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Author Topic:   unbelieveable
outrage22 posted 05-21-2002 12:50 AM ET (US)   Profile for outrage22   Send Email to outrage22  
no wood backing on hull part of deck for screws that go around the perimeter of the big rectangle deck and smaller aft deck. Same with rail mounts and many other locations. does anyone have an explanation to why there are so many places on a whaler where wood backing is NECCESARY but they fail to make the easy, easy installation of wood blocks in the manufacturing proccess. now of corse you have 70% of whalers with either loose bow rails or some other major component. SAD. and easily avoidable. anyways i still love whalers. the best and quikest plan i came up with is to bore out the hole to say a little more than twice its original size, fill with epoxy mixed with maybe talc or cabosil let set and re-bore. anybody else maybe have a better teqnique for this problem?
lhg posted 05-21-2002 01:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Just break some round toothpicks in half, and put one or two in the hole, thick end in first. Put screw back in and it should hold quite well.
OutrageMan posted 05-21-2002 07:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
I prefer to use putty epoxy. Fill the hole, let cure, and re-drill. Easy, clean and permanent.

Brian

JohnAz posted 05-21-2002 08:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for JohnAz  Send Email to JohnAz     
I fill the holes with a dowel and some 5 min epoxy and if it shows some marine tex tinted
JBCornwell posted 05-21-2002 12:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
The part I find unbelievable is that you don't find any backing in all of those places that both of my current Whalers and (I think) all of my past Whalers had backing. Refer to BW's wood (or whaleboard) locating diagrams.

Epoxy is too brittle to hold wood screws well and tooth picks are a poor bandaid. Just opinions, but based on personal experience in each case.

If your backing has failed a reliable, permanent fix is 1/2"x1/2" Whaleboard plugs, epoxied in, drilled and tapped for machine screws of appropriate size, and sealed with 5200.

Red sky at night. . .
JB :)

outrage22 posted 05-22-2002 12:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for outrage22  Send Email to outrage22     
Where can i find wood diagrams?

thanx

JimCha posted 05-22-2002 01:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for JimCha  Send Email to JimCha     
re the whaleboard plugs.

I managed to get some samples of whaleboard from the company and with my drill press and plug cutter tried to make some 1/2 inch plugs. No way. That stuff smoked and best I could do was cut part way through.
What is the secret? JimC.

JBCornwell posted 05-22-2002 08:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Hi, Jim.

Slow cutting, as though you were cutting metal is helpful. You could also lubricate the cut, but getting the oil off before epoxying would present a challenge. Be sure that your plug cutter has sufficient depth to penetrate 1/2".

Good luck.

Red sky at night. . .
JB :)

jmp posted 05-22-2002 10:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for jmp  Send Email to jmp     
From the richlite web site:

MILLING, ROUTING & MACHINING
Carbide cutters are recommended with steady feed rate. Smoke, or a burning odor indicates the need for a faster feed rate. A proper feed rate combined with sharp cutters will yield coarse sawdust. All milling, routing, and machining should be done dry.

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