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  Repairing screw hole in interior wall of hull

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Author Topic:   Repairing screw hole in interior wall of hull
DJS posted 05-28-2002 10:38 AM ET (US)   Profile for DJS   Send Email to DJS  
I have a 1987 22 Outrage and need to repair a hole in the inside wall that I need to repair and need advice. The fuel filter/water seperator on this hull is mounted on the starboard side in the curve where the side meets the transom. The previous owner mounted the filter with 1/4 inch lag screws. The filter mounting bracket is flat, but it was mounted in the curve. It appears that some sort of sealer (maybe 4200 or 5200, possible Marine Tex) was placed on the outside of the fiberglass. However, it did very little good because the flat surface could not be tightened down to the curved surface of the hull interior. The other day I changed the filter and had a hard time getting it to unscrew. All the pressure I had to apply to the filter cartridge caused the base to break loose. The holes where the screws go in are much bigger that the 1/4 inch lag screw, and I thing the only thing holding the filter base on was the material used to bed it. AS far as I can tell there is not any wood, or foam, where the screws were placed. The only thing holding it all was a thin wall of fiberglass. How can I repair these holes and, at the same time, make them substantial enough to withstand the rigors of removing the cartridge?

Tanks, David

triblet posted 05-28-2002 10:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
You can hog out the foam behind and fill the
cavity with a hockey-puck-sized plug of
thickened epoxy. You can get empty caulk
tubes at West or TAP Plastics to squirt it
in with.

This has been discussed here several times,
usually in reference to swimsteps.

Chuck

DJS posted 05-31-2002 04:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for DJS  Send Email to DJS     
Chuck, I pulled up the last two years of this forum, used the FIND feature in Internet Explorer, used the word "swimsteps" as the word to find, and it did not find any references to "swimsteps.

Also, as stated in my original message, there is not any foam behind the fiberglass wall, so I can't " hog out the foam behind and fill the cavity with epoxy.

On this website I have read that other people have mounted their fuel filter/water separator in this same area and I thought someone that has done this might give me some insight into how they mounted theirs.

I appreciate your effort and I think you always make good contributions to this website.

David

Tom W Clark posted 05-31-2002 07:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
David,

I think you were on the right track. You might also try "swimstep", "swim step", "swim steps", "swim platform" and "stern platform" or perhaps more effectively just use "swim" or "platform" as your key words.

Actually, don't bother. Let's just tell you about it here. I can recall the hockey puck idea being discussed on the FORUM many times as Chuck describes. I know Don McIntyre has talked about in reference to mounting or remounting a console to the floor of a Whaler.

The idea is to take (or make) a tool like a bent nail or an Allen wrench and chuck it into a drill motor. Feed the bend end into your screw hole and let the "tool" spin in the foam thus clearing away what amounts to a cylindrical area of foam.

Into this shallow cylindrical area epoxy is then introduced thus forming what could be described as a "hockey puck" of solid epoxy. This epoxy can then be drilled and tapped for a machine screw providing a good grip for the fastener as well as needed backing behind the fiberglass skin. This would be a good method for repairing your fuel filter mounting.

On my Outrage I had the fuel filter mounted on the flat portion further forward of where you have yours. In the curved area of the corner I had my battery selector switch. The base of it was scribed to fit the curve.

The scribing was done with a belt sander and was quite easy to do because the base is made of plastic. You could scribe the base of your fuel filter but it would be much more work as I suspect it is made of aluminum.

I really donít like the idea of a flat piece of hardware spanning across a concave surface like yours for the very reasons you have experienced.

Another idea would be to scribe a piece of wood or starboard to the shape of the curve and mount the fuel filter to that. This would have the added benefit of covering any damage that may be visible now.

reelescape1 posted 05-31-2002 09:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for reelescape1  Send Email to reelescape1     
DJS, I also have a 22' OR....mine is also mounted on the starboard side but above the teak door covering the self bailing tube, just foward of the splash-well seperation.

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