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Author Topic:   Reference Article: On-Deck Fuel Tanks
jimh posted 06-11-2002 12:41 PM ET (US)   Profile for jimh   Send Email to jimh  
This message thread is for comments or questions related to the Reference Article which discusses the installation of on-deck fuel tanks in the cockpit of a 17-Montauk. The article was written by Robert Schmidt.
jimh posted 06-11-2002 06:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Added pricing info for more PATE models.
DaveIsaacs posted 06-11-2002 06:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for DaveIsaacs  Send Email to DaveIsaacs     
Just thought I'd mention that I installed my PATE C27 tank so that the gas cap is toward the bow.
The othe rway, the cap would have been too far under the seat and would have required me to "relocate" the hole in the deck for the fuel line (in order to move the tank further aft).


DaveIsaacs posted 06-11-2002 06:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for DaveIsaacs  Send Email to DaveIsaacs     
Sorry, I forgot to mention I have a 1979 Montauk
(By the way, I don't think I had original deck pads holding my two 12gal plastic tanks; they were not attached with anything but adhesive that was long past its prime.
Then again, I did not find any holes in the deck so maybe there were no rivets...?)
andygere posted 06-11-2002 07:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
The deck pads in my '79 Montauk are held in with SS screws, but may have been added by the original owner or dealer. Do you have any problems with hitting your heels on the tank when you drive the boat? I like the Pate tanks, but I don't like the idea of drilling a hole in my deck and making the already small fishing area behind the RPS any smaller. For about the same money, I can get a pair of the aluminum Mirax tanks, also a nice solution.
Tom W Clark posted 06-11-2002 09:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
First of all let me say that I always welcome a new reference article. I believe this library of articles to be of great value for those researching Classic Whalers. But having said that I need to nit pick a few things.

The tanks pictured in the first photograph are not OMC tanks. OMC never built 12 gallon tanks for the Whaler or anybody else for that matter. Three manufacturers built steel 12 gallon tanks specifically for Boston Whalers. Tempo, Mirax and one other I cannot remember the name of.

My interpretation of the Coast Guard definition of portable vs. permanently installed tanks is somewhat different than jimh's. The Coast Guard defines a permanent tank as:

Fuel tanks secured so they cannot be moved in case of fire or other emergency are considered permanently installed. There are no gallon capacity limits to determine if a fuel tank is portable. If the weight of a fuel tank is such that persons on board cannot move it, the Coast Guard considers it permanently installed.

Regarding the Pate tank itself, I may be missing something here but why is it considered desirable to have one large tank?

I think twin 12 gallon tanks a much more satisfactory arrangement. These tanks can be had in aluminum which I consider to be safer, more reliable and durable in the long run.

They can be filled and consumed separately thus allowing fuel load to be managed with a higher safety factor (contamination in one tank of gas wonít necessarily be in the other) as well as providing lateral ballast adjustment (if the boat chronically lists to port then you can be in the habit of draining the port tank first.)

Twin tanks allows the fuel hose and the hawse hole to be under the RPS where it belongs.

Filling the tanks is much easier as the tank can be pulled aft to be filled and then put back in place. Heck, the tank can be put in your car or truck and driven to the gas station thus avoiding high gas dock prices.

And you donít have to have the things hanging out from under the RPS where they will be interfering with your legs and/or heels if your sitting facing backwards.

dgp posted 06-12-2002 01:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for dgp  Send Email to dgp     
The old steel 12 gallon Mirax tanks are now made of aluminum and built by KSH Marine. They fit within the tank trays and have 2" radius corners. Price: $210 each. According to Brian, the owner, the hot setup for aluminum tanks these days, especially those under-deck, is to have them coated with the spray-on bed liners. Since this coating is impervious to fuel, it acts like a large condom to contain any leaks.
lhg posted 06-12-2002 03:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I think the article is a great addition to this site, as there are continual questions along this line. It should also be noted that this same fuel system was even recommended by Dougherty as additional fuel capacity and range for the Outrage boats when fitted with the RPS, especially for the 18 & 22 Outrages.

I believe that in all photos, the primer bulb is at the wrong end of the line. Most engine manufacturers rig their gas lines with the bulb about 18" from the engine end, cleaning up the clutter at the tank(s).

I think regarding the one tank-two tank issue there are pro's and con's of each. It really depends on how an owner uses his boat, # of engines, and his perception of safety. The large single does offer a couple of gallons additional capacity, and absence of switching hoses and 1st tank stall out at EXACTLY the wrong time. This happened to me more than once with my Nauset.

I recently purchased a new reserve tank system for my boats, and opted for the twin 13 gallon Tempos, mainly because of the twin engine installations. The $40 Bass Pro price is a great deal. For pre-mixers this tank is great, since 1 qt of oil takes 12 1/2 gallons
of gas, for a total of 12 3/4 gallons, a perfect fit, assuming a qt of gas might be left in the bottom unuseable.

Moeller is another brand of plastic tanks for this RPS fuel system, and dimensioned for the Whalers, 13-17's. All of their tanks work with the boats, except for the dual 13 gallon Montauk models. They are a wierd shape, and I would not recommend that particualr model.

Salmon Tub posted 06-12-2002 04:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Salmon Tub  Send Email to Salmon Tub     
I just don't get it at all. What are there only three Montauk owners in this world and thus not a single one of these plastics companies does not see the cost effectiveness for molding an exact fitting tank? The perfect tank would have the following:

If twins, they would have a base that fit perfectly within the pads without any play (I would gladly give up that 1/4" of capacity for a perfect fit. If a single tank then it could have a route molded in for the fuel line that would run from the fitting around to the bottom so as to neatly route the line without extra slack and hose to trip on. That area could have a rounded edge so as not to kink the hose. Also, I see no reason that they need to make the tanks so high for capacity. The pads are approximately 14 x 20 inches so mold a tank that has a base with twin pads that fit perfectly into the OEM rubber pads, and then the tank goes out sideways and front and back to the max allowed between the legs of the RPS. Then it would be low enough to fill and could still have enough capacity. IE: base of tank 14 x 20, remainder of tank flairs out to 16 x 22 inches approximately 3/4" above bottom. The Montauk seems to be the most finicky when it comes to fuel tank fit, so they should base their dimensions on it. Otherwise, for which exact make and model boat are they taking their dimensions from as a base for fit?

I think that if someone came up with just a super slick tank or tanks that did the job, with 24+ gal. capacity, then most of us would not mind paying a bit of a premium for them. The fuel tank setup in my Montauk has always been a pet peeve of mine, simply because it is not perfect. And I have yet to see a setup that I could call perfect, simply because there are not tanks out there made to fit perfectly. The price for those Pate tanks is way to high for a tank that does not achieve perfect drop in fit. Having to modify the boat should not be required. Also, I would hate to see what a nice fat sturgeon, freshly dragged into the boat would do to the exposed fuel line if it ever started thrashing and slid in between the tank and line. I don't want to rag on you guys that installed those tanks, and Rob obviously put in a lot of work and his setup is probably one of the slickest I have seen for a Pate, but still, I just don't get it, especially for the amount of money they want for their tanks.

P.S., LGH, why exactly does the Moeller 400 (I assume that is the model you reference) not fit, I was thinking of buying them.

ratherwhalering posted 06-12-2002 08:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Oops, my mistake, they are not OMC are correct!
Buying one tank, as opposed to two, was a really hard decision for me. Buying (and paying for) a Pate was even harder. There are a world of considerations with each tank, and each set-up. My set up is not perfect, but it does the job. If Pate offered two fiberglass tanks that fit the pads, I would have done it. I actually almost bought the Tempo 28. Ultimately, it was the matching color and 27 gallon capacity that swayed me. Would I do it again? You bet. Did I call Pate and sugguest a 24/27 with an bilge access "notch". Yep. Will they build it? Dunno.
BTW, I had a 22lb Halibut flop right in between the tank and gas line last week. The quick connect popped off, but it scratching the &%$# out of the tank. (I have moved the bulb) ST..did you witness that debacle?
Highwater posted 06-12-2002 09:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for Highwater    
lhg, do outboards tend to work better if the primer bulb is 18" from the engine, or is that location recommended just to remove clutter from around the tank?
Dick posted 06-12-2002 10:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
I installed the Tempo 28 gal tank in my 99 Montauk and it is a perfect fit.

#1 Take those worthless tank mats out and sell them to someone else.

#2 Yes I do have to disconnect the hose from the tank and slide it aft a bit for filling and back in when full. This is no problem even for me, a scrawney 65 year old.

#3 The tank is secured under the RPS with a heavy duty nylon QD strap around the tank and RPS leg assembly and has never moved when underway.

#4 I do only fill at my local gas station so this configuration may not work as well for those who do not trailer.

#5 As IHG commented with dual tanks you can run out at the wrong time. Never happend to me in a boat but did in an older pickup. I was passing a car and the tank went dry, scary moment or two untill I reached down and turned the tank selector.

Just my thoughts on a subject with many opinions.


jimh posted 06-13-2002 06:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The primer bulb location is mentioned in , "A Primer on Primer Bulbs" thread.
LFK posted 06-13-2002 09:00 AM ET (US)     Profile for LFK  Send Email to LFK     
I am concerned about the amount of weight in the back of the boat. I've got a new 2002 115 hp ficht (362lb) and am in the process of getting a stern seat (newport style) in my 73 Cohasset. Has anyone considered an above deck tank in front of the console? Under a built wooden framed seat it should work. I think it might ride better - anyone with thoughts?
Soho posted 06-13-2002 10:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for Soho  Send Email to Soho     
I have my 24 gallon tank in under the seat in the front of my console. I like it there as it seems to help the trim of the boat. My boat is not configured with an RPS or whaler console.



masbama posted 06-13-2002 11:00 AM ET (US)     Profile for masbama  Send Email to masbama     
I agree with Salmon Tub. I just bought two Tempo 12/13 gal. and the starboard side does not fit all the way due to the wood under the RPS. (I have a '77 Montauk). I bought low profile caps and I keep a bungee on it so it doesn't slide back. Some one could make this tank that fits in the mats and has the filler hole on the back end of the tank so it is able to fill without having the hole under the seat. Maybe not cost effective for the manufacturer though....
DaveIsaacs posted 06-13-2002 11:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for DaveIsaacs  Send Email to DaveIsaacs     
I didn't notice any holes in my deck when pulled up the tank pads. There were definitely no screws in them but it is always possible I overlooked some holes.

I don't really have a problem hitting my heels on the tank. It doesn't really extend that much beyond the front of the seat.
I have to actually insert the fuel nozzle at an angle.
The only problem I noticed is that I can't
really sit on the floor between the tank and the console when working on console wiring, etc. I can squeeze in their but anyone bigger than me (5'7", 160lbs) will probably not fit.

I will take some photos and post here. Give me a few days and I should get it done.


Taylor posted 06-13-2002 06:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
Great to have this collected together in an article. I was even pleased to see a little of my own writing included in the Mirax part. I'd also like to contribute pictures of my Mirax aluminum tanks, which I send in next week. I think pictures of all the different choices would be a good idea.

Dick, you can sell those 'worthless' tank mats to me. Mine are beat.

JDH posted 06-17-2002 02:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for JDH  Send Email to JDH     
Was the fitting used for the fuel line a generic part? How long is it, and how far down is the bilge tube at that point in the hull?

Does anyone know if my 1962 hull has an aluminum tube?

Eric posted 06-17-2002 10:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
I've got a 62 model 16 foot hull also. It looks like it's got an aluminum liner for the tunnel. I have an aluminum 20.3 gallon tank under the console, and I'm thinking of having a larger one built. I was quoted $6.50 per gallon for a custom tank built to my specs, with 35 more for the gauge. At that price, I can't see getting a plastic tank. The current tank is one of the only things that I re-used from the boat after I bought it. I think that it was new about 1986, and it's in great shape. It's 18x28 wide, and 10 high, if I have a 15 high in the same dimensions, I would get about 30 gallons.
whalerron posted 06-17-2002 11:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     

If you are having a problem finding those tank mats, there is a Boston Whaler dealer here in Baltimore that has a large stack of brand new ones. I just bought 2 for my boat after a very lengthy search for them.

- ron

whalerron posted 06-17-2002 11:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     

Could you email me those pictures? I was on the phone with Mirax today and I am ready to order the tanks but I wanted to see a picture of them first.

- ron

ratherwhalering posted 06-18-2002 01:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
The fitting was a "thru Hull" Perkos fitting. I got it at Wests. I believe it was 1.25" diameter, and about a 2" long threaded stem. I still have the core of the hole I drilled, I'll take a pic next week and send it. As I remember, the entire core/plug was about 1.5" to 2", including gel coat, fiberglass, plywood, foam, and a thin section of the aluminum bilge tube.
Chesapeake posted 06-18-2002 05:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Eric: I also have a smirkless 16'. Question: How did you deal with the access hole under the console. What did you do to prevent the tank from either covering up part of the hole or pinching the wires, fuel line and steering cable.

Thought about a single large tank, but was shy about doing it for the above reasons.


Chesapeake posted 06-18-2002 05:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Eric: I also have a smirkless 16'. Question: How did you deal with the access hole under the console. What did you do to prevent the tank from either covering up part of the hole or pinching the wires, fuel line and steering cable.

Thought about a single large tank, but was shy about doing it for the above reasons.


Taylor posted 06-18-2002 08:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
Whalerron, my tanks are from 1988, and I'm not sure if they are the same as the new ones or not, it might not be fair either way to judge based on the older product. I've already emailed Brian at Mirax to ask them for some photos of his current work, which I'm going to send to Jim for inclusion.
JDH posted 06-19-2002 01:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for JDH  Send Email to JDH     

Did you use a holesaw to cut the plug? I have a good selection (I build roll cages and stuff for 4x4s for fun) but none of the smaller diameter hole saws can cut much more than 1.750 inches.

Great info, and my next mod!

Eric posted 06-19-2002 02:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
Chesapeake: my tank sits behind the access hole to the tunnel. I installed a non-original console, so I could shift the console and tank to the stern far enough to get access.
ratherwhalering posted 06-19-2002 07:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
I used a 1.25" bit, inserted into a drill. I got it at the local hardware store. It looks like a hollow shank of tubing with teeth at one end, and a hole for a pilot bit in the other. The pilot bit slips into different diameter hole bits.
whalerdude posted 06-19-2002 10:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerdude  Send Email to whalerdude     
Jdh-don't cut a hole in your floor yet!

Please read my post titled 'Simple Pate Installation c27.

Chesapeake and I have figured out a better way to install the c27 with out having to put a thru-hull fitting through your floor.

JDH posted 06-20-2002 01:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for JDH  Send Email to JDH     

I don't think that the acces you have on your 91 is available on my hull. if you have any pics, it might help me. Shoot a couple to me if you have them.


DaveIsaacs posted 06-26-2002 11:16 AM ET (US)     Profile for DaveIsaacs  Send Email to DaveIsaacs     
Sorry for taking so long but here are the pics showing my Pate tank installed forward of the original hole for the fuel line.
Yes, there is less room to stand - this should give you an idea.


DS_SUNBIRD posted 07-17-2002 12:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for DS_SUNBIRD  Send Email to DS_SUNBIRD     
I feel as a USCGAUX Vessel Examiner with 12 years of doing VSCs (Vessel Safety Checks) in my experience, I may be able to explain why the "permanant" tanks are frowned on aboard WHALERs. With the tank sitting out in the open air (under the seat) ventilation is no problem, filling the tank in place is not the problem, as long as the tank is secured to the deck to prevent movement, no problem! The problem is that on the WHALER there is a "tunnel" that accomodates the fuel line(s) and engine control cables, this tunnel is below the deck level and so any fuel spilled may end up in this tunnel. This will be a fire hazard. If not for the tunnel, any fuel spills would flow out through the cockpit drains and overboard, not ideal(pollution-wise), but better than puddling in the "bilge". This was how it has been explained to me by the Vessel Exam Dept. of the USCGAUX, whether it makes sense or not , that is why we frown on the permanant tanks. Portable Tanks (correct that the USCG does not really have a gallon limit on them) could also spill into that tunnel, while in use, but my guess is that we are more concerned about fuel that spills during fueling.
Chesapeake posted 07-18-2002 07:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     

Am interested in your custom built tanks. Having a Nauset, including the original style two part console, I can't really fit a Pate tank in becuase it would risk pinching the hoses and rigging that come up from the tunnel. However, if the large single tank could be notched -- not unlike what "ratherwhalering" described for the Pate -- That might solve my problem.

Have you pursued further? I think a notched Pate 24 would also be pretty sweet in the old 16s. The only concern I would have is the vapor seeping up into the top level of console where all the wiring is...

Bigshot and Larry: You've both had the 16s, what about the vapor (particularly from a full Pate) leaking up into the upper console -- hazard or not??


adaco posted 08-23-2002 11:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for adaco  Send Email to adaco     
Whalerdude: Where do I find your post on the simple installation of the Pate C27?
jimh posted 08-23-2002 02:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I made two edit to the article:

--changed caption to remove reference to OMC; --changed paragraph about USCG and fuel tank regulations to delete reference to "7 gallons".

jimh posted 08-23-2002 02:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
whalerdude's reference to his posting is rather obscure. Perhaps he means this one:

I can't find anything that fits his description. As the younger generation likes to say, "go figure!"

Chap posted 08-23-2002 02:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chap  Send Email to Chap     
Printed it for a friend.
Here we go:


lhg posted 08-23-2002 02:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Bob - as a 15 year owner of a Nauset, I never noticed fuel vapor fumes in the console area.
I originally used twin Mercury 6 gallon tanks, then switched to the Tempo plastic 11.5 gallon models, specifically designed for these Whalers, which I recently sold to another Nauset owner. The successors to those Tempo tanks are the current 13 gallon models, which I would recommend. I believe they will fit if you get the Walmart vented caps for them.
jimh posted 08-23-2002 02:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I added to the Reference article a paragraph and a hyperlink to the ""Simple Pate Tank Installation Method-C27!!" thread. Thanks, Chap, for finding this reference; it sounds interesting.
adaco posted 08-27-2002 04:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for adaco  Send Email to adaco     
I am poised to drill into my bilge tunnel for my fuel line access as per your reference article and additional postings, but have a couple of additional questions before I start

1. Does your Perko thru hull fitting have four small notches on top (to use with a 1" or so wide file or similar to screw it in)? What tool did you use, knowing it was a tight fit and I don't want to get half-way and have the fitting end up sticking.

2. How deep was the core section you removed? Were you able to get right through to the tunnel on your first pass with the hole saw or did you cut through in stages. If the latter, do you break off a layer of material and then cut further. My reason for asking is that most hole saws are not deep enough to cut a hole up to 2" deep; the one I have certainly isn't. Thanks for the helpful info to date; glad I didn't simply plunge ahead on this previously!

ratherwhalering posted 08-28-2002 04:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Hi. The perkos fitting had 2 notches, as I remember. I used a thick, flat wood file to screw it in. The file fit vertically into the two notches. I looked at West Marine last week for the fitting I used, but couldn't find it. Anyway, if you are unsure, try threading the thru hull in a bit, then back it out, add the sealeat, then thread it in again. The thru hull gets hotter as you thread, so don't stop turning until you are done. By the time I was down to the final turns, I had a 12" crescent wrench on the base of the file to turn the thru hull! I still have the plug from the hole saw at my dad's house. I recall that it was real close with the length of the hole saw. Maybe 1 to 1.5".
Good luck, and remember to find the dead center of that bilge tube before you drill!
whalerron posted 09-11-2002 12:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     
Taylor, I ordered a new tank today from KSH Marine (a.k.a. Mirax). Brian has shown great patience and understanding as we designed a tank that would fit under the wood seat in my 1969 Minot. Hopefully in 2 weeks I can let you know how it turned out.

- ron

skred posted 09-11-2002 03:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
When I owned my '91 Montauk, I kept the 2 plastic 6-gal. tanks and mats. To eliminate the frustration of running dry and having t switch at often inopportune times, I bought a brass T-valve fitting, and attached it to the underside of the RPS at the front edge. When the engine stuttered, I reached down and flipped the lever to the second tank, and continued on my way. Also had a remote version of this valve on a runabout years ago. Had a simple "manual choke" type control lever that ran back to a 2-way tee valve in the stern compartment.
The advantage of these setups was that I could still pull the tanks out and carry them to get 'em filled, thus avoiding the 50-75% dockside markup on fuel.
Taylor posted 09-11-2002 03:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
Thanks for the update Whalerron. I owe Brian a call back for some more information on the tanks, which I know I'm going to get to any day now. Let us know how your tanks look when you get them.
adaco posted 09-15-2002 06:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for adaco  Send Email to adaco     
Before drilling into the centerline tunnel of my Standard to "Montauk" conversion, could someone describe to me the feul line access hole on a Montauk. Is it moulded into the hull like the bige area hole or is it actually cut out with that small flange screwed over the hole? If drilled out, how is the inside of the cutout finished in order to prevent any water splashing into the actual hull?
Tigger Too posted 05-05-2003 10:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tigger Too  Send Email to Tigger Too     
I have just discovered this forum ... fantastic. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a source of the OEM tank mats. My 17'1988 Newport has, what I now know from the pictures, to be a Pate 24. The mats have disintegrated and I'd like to replace them (or use anything that works as well or better.) Would my local dealer have these? Extra points if I can get it in Canada, but willing to order from US. Thanks in advance for any help.
jimh posted 05-05-2003 10:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
My recollection of the several discussions previously conducted on the topic of gas tank mats is that you could only get them from a Boston Whaler dealer.

I don't know if they are still available.

ratherwhalering posted 06-03-2003 02:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
I spoke with the folks at Pate, again, asking that they modify the c27 and/or c24 to accomodate a fuel line to the hawse pipe (bilge access hole under the RPS). I sugguested adding 1/2" (verticle) to the lip that runs around the tank, with a notch in the rear, below the sight tube, that would accomodate a 5/8" gas line. I was told that due to the 2 part manufacturing they could not do this. Apparently, the actual tank is "hung" inside an exterior shell, which rests on the deck. We discusses resting the tank on a 1/2" starboard base frame, with a hole in the frame instead of the tank shell. I was told that since the tank's belly does not actually rest on the floor of the boat, the tank could be raised slightly, in this manner. It would be interesting to see if this would work.
PSW posted 06-03-2003 06:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for PSW  Send Email to PSW     
I think it would be easier to just drill a new hole put a through fitting with 5200 and then take the plastic peice out of the existing hole and 5200 that hole so the foam is not exposed. If I ever get my pictures onto the site I will show some pics.


jimh posted 04-06-2004 09:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Added picture of a Pate fuel tank molded in translucent red, apparently a fairly common accessory on Boston Whaler boats. Thanks to Christopher Hendrix for the digital image.

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