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Author Topic:   Teak bilge cover for '83 Outrage 18
crashq posted 06-04-2002 04:42 PM ET (US)   Profile for crashq   Send Email to crashq  
Does anyone have a diagram for the size of the wood bilge sump cover for an '83 Outrage 18? Mine seems to have disappeared while on the highway. I have purchased a piece of Mahogany plywood to replace it, and would like to match it as closely as possible in size. Thanks.
tlynch posted 06-04-2002 10:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for tlynch  Send Email to tlynch     
I would like this information too as mine is missing also.

Todd Lynch

Tom W Clark posted 06-05-2002 01:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     

The pattern is in your driveway. Use the boat as your pattern.

I did this a couple of times with my 18 Outrage. First time because the original was totally beat and the second time because the thing flew overboard during some ambitious wave hopping.

I remember the first one I made using the original as a pattern and it did not fit as well as it could so I made another that fit perfectly.

The shape is not a simple rectangle with one radiused corner (though close). It may not even be exactly the same from boat to boat as hulls can have quite a bit of variation between them. While the rear edge and port edge were straight, the starboard edge and front edge were slightly curved.

What I recommend is for you to take a piece of cardboard, (single ply if you have it but corrugated will work too) and rough out the shape as a rectangle. Hold it in place and mark where it needs to be trimmed. Trim, fit, repeat until you've got it just the way you want it. We're talking like five or ten minutes of work so don't get bummed out if it doesn't come out perfect the first time and have to start over

Once you've got a cardboard pattern you can then just trace that outline on your plywood and cut it out with the saw of your choice.

Ease the edges so the veneers don't peel or chip but try not to feather the edge of the top veneer too much as you will go through it pretty quick.

You might do what I should have done and just make two of them at once and keep the second as a spare for when the time comes in the future that you need one.

hauptjm posted 06-05-2002 09:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for hauptjm    

Great advice on creating the pattern. I've used that method so many times on so many projects I can't count them all. I did replace my totally worn out cover two years ago, but instead used solid 3/8 teak. I went back and forth on the decision, but decided that there wasn't enough unsupported length that would make the hatch weak. As well, the span is so small, the wood is very stable from warping. Mine is a two piece system and hinged. I've had some pretty big boys step on it, and it hasn't given a bit. With a little oil when the other teak needs it, it always look good as well.
crashq posted 06-05-2002 04:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for crashq  Send Email to crashq     
Thanks. I had considered that method. The only thing I was really concerned about was the location of the finger hole. Since mine went over the side (on the highway) I don't have any idea where the hole was; other than near the edge. Do you have a rough location for the hole?

hauptjm posted 06-05-2002 04:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for hauptjm    
Centered on the foreward "side", roughly 1 1/2 inches from the edge, 1" in diameter. Is yours hinged?
Tom W Clark posted 06-05-2002 08:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
The original did have a 1" finger hole. When I made mine I stopped and asked myself "why on earth does this cover need a finger hole?"

The answer is: It doesn't because the cover does not cover the entire sump area in that boat. There is about three inches of open space which allows the cables, hoses and wiring to exit. The finger hole is completely pointless; you just grab the rear edge instead.

The Outrage 22 and others has a different configuration with a two piece cover and hinges so these comments apply to the Outrage 18 only.

hauptjm posted 06-06-2002 09:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for hauptjm    

I'm working on memory here so I'm probably off, but is there a difference in the shape from a traditional notched transom and the Whalerdrive closed transom? I have the 18OR Whalerdrive version, and my hatch was original and hinged. The rear third is screwed down with a crescent cut out for the cables and bilge hose and the forward 2/3's opens. In fact I do need the hole. I'm curious if Whaler just made them all the same, and only hinged some models.

crashq posted 06-06-2002 04:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for crashq  Send Email to crashq     
Mine is/was not hinged. It was the single piece version. No whaler drive on the 18 either, obviously.

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