the first pair of hooks were not flat and were replaced by the dealer. As a side note, the cleats are supposed to come either with black shock cord (as mine did) or with a strap and buckle as shown in some of the new whaler photographs. I hope they work as good as they look, I'll let you all know.
HAB	posted 06-05-2002 10:18 PM ET (US) Hey Allard, I'm happy for ya!
Allard	posted 09-09-2002 12:04 AM ET (US) Here's the update on my 94 qt. Igloo cooler instalation. After installing the factory cleat assemblys (see earlier posting) and buying the "factory' plastic hooks, I discovered that the factory piece of shock cord on the cleat was too short to fit up to the hook if the hook was installed using the screws that hold the cooler handles in place. Yes, I know that I could have mounted the hooks lower with new fastners (rivets or screws) but I didn't want to add holes to the side of the cooler. The answer was to not use the Factory plastic hooks at all. I used a piece of shock cord with a hook at each end (bought at a local discount store for less then a dollar each) to make up the distance between the top of the factory cord loop and the small fitting with a hole on the side of the cooler that accepts a tie down. Both hook ends go through this hole and below, it's shock cord to shock cord so minimum chafe. As a side benefit I can now return the factory hooks (cost $7.00 each).
rsgwynn1	posted 09-09-2002 12:26 AM ET (US) I had two nice sets of the oem mahogany chocks included with my 83 Revenge. At first I didn't know why the original owner had taken them off, but now I think I do--trim. I've found that it's a good thing on my boat not to have a 128 qt. ice chest centered. Since I have a kicker mounted starboard, I get better trim distribution when I slide the ice chest all the way to port and secure it with a bungee. I haven't had any trouble with it moving around, even in rough seas, when it's loaded, and I can easily slide it out of the way to get to the swim ladder--mounted on port side of transom.