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Author Topic:   69 Nausett Transom Repair Advice

gansett posted 06-04-2002 07:44 PM ET (US)
The only damage to my Nausett is at the top of the transom where the back layers of glass have separated from the blue interior. One side is open to the weather, the other has some clear resin fill. Glass is hard, dry, will not move. Should I simply fill the void and not try to bring the glass back together? See: http://www.kinnakeetadventures.com/DCP00701.jpg for "bad side" and http://www.kinnakeetadventures.com/DCP00703.jpg for "better side"
Thanks, cj
Ed Z posted 06-05-2002 11:15 AM ET (US)

Wow, this looks like quite a bit of separation (both sides)... I would first do a little checking on the condition of the wood... I would drill a few small holes down into the crack until I hit wood and then inspect the drilled out wood for wetness and/or rot... If the wood is is relitivley good shape, I would then get about 6 oz of CA in the thin and medium thicknesses... Have a strong board and some clamps handy to apply right after soaking the crack with the CA's (used the thin first and let it wick into the wood, then the medium over that)... Then within a minute or so, clamp the fibergalss back inplace (wrap the clamping board with Saran wrap to prevent it from being glued to the boat)... The CA will plastisize the wood (rotted or not) and also glued the fiberglass back together too... Prior to unclamping the board run a small bead of the thin CA down the old crack seam and look for wicking... If so then continue adding glue to the areas that wick... If needed use the medium CA to fill any of the larger areas that wick (a shot of the CA kicker (accelerant) will make the glue dry very fast and seal the larger cracks)... Let this set (clamped) for 24 hours to obtain the full cure of the glue... You can sand the CA that may still be left on the outside of the crack (sands much like fiberglass)... Having said all this, bear in mind I am not a structural engineer, but I use methods like this to support 9 G's in aircraft construction (RC models)...
gansett posted 06-06-2002 07:18 PM ET (US)
If CA will plastisize the wood, then it might do the trick. The whole thing is very dry, stiff and solid. I can't move it with a clamp right now. I either need to soften up in the core, or remove some material. The good news is the rest of the hull is perfect and original! Thanks.

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Author	Topic: 69 Nausett Transom Repair Advice
gansett	posted 06-04-2002 07:44 PM ET (US) The only damage to my Nausett is at the top of the transom where the back layers of glass have separated from the blue interior. One side is open to the weather, the other has some clear resin fill. Glass is hard, dry, will not move. Should I simply fill the void and not try to bring the glass back together? See: http://www.kinnakeetadventures.com/DCP00701.jpg for "bad side" and http://www.kinnakeetadventures.com/DCP00703.jpg for "better side" Thanks, cj
Ed Z	posted 06-05-2002 11:15 AM ET (US) Wow, this looks like quite a bit of separation (both sides)... I would first do a little checking on the condition of the wood... I would drill a few small holes down into the crack until I hit wood and then inspect the drilled out wood for wetness and/or rot... If the wood is is relitivley good shape, I would then get about 6 oz of CA in the thin and medium thicknesses... Have a strong board and some clamps handy to apply right after soaking the crack with the CA's (used the thin first and let it wick into the wood, then the medium over that)... Then within a minute or so, clamp the fibergalss back inplace (wrap the clamping board with Saran wrap to prevent it from being glued to the boat)... The CA will plastisize the wood (rotted or not) and also glued the fiberglass back together too... Prior to unclamping the board run a small bead of the thin CA down the old crack seam and look for wicking... If so then continue adding glue to the areas that wick... If needed use the medium CA to fill any of the larger areas that wick (a shot of the CA kicker (accelerant) will make the glue dry very fast and seal the larger cracks)... Let this set (clamped) for 24 hours to obtain the full cure of the glue... You can sand the CA that may still be left on the outside of the crack (sands much like fiberglass)... Having said all this, bear in mind I am not a structural engineer, but I use methods like this to support 9 G's in aircraft construction (RC models)...
gansett	posted 06-06-2002 07:18 PM ET (US) If CA will plastisize the wood, then it might do the trick. The whole thing is very dry, stiff and solid. I can't move it with a clamp right now. I either need to soften up in the core, or remove some material. The good news is the rest of the hull is perfect and original! Thanks.