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Author Topic:   Fuel Fill Hose Replacement Problems
tlynch posted 06-02-2002 05:25 PM ET (US)   Profile for tlynch   Send Email to tlynch  
Fellows,

I drew this up for reference:
Hyperlink

I bought a new 1.5-inch ID fuel hose for my 1985 18-Outrage to replace the existing one. I am finding it IMPOSSIBLE to get the new hose back onto the tank end.

The hose hardly fits through the tunnel that leads up to the tank fitting.

The hose does not fit through the tunnel without becoming misshaped.

The end of the tank fitting extends partly beyond the round deckplate opening.

The top of the tank fitting is nearly even with the bottom of the main floor board, requiring the tube to bent up and at the last second, but it is impossible to get at the tube because it is in the tunnel.

I have tube lube but I cant even get the hose lined up.

The tank fitting is more than long enough and if I cut it back an inch I would have a much easier time getting everything lined up, but the tank is full and I dont think that I can cut the tube without risking a spark - KA-BOOM, that would be the end of the problem, and the end of the boat too ;)

Is my tank original? I have a feeling that the old hose was put on while the floor was removed. I really do not want to remove the floor.

Are new fuel hoses a thicker OD than the old ones?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Todd Lynch

jimh posted 06-02-2002 06:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
You are probably right: in the original installation the fill line hose was fitted to the tank long before the floor panel was put in place.

And of course you are reluctant to apply much heat to these components to make them more pliable because of the threat of explosion.

In this case my best suggestion would be to fashion some sort of temporary fixture that will help you exert more pull on the hose. Enlist the help of another pair of hands to assist in guiding the tubing, then just concentrate on how much better you will feel if you get this to go on without having to take the floor up. That might do it.

--jimh

jimh posted 06-02-2002 06:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Another suggestion which you are welcome to discard:

If you have plenty of hose length, you could resort to cutting a small slit into the hose to help get it started onto the tank fitting. Once in place you could cut off that portion of the hose, although that could be a chore in itself.

Steve Leone posted 06-03-2002 12:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
you might make the diameter a little larger before you attempt to install it on the tank end. you can do this outside of the boat with heat and a larger diameter piece of stock (i.e.: lead pipe, large wood dowell, etc.). grease it with teflon grease. good luck, steve out. ps don`t forget to ground the filler neck if you have disconnected it, steve out.
tlynch posted 06-03-2002 06:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for tlynch  Send Email to tlynch     
Thanks guys, I will try your suggestions out next weekend and get back to you.

Are all 18's like this? Others have done this without a problem, I was thinking maybe my tank had been replaced.

Thanks,
Todd

alkar posted 02-22-2003 09:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     
Anybody know how this turned out?
tlynch posted 02-24-2003 01:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for tlynch  Send Email to tlynch     
With lots of effort I was able to get the hose over the fitting. My brother pushed and rotated one end of the hose while I grabbed the hose with a thin pair of pliers and pulled and rotated. The pliers slightly stretched out the hose but I was careful not to severly damage the hose.

I was not able to get the hose on as far as the original hose, but I was still able to get both hose clamps around the hose.

I would not suggest this repair unless it is clear that the hose need to be repaired, as it was difficult.

It was also difficult to get the tank vent hose routed under the floorboard, this is due to new hose being of a larger outer diameter than the old hose.

Todd

Buckda posted 10-19-2005 05:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
Todd -

Do you remember the part number for the vent hose?

(and the length?)

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm doing this replacement on my 18. I have the part number for the filler hose from another thread (goodyear part #58524, for 1.5 inch steel wire tubing).

I'm also replacing the vent hose and thought you might have that information.

Dave

Buckda posted 10-19-2005 05:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
Apologies for digging up an old thread. Upon further research with the search engine, I found the dimensions, (though not a part number). The vent hose is 5/8 inch I.D. Unaflex USCG approved type A1.

Regards,

Dave

ratherwhalering posted 10-20-2005 02:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Dave, keep me in the loop, if you would be so kind. Brian and I ane going to undertake this project in the next few weeks.

Thanks!

--Rob--

Buckda posted 10-20-2005 03:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
No problem Rob, but be forewarned, I have the fuel tank cover removed on my 18, so this is likely to be a much easier job on my end than threading these through underneath a sealed cover.

I'll take pictures though, so you can see what is going on under your cover.

Dave

andygere posted 10-20-2005 04:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
I replaced the fuel supply hoses on my 1989 Outrage 22 Cuddy last spring, and despite the smaller hose size, that job was a real challenge. It was made somewhat easier by having the aft floor panel removed (the one over the baitwell, not the fuel tank cover). Getting leverage on the hoses through the Beckson plate was very difficult, and I ended up drilling out the rivets on the outer ring of the plate to get an extra 1/2 inch of working space. To get the hoses onto the barb fittings, I heated the hose ends in some boiling water, and kept them hot right up until installation in a thermos filled with hot water. I also went through a few iterations of stretching the hose ends by first heating them up, and then forcing a lubricated steel rod with a tapered end into the hose. Rotating the hose as it is advanced onto the fitting is also a good technique which really helped a lot. After struggling for a few hours with this task, I did a very careful inspection of the fuel fill hoses, and found them to be in decent shape and not in immediate need of replacement. I suspect that the fill and vent hoses will last longer than the supply hoses since they are not continuously in contact with gasoline.
Buckda posted 10-20-2005 04:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
Agreed -
I replaced my supply hoses last winter, with the fuel tank cover on. It wasn't as difficult of a job as I was concerned about, and the hose wasn't in bad shape, but I was installing a fuel/water separator/filter and the timing was right.

At first glance, my fill hose does not appear to need replacement; however, at roughly $35 for both hoses necessary to replace the filler and vent lines, it is inexpensive insurance to do it now, and not have to worry about doing it for another 20 years.

I would suspect that most 20-year old Whalers, regardless of condition, are due for replacement of many rubber and plastic components.

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