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Author Topic:   revenge anchor locker
csj posted 05-04-2002 09:40 PM ET (US)   Profile for csj   Send Email to csj  
My question is what knuckle head designed this. What i have discovered is that when you retrieve your anchor and line, the excess water either drains out the two holes as designed, or more often than not it drains under the bulkhead and into the cuddy area. Does anyone have a solution.
jimp posted 05-04-2002 10:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimp  Send Email to jimp     
csj -

Caulk, caulk, and more caulk! I let mine dry out, then you guessed it, I caulked it!


P.S. Don't know what knucklehead designed it!

jimp posted 05-04-2002 10:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimp  Send Email to jimp     
csj -

Forgot to mention. It no longer leaks.


csj posted 05-05-2002 07:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for csj  Send Email to csj     
Jimp do you still have the two holes open for water to escape
jimp posted 05-05-2002 11:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimp  Send Email to jimp     
csj -

Yup, drains are clear. Have to clear them every once in a while due to pine needles, shells, junk. Can do this either by removing +300' of line, chain and anchor, and cleaning debris out, or backflusing up the holes with the water hose (temporary solution). Backflushing is easy as the boat stays on her trailer and the holes are chest high.


rabbott posted 05-13-2002 06:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for rabbott  Send Email to rabbott     
I am familiar with your frustration since I own a 1989 Revenge 22 W/T which regularly leaked water into the cabin via the anchor locker. My solution to the problem was to construct a plywood box which I covered with fiberglass(two layers of mat/roving). I removed the bulkhead and then slide my "box" over the flange protruding down from the anchor locker entrance. I bolted the box in place with several 1/4 inch bolts and nyloc nuts and caulked the seam with sikkaflex. The sides of the box go straight down from the flange but I custom fit the bottom to roughly fit the interior profile of the hull where appropriate. The box ends just above where the nuts are located for the bow-eye. I installed two male nylon nipples on the bottom and slid clear plastic tubing over them and ran them into the existing pvc anchor locker drain tubes. I also gelcoated the interior of the box so it looks quite finished as well as installed a u-bolt for attaching the bitter end of the anchor line. This arrangement has resulted in a good size locker for the rope and a tight fit for my existing Danforth. I am planning on modifying the stock bow roller so I can leave the anchor on the pulpit. The cabin interior has gained some storage space since the new box doesn't protrude over the hull shelves. I cut the old bulkhead in the shape of a T to cover the new anchor locker and yet give access to this additional storage space. In the horizontal parts of the T I cut four holes to fit the butt end of my fishing rods and hung a mahogany rod rack off each hatch to accomodate my various rods. I am very pleased with the overall result of these modifications and feel much more secure in heavy seas; the anchor hatch cover could be ripped right off and no wave could flood the cabin! Good luck, let me know if you want any more info.

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