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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: frozen prop|
posted 06-05-2002 11:04 PM ET (US)
My prop on my 87 V4 90 Evinrude to completely frozen to the shaft. I modified an auto puller but the only movement I get is about one inch of stretch in the rubber hub. Is heat the only way to release the prop from the hub in order for me to cut off the remaining hub? Don't want to damage anything. Should the heat source be merely a Bernz-O=Matic torch of will burning out the vulcanized rubber require the heat of an acetylene torch? An at wits end!
|Tom W Clark||
posted 06-05-2002 11:23 PM ET (US)
Hold on there. There's another technique you should try first: penetrating oil.
Apply some penetrating oil and see if that will loosen things up. You could try WD-40, Liquid Wrench or some other common penetrating oil or you can try what I have found to be quite a bit better, Aero Kroil made by Kano Laboratories, Nashville TN. This stuff works wonders. I get mine locally here in Seattle from Tacoma Screw Products. Try a Google search to find a vendor.
The key with penetrating oil is TIME. Give it time to work. I would try to saturate the prop shaft to prop area at both ends as much as possible wit this stuff and allow it to sit overnight. If this doesn't work apply again and let it sit for two days.
A blow to the prop with a hammer may help soften it up in between attempts to pull it with the puller and repeated applications of oil.
Given enough time this WILL work for you.
posted 06-06-2002 01:29 AM ET (US)
tom, i have never had much luck with penetrating oil on a frozen prop. although i have never tried aero kroil. my advice to you litnin is to burn it off. a benzomatic won`t do it. you must use a large propane torch or an oxy/acet. unit. wear a respirator mask. this is a nasty job. heat the mother up using the torch around the inside of the hub. you are probably going to have to re-seal the lower if you need to really cook it. when its jamming you need to smack it off with a large rubber mallet, hitting the base of the blades alternately. be carefull and stay out of the way, sometimes they come off REAL quick. after that let the thing cool down. then take a chisel (a sharp one you don`t like) and cut the rubber bushing away. should be left with the sleeve. cut it away diagonally with a coal chisel. wear rubber gloves. remember, wear that respirator!!! steve out.
posted 06-06-2002 05:56 AM ET (US)
Thank you for the replies. I tried penetrating oil for three days and would come home a couple of times a day and give it a few smacks with a hammer and a 2 x 4, no movement. The shaft to the hub appears very rusty and looks as if it has slipped somewhat on the splines. Is that possible? Prop is an OMC stainless and there is no apparent room to work with a chisel to cut out the rubber. I messed around a few minutes with the bernzomatic and just stunk up the garage. It ain't comin the easy way!
posted 06-06-2002 07:29 AM ET (US)
I second the Kroil. That stuff has worked where other oils have failed. Now its my first choice when I need to loosen "frozen" parts. It's hard to find though...
posted 06-06-2002 01:29 PM ET (US)
This post reminds me: Didn't I hear somewhere that if you leave the nut slightly loose, the slippage 1/16th of an inch or so forward and back on the shaft will keep the prop free on the shaft?
Realistically, the thrust of the prop is on the thrust washers, and not the nut jammed down tight on the insert. The only time thrust goes toward the nut is in reverse, and the cotter pin keeps it from removing itself.
I'll have to see what the 1985 OMC Service manual recommends.
posted 06-06-2002 01:48 PM ET (US)
I bought a brass hammer years ago for just that/this reason: I know I'll get the maximum amount of 'shock' without buggering up the threads (as long as you hit it straight on). Mind you I still won't wail on it but, in my opinion, using wood as a thread- protector lessens the effectiveness of what you are trying to do. Brass drift pins or the like will work just as well.
posted 06-06-2002 03:38 PM ET (US)
Be careful if you use a torch on it. You don't want to burn up the seals in the lower unit. I have the same problem with my 150 Merc. Damaged aluminum prop is frozen on and a nice SS prop is sitting in the shed. I'm just going to cut it down to the hub with a sawzall in three pieces and throw it away. Cut off the rubber and then dremel two cuts in the sleeve. Doing it this way should provide the least amount of severe impact to the lower unit. I've tried various penetrating oils, applying them every day for a week. Nothing. Even with the aid of a puller it won't pop off. Once it's off, I'lll just buy a used aluminum prop for a spare.
Good luck. I know how frustrating this is.
posted 06-10-2002 08:33 PM ET (US)
Well, I finally got the prop off. Here's how I finally removed it after several days of penetrating oil and heartache. As I stated earlier, the puller only stretched the rubber hub so I took a Sawzall and cut the three webs on the stainless prop that attached it to the hub. That was a job in itself as it was very tough and I used a few bi-metal blades. I was left with the hub which allowed me to place my puller behind the thrust washer. I used a bar clamp to tighten the two arms of the puller against the hub to give it a tighter purchase. I then used my air wrench on the lowest setting and slowly moved up the torque on it until it finally pulled it off! The advantage of using the air wrench allowed me to remove it without jamming the flyweel to keep the shaft from turning. The removed prop and shaft were so rusty and I could see that the penetrating oil never would have gotten down that far on the shaft to break it free.
I was happy to remove it without having to resort to heat and potentially cooking the seals.
Ruined a nice stainless prop in the deal but I was happy not to destroy anything else.
Thanks again for all of the advice. Went to the Outer Banks this past weekend at it ran like a dream.
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