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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Bow eye/lifting ring 1990 17' Montauk
|Author||Topic: Bow eye/lifting ring 1990 17' Montauk|
posted 04-27-2002 04:54 PM ET (US)
Does anyone know the procedure for replacing the bow eye/threaded rod/lifting eye after some glass repair around the bow eye? I've removed the pieces and repaired the holes, but would like to know the correct procedure to re-drill or at least the distance from the chine to the bow eye hole. My hull was chewed up on the outside from the threaded rod moving around. I'm not sure if there should be a flattened spot for the bow eye to rest on or what. Any guidance would be welcomed....
posted 04-29-2002 03:37 PM ET (US)
I had mine off Saturday to rebed it and do some tightening. Do you still have to hole on the inside so you could just drill out? I suppose it might be dangerous, if the drill wandered you might miss the center. I wish I could give you the measurement, but that will have to wait till I see the boat.
There is flat spot under the bow eye, and the two little depressions to fit the two little nubs on the eye. I'm pretty sure the factory process was to gind it flat after it came out of the mold.
I bedded mine with 3M 4200 at both the bow and lifting eye ends.
One thing that was interesting to me was that the last 1/2" of the threaded rod was bent at about a 15 degree angle where the lifting eye is connected to account for the fact that the hole is not perpendicular to the deck there.
posted 04-29-2002 05:28 PM ET (US)
I just talked to the service person at BW over at Edgewater, FL and he said the production guys used to eyeball from the outside using the middle of the flat spot as their guide. I guess that means it came out of the mold that way. My flat spot is long gone; I taped on some waxed paper (with a lot of tape) and made a mini-mold along the keel. I know within 1" or so where it used to be though. The local good repair shop said they wax up a coat hanger type rod and put it thru the holes and then do the repairs. They pull out the rod and use the hole as a pilot hole for the 1/2" drill.
My threaded rod was also bent at each end. I thought it was damaged and it *was* damaged after I manhandled the bow eye off of it. I may drill a 1/2" hole on the outside and inside and try to push the threaded rod through the foam between the hulls - may have to drill some too, since I patched the "tunnel" with epoxy. I may build up the inside lifting eye base with some Marine-tex since it may be not square at that end (using a non-bent rod). The BW parts catalog picture looks like a straight piece - it's called out as a 7-5/8" long 1/2" stainless steel rod. Neither of the closest two BW dealers had it in stock. Of course, the only 17' in stock is the new one, which, after 20 years or so, is now different. Thanks for the reply......
posted 04-29-2002 07:38 PM ET (US)
I just re-did the bow eye and rod thing 2 weeks ago. The hole on mine had also hogged out probably from a previous owner mooring the boat for a long time and worked it back and forth in the waves. I took the rod out, stuffed West System epoxy/wood flower thickener in the hole, sprayed silicone on the threaded rod and pushed it in, put a stainless washer on the inside, and screwed on the inside eye; snubbed it up firm but not overtighten. Towed the Montauk 1900 miles last week to NC and back and no movement of the eye. Looks like it's gonna work
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