QuikFix - Rust stains below Bow Rail Mounts?

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Author Topic:   QuikFix - Rust stains below Bow Rail Mounts?

bkoelbel posted 04-28-2002 09:21 AM ET (US)
Does anyone have a quick fix to remove rust marks from the fiberglass below the bow rail mounts? Please advise, thanks.
FWIW, 3M aluminum restorer works great on cleats, hawespipes, port/starboard lights, and the bow cleat!
Whalerdan posted 04-29-2002 10:34 AM ET (US)
Spray some Boeshield rust remover and let it set for a couple of minutes. If anythings left, respray and brush with an old tooth brush. Works great.
jameso posted 04-29-2002 12:56 PM ET (US)
Many on this forum recommend 'BarKeepers Friend' works great on rust, let it sit then scrub lightly with a brush.
I used it on a couple of places where a screw had fallen behind panel and left an ugly stain.'
Jim Armstrong
Chap posted 04-29-2002 01:03 PM ET (US)
Hello,
This topic of stains originating from under the Outrage railing bases has come up several times in the past. Some have even related that the stains occurred more frequently with the stainless railings. Is this rust/crevice corrosion/dissimilar metals or stains from poor/non-existent sealing under the rail bases and the wood is rotting and producing the stains? I would like to prevent the stains and am considering removing my entire railing and remounting with sealant. Waist of time?
Thanks
Chap
knothead posted 04-29-2002 05:43 PM ET (US)
Chap,
I leave my Montauk moored in salt water all summer and have had the same problem. I virtually eliminated the problem by taking off the railing overdrilling the screw holes and filling with epoxy, compounding and waxing the hull, using Flitz, a buffing wheel, and then 2 coats of wax on all the stainless, including the screws.
Now there are no loose screws, and no unsightly ring around the stanchion base. Please note that this will not work on shirts. Regards--knothead
Alan Hiccock posted 04-29-2002 07:47 PM ET (US)
Youve got to take the rail off, replace all the screws and rebed the rail with 42 or 5200,
The rust stains indicate a problem and it needs attention.
You might have to drill out broken screws also because some might break when you attempt to remove them.
Alan
Chap posted 04-30-2002 09:46 AM ET (US)
Thanks,
It does seem that rebedding may be in order.
Added to the list.
Chap
lhg posted 05-01-2002 05:55 PM ET (US)
My 1989 25 Outrage habitually suffers from this problem, which I attribute to a lower grade of SS used by Whaler's fabricator at the time. My earlier Outrage, with CMI rails, does not have this problem at all.
The rust ring around the rail bases is almost impossible to remove without removing the whole one-piece rail, and wet sanding (1000 grade should do it) the fiberglass and re-buffing. Turn the rail upside down and sand the rail bases also. New SS screws may also be required. This is also the time to drill out stripped holes and fill with Marine-Tex white or other material. BW did not set these rail bases in any bedding compound.
Now, after have just done this a year ago, and after one winter in Florida, the rust is re-appearing. I'm disgusted, as it's now looking like this an annual chore. As I said, simply a low grade of SS was used, and salt water exposure seems to be the problem.
Whalerdan posted 05-02-2002 09:14 AM ET (US)
I'm with lgh on this. While it could be some major problem, I really think it's low grade screws.
lhg posted 05-02-2002 02:38 PM ET (US)
Dan - At least on my boat, it's not the screws, but definitely the rail and base plates. I even get surface rusting on the rail portion, necessitating Flitz polishing.
When the rail came off, the bases were all surface rusting underneath.
My CMI rails have none of these problems.
george nagy posted 05-02-2002 02:56 PM ET (US)
LHG, You have seen my salty 18' outrage and the cmi rail fittings are rusted at the base too. I do agree though I think the all weld rails are of a lower grade stainless. The real reason for this corrosion is the dissimilar alloys in the screws vs. the rails. Salt water tends to increase this problem and facilitating crevis corrosion.
After I finalize my engine switch I'm going to remove the rail clean, patch, and reinstall with the highest grade stainless screws I can find. To go one step further I will use nylon washers between the screwws and the fittings to eliminate contact. I am considering laying the fittings in a bed of 4200 to do the same maybe even to resist in the rail loosening again.
I can't stress enough though how important keeping the stainless polished and waxed is. When my old motor was dying I kind of got side tracked with it's diagnosis process and the boat remained in the water for a longer period of time than usual (6 mo.). After getting little results with the motor I was somewhat disappointed with the whole boat and left it somewhat neglected while I explored the possibilities of buying a new boat. When I pulled the boat out to repower I noticed that it was really in need of some tlc. My rails had salt buildup and some surface rust stains because I hadn't recoated wax in a while. I use colanites metal fleetwax to restore and protect my stainless and it lasts longer when protected.

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Author	Topic: QuikFix - Rust stains below Bow Rail Mounts?
bkoelbel	posted 04-28-2002 09:21 AM ET (US) Does anyone have a quick fix to remove rust marks from the fiberglass below the bow rail mounts? Please advise, thanks. FWIW, 3M aluminum restorer works great on cleats, hawespipes, port/starboard lights, and the bow cleat!
Whalerdan	posted 04-29-2002 10:34 AM ET (US) Spray some Boeshield rust remover and let it set for a couple of minutes. If anythings left, respray and brush with an old tooth brush. Works great.
jameso	posted 04-29-2002 12:56 PM ET (US) Many on this forum recommend 'BarKeepers Friend' works great on rust, let it sit then scrub lightly with a brush. I used it on a couple of places where a screw had fallen behind panel and left an ugly stain.' Jim Armstrong
Chap	posted 04-29-2002 01:03 PM ET (US) Hello, This topic of stains originating from under the Outrage railing bases has come up several times in the past. Some have even related that the stains occurred more frequently with the stainless railings. Is this rust/crevice corrosion/dissimilar metals or stains from poor/non-existent sealing under the rail bases and the wood is rotting and producing the stains? I would like to prevent the stains and am considering removing my entire railing and remounting with sealant. Waist of time? Thanks Chap
knothead	posted 04-29-2002 05:43 PM ET (US) Chap, I leave my Montauk moored in salt water all summer and have had the same problem. I virtually eliminated the problem by taking off the railing overdrilling the screw holes and filling with epoxy, compounding and waxing the hull, using Flitz, a buffing wheel, and then 2 coats of wax on all the stainless, including the screws. Now there are no loose screws, and no unsightly ring around the stanchion base. Please note that this will not work on shirts. Regards--knothead
Alan Hiccock	posted 04-29-2002 07:47 PM ET (US) Youve got to take the rail off, replace all the screws and rebed the rail with 42 or 5200, The rust stains indicate a problem and it needs attention. You might have to drill out broken screws also because some might break when you attempt to remove them. Alan
Chap	posted 04-30-2002 09:46 AM ET (US) Thanks, It does seem that rebedding may be in order. Added to the list. Chap
lhg	posted 05-01-2002 05:55 PM ET (US) My 1989 25 Outrage habitually suffers from this problem, which I attribute to a lower grade of SS used by Whaler's fabricator at the time. My earlier Outrage, with CMI rails, does not have this problem at all. The rust ring around the rail bases is almost impossible to remove without removing the whole one-piece rail, and wet sanding (1000 grade should do it) the fiberglass and re-buffing. Turn the rail upside down and sand the rail bases also. New SS screws may also be required. This is also the time to drill out stripped holes and fill with Marine-Tex white or other material. BW did not set these rail bases in any bedding compound. Now, after have just done this a year ago, and after one winter in Florida, the rust is re-appearing. I'm disgusted, as it's now looking like this an annual chore. As I said, simply a low grade of SS was used, and salt water exposure seems to be the problem.
Whalerdan	posted 05-02-2002 09:14 AM ET (US) I'm with lgh on this. While it could be some major problem, I really think it's low grade screws.
lhg	posted 05-02-2002 02:38 PM ET (US) Dan - At least on my boat, it's not the screws, but definitely the rail and base plates. I even get surface rusting on the rail portion, necessitating Flitz polishing. When the rail came off, the bases were all surface rusting underneath. My CMI rails have none of these problems.
george nagy	posted 05-02-2002 02:56 PM ET (US) LHG, You have seen my salty 18' outrage and the cmi rail fittings are rusted at the base too. I do agree though I think the all weld rails are of a lower grade stainless. The real reason for this corrosion is the dissimilar alloys in the screws vs. the rails. Salt water tends to increase this problem and facilitating crevis corrosion. After I finalize my engine switch I'm going to remove the rail clean, patch, and reinstall with the highest grade stainless screws I can find. To go one step further I will use nylon washers between the screwws and the fittings to eliminate contact. I am considering laying the fittings in a bed of 4200 to do the same maybe even to resist in the rail loosening again. I can't stress enough though how important keeping the stainless polished and waxed is. When my old motor was dying I kind of got side tracked with it's diagnosis process and the boat remained in the water for a longer period of time than usual (6 mo.). After getting little results with the motor I was somewhat disappointed with the whole boat and left it somewhat neglected while I explored the possibilities of buying a new boat. When I pulled the boat out to repower I noticed that it was really in need of some tlc. My rails had salt buildup and some surface rust stains because I hadn't recoated wax in a while. I use colanites metal fleetwax to restore and protect my stainless and it lasts longer when protected.